130m, 3 pitches. The rib between The Runnel finishing up the steeper rocks. Start at the base of the rib and climb the prominent groove to easier ground. There is now an easy finish parallel to the Runnel. The route takes either of the two deep grooves in the crest of the buttress. The left groove has a smooth start and is entered from the left to climb past an obvious small chokestone. The right hand groove is climbed direct and steepens to an awkward bulge which leads to a platform overlooking crotched gully. Step left into a narrow chimney leading to an easy finish.

ModerateMatt 04/Mar Lead rpt
with Andrea
BrianShackleton 05/Feb AltLd

Soft snow with no ice climbed in 3 pitches, taking the rt hand groove. Probably IV.4 on the day with no ice.

with Colwyn Jones
ModerateMatt 21/Nov/16 AltLd O/S

First couple of pitche's were great, solid turf and fun moves. Weather was cracking too, very cold and crisp managed to stayed pretty dry all day. However on the final pitch instead of stepping left into the chimney I walked along a bit then went left into a wider chimney which was hard, much harder than tech 4.

with Chris K
chris9 21/Nov/16 AltLd O/S
Robertgiddy 19/Nov/16 AltLd

Turf low down not frozen, right hand finish.

scottie390 19/Nov/16 AltLd

Grade II....

with Pat Ingram
joe king 06/Mar/16 AltLd O/S

Right hand chimney finish. Hugely quite hard as gear placements were covered

with steveP
steveP 06/Mar/16 AltLd

Took the right hand groove - conditions not the easiest. Felt like solid grade IV to me. Good work Dapper on the lead...

Kevin Woods 27/Feb/16 2nd O/S

RH chimney

with Joe Williams, Peris
Naomi.P 13/Feb/16 AltLd

With Quentin and Poppy. Lead pitch 2-snow slope. Lots of ice top pitch- hard but fun!

with Quentin
Hidden 13/Feb/16 2nd
Nemo9 10/Feb/16 -

Took left hand groove over small chockstone. good varied climbing. A bit of everything. Recommended.

with Col
cwhitty 10/Feb/16 AltLd
with Dave Macintyre
Hidden 07/Feb/16 2nd
stuart90 01/Feb/16 Lead

good neve and turf, placed warthog which confused James! Stonker belay at chock stone

with James Armstrong
GeorgeNunn ?/Feb/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 31/Jan/16 AltLd
Rob N 17/Jan/16 AltLd O/S
mountain musher ??/2016 -
Hidden ??/2016 -
stratandrew 15/Mar/15 AltLd O/S

Stevie P1 60m up the rib. I took LH groove finish. Very thin on P2 poor protection on the lower 15m (crux) then excellent pro at the chockstone. Probably top end tech 4 or tech 5 in todays conditions. Deserves two stars.

Hidden 21/Feb/15 2nd
JamesLamont 19/Feb/15 2nd

initial groove fairly easy onto snow slope. Most of second pitch was desperate. Dave moved onto crest and tackled that. I had to back and foot up the central groove on veerglass. The chockstone was quite simple ccompared to the groove below.

with Dave Slade
Ian Stirrups ?/Feb/15 2nd

Guided by JP. Hard in the conditions

with Johnathan Preston, Sue
Hidden 30/Jan/15 2nd
Hidden 23/Jan/15 AltLd
abbeywall 04/Jan/15 AltLd O/S

Nice first pitch. A few bulges, well protected and good neve/turf. FM led LH groove. Very hard in the smooth groove. Poor gear and no ice/neve. Tenuous until the first bulge. Good fun at chokestone. A lot of climbing on this route in these conditions and not III, 4

with FM
plain kitten ??/2015 -
Chrismith 29/Dec/14 AltLd
with Shane
Hidden 28/Dec/14 AltLd O/S
mzchambers 09/Jan/14 AltLd O/S


with Ewan
Coops_13 30/Dec/13 Lead dnf

Lots of fresh loose snow, ended up being unable to top-out or descend due to avalanche risk, rescued by Cairngorm MRT, very professional

with Josh Daymond
Hidden 09/Nov/13 2nd
PAJames 20/Feb/13 -
Hidden ??/2013 Solo
freudy_love 26/Dec/12 AltLd O/S
with Stewart Munro
telemarker 26/Dec/12 AltLd O/S

Great weather, blue skies with no wind. Bomber neve snow for most the route but loose in places. Had to dig for gear on the upper pitches. Enjoyed the first pitch.

