500m, 13 pitches. 5a, 4a, 5a, 4a, 5a, 4a, 4a, 4a, 4b, 5a, 5a, 4a, 4c
Over to the right of the Normal. Scramble up then follow the big corner for 4 pitches. Tricky move left onto the main slab and then head for the notch in the skyline in another 8 or so pitches.
Was in the Schweiz Plaisir guide by Jurg von Kanel when we did it.

Gollut and Wattenhofer 1963

Hidden 13/Aug/17 2nd O/S
philmitch 30/Jun/17 AltLd O/S
cacheson 24/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Brilliant: just keeps on giving. The bottom 4 pitches have a totally different feel to the break onto the mirror, which in turn feels totally different to the huge slab. Take a set of cams though (we took nuts as well and certainly didn't regret it) as the bolting is pretty spartan. If I had to put a UK grade on it, I reckon no pitch is harder than HVS, but E1 reflects the seriousness of the undertaking due to length.

with Tom FP
Valaisan 19/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

One of the best big wall sport/trad hybrid routes of its kind in the alps. A superbly sustained 550m. Take a direct start to avoid the scramble and chuck in 2 x S Trad pitches to add to the 13 above. Giving Directe 5a and Normale (Y) 5c is just silly. I've done both and this needs correcting before it causes a major injury. Directe should be given 5c (sustained) and Normale 5a/b (for one pitch only, otherwise sub 4c). There are many single/2-3 pitch 6a Sport routes both in this valley and the surrounds that are considerably easier than some of the pitches on 'Directe'. Please bear that in mind if you aim to do it.

Bones [:B 24/Jul/16 2nd
guy127917 24/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Lead all pitches. Took no additional gear. Terrifyingly bolted.

with Jen
evans859 06/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
with Adam Vaughan
gfpowell ?/Jul/15 -
Hidden ?/Jun/15 2nd
mes32 06/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
Ly-Cilph 26/Oct/13 AltLd O/S

Wonderful day out; magnificent, varied crux pitches. 5c/D+

with Ellen B
Hidden 25/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
LardClimber 06/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Wayne S ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 AltLd
Frostie 01/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
guy757 01/Sep/11 AltLd
Andy Chubb 26/Aug/11 2nd

Great route, but the squeeze on the third pitch of the chimney is harder than VS, especially with a rucsac on.

with Twid Turner
matiamallia 20/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

unpleasant at letterbox section but comfortable after the first 3-4 pitches.Some of pitches are joined in one long one so now about 10 pitches normal size in total.long and tiring walk down the crag.polished.otherwise super.a set og nuts very comforting at the last 3-4 5a pitches but this depends on your confidense and the grade you climb comfortable.

paulerussell 20/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Sparse bolts, particularly on easy sections. Struggle up letter-box not so pleasant, excellent after that.

bigbobbyking 16/Jul/11 AltLd

Started trying Zygofolis, but the 5c+ pitch is REALLY hard. That scared us off so we traversed over to this route. Sadly it's basically fully equipped now. There are some long run outs between the bolts on the really easy bits but those are basically a walk. Shame, it would have been more interesting if it were trad :-( Amazing piece of rock though!

with Georg
abbeywall 11/Jul/11 AltLd
with K
Hidden ?/Aug/10 AltLd
Hidden 02/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
Trobbo 31/Aug/09 2nd
with ali welsh/martin bennett
Martin Bennett 31/Aug/09 -
with Terry Rob, Ali
Rog Wilko ?/Aug/01 AltLd

The Boite aux Lettres is harder than MVS would suggest, and was wet to boot! Nice climbing after that.

with Zoe Wilkinson & Debbie Wilkinson
Timmilner ??/2001 -

Guided by Steve Monks ISM

fellgazelle ??/2000 AltLd O/S
with Steven Vermesch
agagsgrot ?/Jul/97 -
with Chris
rogerskews 30/Jul/92 AltLd O/S

Excellent. No aid needed. Grades are "French" so mostly VS with one harder pitch onto the main slab. At the top, take the long traverse L to an easy way down, not down the stream bed which is shorter but scarier!

with Phil
Hidden ??/1991 AltLd
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