130m, 3 pitches. The rib between The Runnel finishing up the steeper rocks. Start at the base of the rib and climb the prominent groove to easier ground. There is now an easy finish parallel to the Runnel. The route takes either of the two deep grooves in the crest of the buttress. The left groove has a smooth start and is entered from the left to climb past an obvious small chokestone. The right hand groove is climbed direct and steepens to an awkward bulge which leads to a platform overlooking crotched gully. Step left into a narrow chimney leading to an easy finish.

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
R0BJ0N 28 Jan Lead O/S
with Dominic Teichmann
with Dominic Teichmann
Schanielawright 28 Jan AltLd
with Rory Brown, Matt Young
with Rory Brown, Matt Young
DomTe 28 Jan 2nd O/S
Wullie 24 Jan AltLd
nickcj 20 Jan AltLd O/S
CharlieSmith42 7 Dec, 2018 AltLd O/S
ModerateMatt 13 Mar, 2018 AltLd rpt
with James O
with James O
Hidden 7 Feb, 2018 Solo
tomwright1509 2 Jan, 2018 AltLd O/S
with joedean
with joedean
HimTiggins 1 Jan, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Alan, Amanda
with Alan, Amanda
ModerateMatt 4 Mar, 2017 Lead rpt
with Andrea
with Andrea
BrianShackleton 5 Feb, 2017 AltLd Soft snow with no ice climbed in 3 pitches, taking the rt hand groove. Probably IV.4 on the day with no ice.
with Colwyn Jones
Soft snow with no ice climbed in 3 pitches, taking the rt hand groove. Probably IV.4 on the day with no ice.
with Colwyn Jones
ModerateMatt 21 Nov, 2016 AltLd O/S First couple of pitche's were great, solid turf and fun moves. Weather was cracking too, very cold and crisp managed to stayed pretty dry all day. However on the final pitch instead of stepping left into the chimney I walked along a bit then went left into a wider chimney which was hard, much harder than tech 4.
with chris9
First couple of pitche's were great, solid turf and fun moves. Weather was cracking too, very cold and crisp managed to stayed pretty dry all day. However on the final pitch instead of stepping left into the chimney I walked along a bit then went left into a wider chimney which was hard, much harder than tech 4.
with chris9
chris9 21 Nov, 2016 AltLd O/S
Robertgiddy 19 Nov, 2016 AltLd Turf low down not frozen, right hand finish.
Turf low down not frozen, right hand finish.
Hidden 19 Nov, 2016 AltLd
joe king 6 Mar, 2016 AltLd O/S Right hand chimney finish. Hugely quite hard as gear placements were covered
with steveP
Right hand chimney finish. Hugely quite hard as gear placements were covered
with steveP
steveP 6 Mar, 2016 AltLd Took the right hand groove - conditions not the easiest. Felt like solid grade IV to me. Good work Dapper on the lead...
Took the right hand groove - conditions not the easiest. Felt like solid grade IV to me. Good work Dapper on the lead...
Kevin Woods 27 Feb, 2016 2nd O/S RH chimney
with Joe Williams, Peris
RH chimney
with Joe Williams, Peris
Naomi.P 13 Feb, 2016 AltLd With Quentin and Poppy. Lead pitch 2-snow slope. Lots of ice top pitch- hard but fun!
With Quentin and Poppy. Lead pitch 2-snow slope. Lots of ice top pitch- hard but fun!
