UKC

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 WARNING - Currently Eagles are still prospecting and may use the crag so please avoid climbing on Creag Ghlas until further notice. I will update once I get the all clear from the raptor group. Thanks Martin 25/03/25

The Crag may have restrictions during nesting period each year(early February to late July)if schedule one birds in residence. Depending on weather when surveyors go out to check it is not always possible to verify a nesting attempt easily so if you do notice or disturb raptors on the crag please let myself or Mountaineering Scotland know as soon as possible and nothing has been posted on either this site or the Mountaineering Scotland site. Check Mountaineering Scotland website for more details.

*Remember that any disturbance of protected species can constitute reckless disturbance even if you didn't know it was there and can still therefore be prosecuted so be careful and back off at first signs of any protected bird species being disturbed and inform Mountaineering Scotland to update their website to help inform others. Local raptor study group do monitor known crags including climbing crags.

80m, 2 pitches. Climbs crack line on right facing wall to the right of Toad Hall. Normally second pitch not climbed. Pitch 1 50 metres. Avoid the crag if big bird breeding. Both pitches cleaned Oct 2012, in-situ ab still good.

Bob Brown, John Mckenzie & G Cullen 30/Oct/1993.

Ticklists

Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice , Inverness and Moray Rock , 3 and 4 star E2 5b routes in Scotland , Ultimate Scottish Trad Ticklist E1 to E5 , The must dos very soon

Feedback

User Date Notes
finc00 7 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Hanging spike belay is no more. Best to continue up onto the sloping ledge to belay from a crack, probably 55m, scramble off from here. Theres a possible abseil from a spike down and left of the ledge, however needs tat as our ropes refused to pull from round the block.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Hanging spike belay is no more. Best to continue up onto the sloping ledge to belay from a crack, probably 55m, scramble off from here. Theres a possible abseil from a spike down and left of the ledge, however needs tat as our ropes refused to pull from round the block.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Creag Ghlas

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 12
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 11
Votes cast 13
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Rite of Spring

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Reiff - Rubha Coigeach)

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