PeteLoveless 01/Dec/12 2nd dnf
with Ben Gibson, jon
karinh 05/Feb/12 AltLd O/S

Led p1, which was very nice, then Harry led p2 right hand fork, which was desperate and gearless. The 'snow platform' mentioned in the guide wasn't there, there's a belay at the top of the chimney and after that it just drops down into crotched gully. You can climb back up left into another chimney but we just exited via the top of Crotched gully.

with harry
Hanky 02/Feb/12 2nd β

Battled all the way, climb a bit out of condition the boys said.They took a harder variation which was desperate, i avoided this as no gear to retrieve. Great climbing!

with Andy Chorl./ Nate M
Hidden 28/Jan/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Jan/12 Lead dnf
cyd0nian 28/Jan/12 2nd
with Kris Moeckell
Ulgrid 28/Jan/12 2nd
with Ross
Hidden 24/Jan/12 Lead
guy757 19/Jan/12 -
Colin Mcgregor 08/Jan/12 AltLd
Hidden 08/Jan/12 AltLd O/S
Alor_lab 07/Jan/12 AltLd O/S

Very fun route! Done in two pitches, the second is the hardest.

with Stephen Barrass
Hidden 06/Jan/12 AltLd
rossn ??/2012 -

Took the wrong route on this one after I had lead the first pitch. I think it would be worth a revisit as some other users pics show a decent second pitch to the route.

Hidden 18/Dec/11 AltLd
Yourlead 06/Dec/11 2nd
with Graham Penny, Paul Freeman
TomPollock 04/Mar/11 2nd O/S
with Andy
brighters 27/Feb/11 AltLd
malumb 30/Jan/11 2nd dnf

Solo up the first few sections to Runnel, but took right turn to avoid heavy traffic. Pete practically climbed it but took a wrong tuen, and we turn back to catch our lift home.

Pete Barker 30/Jan/11 Lead
with Mike
iansm 14/Jan/11 2nd

Windy and overcast but sheltered in the corrie. John leading. Interesting move over the chock stone.

with Archie, John
chapmand 09/Jan/11 Lead
Guy Wilson 09/Jan/11 -
with Dave Chapman
R0bbie 08/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
with Taba
Jimb0 31/Dec/10 AltLd
with Ander
Ander 31/Dec/10 AltLd

Just enough ice to do this, but enough is all you need. Sketchy gear on the final left groove, up to the chokestone at 30m. Good entertaining moves made all the more fun by being sustained and committing.

with Jimb0
SianR 14/Dec/10 AltLd
with Nikki
Hidden ?/Dec/10 -
matt_ringrose 07/Feb/10 AltLd
with Alex Nevard
Hidden 07/Feb/10 AltLd O/S
rossn ??/2010 AltLd O/S
with Nick Bryan
robertmichaellovell 13/Dec/09 AltLd

seemed more difficult that Ewen Buttress ... bit more sustained, last pitch and bit was good

with Tom
tomdude 13/Dec/09 AltLd

really pleasant route. right hand option

with rob
Captain Solo 08/Mar/09 Lead
with Mark
Mark Bannan 08/Mar/09 2nd

Awful day! Least enjoyable route ever in winter. Possibly bottling leading crux didn't help.

Alastair MacSween 07/Mar/09 Lead

Right hand

with Phil Warriner
jsrous 15/Feb/09 AltLd
with D Smith
joe larner 03/Jan/09 AltLd O/S
with Rolf
rossn ??/2009 -
AndyP 30/Dec/08 AltLd O/S

The temp. in the valley was -15 but it was much warmer in the corrie. The route was very thin, almost non-existent in the middle of the second pitch (left variation). Probably IV,5. The gear at the point where the ice disappeared was really poor, in better nick this area would presumably be choked with ice and neve. Well deserves its SMC star. Beautiful day with extensive visibility. Back at the car for 3pm.

with Joe
Hidden 29/Dec/08 AltLd O/S
Euan Strachan 20/Dec/08 AltLd β

First proper winter route. did not understand how to use gear

with Jonnie
jonnie3430 20/Dec/08 AltLd O/S

Took the right option, the last chimney was good fun.

with Euan
Jonny Tee 69 ?/Mar/08 AltLd

Climbed the left hand groove directly. Nice wee route.

with Pete
graeme gatherer ??/2000 -
Callum Anderson ?/Nov/95 Lead O/S

Banked out but still felt noticeably harder than the runnel that we thought we were on! All good in the end.

with Phil Ascough
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High 5
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