Hidden 13 Feb, 2016 2nd
Nemo9 10 Feb, 2016 - Took left hand groove over small chockstone. good varied climbing. A bit of everything. Recommended.
with Col
Took left hand groove over small chockstone. good varied climbing. A bit of everything. Recommended.
with Col
cwhitty 10 Feb, 2016 AltLd
with Dave Macintyre
with Dave Macintyre
Hidden 7 Feb, 2016 2nd
stuart90 1 Feb, 2016 Lead good neve and turf, placed warthog which confused James! Stonker belay at chock stone
with James Armstrong
good neve and turf, placed warthog which confused James! Stonker belay at chock stone
with James Armstrong
GeorgeNunn ?Feb, 2016 AltLd O/S
with richjm
with richjm
Hidden 31 Jan, 2016 AltLd
Rob N 17 Jan, 2016 AltLd O/S
mountain musher ??, 2016 -
Hidden ??, 2016 -
stratandrew 15 Mar, 2015 AltLd O/S Stevie P1 60m up the rib. I took LH groove finish. Very thin on P2 poor protection on the lower 15m (crux) then excellent pro at the chockstone. Probably top end tech 4 or tech 5 in todays conditions. Deserves two stars.
Stevie P1 60m up the rib. I took LH groove finish. Very thin on P2 poor protection on the lower 15m (crux) then excellent pro at the chockstone. Probably top end tech 4 or tech 5 in todays conditions. Deserves two stars.
Hidden 21 Feb, 2015 2nd
JamesLamont 19 Feb, 2015 2nd initial groove fairly easy onto snow slope. Most of second pitch was desperate. Dave moved onto crest and tackled that. I had to back and foot up the central groove on veerglass. The chockstone was quite simple ccompared to the groove below.
with Dave Slade
initial groove fairly easy onto snow slope. Most of second pitch was desperate. Dave moved onto crest and tackled that. I had to back and foot up the central groove on veerglass. The chockstone was quite simple ccompared to the groove below.
with Dave Slade
Ian Stirrups ?Feb, 2015 2nd Guided by JP. Hard in the conditions
with Johnathan Preston, Sue
Guided by JP. Hard in the conditions
with Johnathan Preston, Sue
Hidden 30 Jan, 2015 2nd
Hidden 23 Jan, 2015 AltLd
abbeywall 4 Jan, 2015 AltLd O/S Nice first pitch. A few bulges, well protected and good neve/turf. FM led LH groove. Very hard in the smooth groove. Poor gear and no ice/neve. Tenuous until the first bulge. Good fun at chokestone. A lot of climbing on this route in these conditions and not III, 4
with FM
Nice first pitch. A few bulges, well protected and good neve/turf. FM led LH groove. Very hard in the smooth groove. Poor gear and no ice/neve. Tenuous until the first bulge. Good fun at chokestone. A lot of climbing on this route in these conditions and not III, 4
with FM
plain kitten ??, 2015 -
Chrismith 29 Dec, 2014 AltLd
with Shane
with Shane
Hidden 28 Dec, 2014 AltLd O/S
mzchambers 9 Jan, 2014 AltLd O/S Snowly!!!!
with Ewan
Snowly!!!!
with Ewan
Coops_13 30 Dec, 2013 Lead dnf Lots of fresh loose snow, ended up being unable to top-out or descend due to avalanche risk, rescued by Cairngorm MRT, very professional
with Josh Daymond
Lots of fresh loose snow, ended up being unable to top-out or descend due to avalanche risk, rescued by Cairngorm MRT, very professional
with Josh Daymond
Hidden 9 Nov, 2013 2nd
PAJames 20 Feb, 2013 -
Hidden ??, 2013 Solo
freudy_love 26 Dec, 2012 AltLd O/S
with Stewart Munro
with Stewart Munro
telemarker 26 Dec, 2012 AltLd O/S Great weather, blue skies with no wind. Bomber neve snow for most the route but loose in places. Had to dig for gear on the upper pitches. Enjoyed the first pitch.
Great weather, blue skies with no wind. Bomber neve snow for most the route but loose in places. Had to dig for gear on the upper pitches. Enjoyed the first pitch.
Chuck 2 Dec, 2012 AltLd Bailed off last pitch into gully as getting dark and felt way harder than III
with DannyC
Bailed off last pitch into gully as getting dark and felt way harder than III
with DannyC
PeteLoveless 1 Dec, 2012 2nd dnf
with Ben Gibson, jsrous
with Ben Gibson, jsrous
karinh 5 Feb, 2012 AltLd O/S Led p1, which was very nice, then Harry led p2 right hand fork, which was desperate and gearless. The 'snow platform' mentioned in the guide wasn't there, there's a belay at the top of the chimney and after that it just drops down into crotched gully. You can climb back up left into another chimney but we just exited via the top of Crotched gully.
with harry
Led p1, which was very nice, then Harry led p2 right hand fork, which was desperate and gearless. The 'snow platform' mentioned in the guide wasn't there, there's a belay at the top of the chimney and after that it just drops down into crotched gully. You can climb back up left into another chimney but we just exited via the top of Crotched gully.
with harry
Hanky 2 Feb, 2012 2nd β Battled all the way, climb a bit out of condition the boys said.They took a harder variation which was desperate, i avoided this as no gear to retrieve. Great climbing!
with Andy Chorl./ Nate M
Battled all the way, climb a bit out of condition the boys said.They took a harder variation which was desperate, i avoided this as no gear to retrieve. Great climbing!
with Andy Chorl./ Nate M
Hidden 28 Jan, 2012 Lead O/S
Hidden 28 Jan, 2012 Lead dnf
cyd0nian 28 Jan, 2012 2nd
with Kris Moeckell
with Kris Moeckell
Ulgrid 28 Jan, 2012 2nd
Hidden 24 Jan, 2012 Lead
Hidden 19 Jan, 2012 -
Colin Mcgregor 8 Jan, 2012 AltLd
Hidden 8 Jan, 2012 AltLd O/S
Alor_lab 7 Jan, 2012 AltLd O/S Very fun route! Done in two pitches, the second is the hardest.
with Stephen Barrass
Very fun route! Done in two pitches, the second is the hardest.
with Stephen Barrass
Hidden 6 Jan, 2012 AltLd
rossn ??, 2012 - Took the wrong route on this one after I had lead the first pitch. I think it would be worth a revisit as some other users pics show a decent second pitch to the route.
Took the wrong route on this one after I had lead the first pitch. I think it would be worth a revisit as some other users pics show a decent second pitch to the route.
Hidden 18 Dec, 2011 AltLd
Yourlead 6 Dec, 2011 2nd
with Graham Penny, Paul Freeman
with Graham Penny, Paul Freeman
TomPollock 4 Mar, 2011 2nd O/S
with Andy
with Andy
brighters 27 Feb, 2011 AltLd
malumb 30 Jan, 2011 2nd dnf Solo up the first few sections to Runnel, but took right turn to avoid heavy traffic. Pete practically climbed it but took a wrong tuen, and we turn back to catch our lift home.
Solo up the first few sections to Runnel, but took right turn to avoid heavy traffic. Pete practically climbed it but took a wrong tuen, and we turn back to catch our lift home.
Pete Barker 30 Jan, 2011 Lead
with malumb
with malumb
iansm 14 Jan, 2011 2nd Windy and overcast but sheltered in the corrie. John leading. Interesting move over the chock stone.
with Archie, John
Windy and overcast but sheltered in the corrie. John leading. Interesting move over the chock stone.
with Archie, John
chapmand 9 Jan, 2011 Lead
Guy Wilson 9 Jan, 2011 -
with Dave Chapman
with Dave Chapman
R0bbie 8 Jan, 2011 AltLd O/S
with Taba
with Taba
Jimb0 31 Dec, 2010 AltLd
with Ander
with Ander
Ander 31 Dec, 2010 AltLd Just enough ice to do this, but enough is all you need. Sketchy gear on the final left groove, up to the chokestone at 30m. Good entertaining moves made all the more fun by being sustained and committing.
with Jimb0
Just enough ice to do this, but enough is all you need. Sketchy gear on the final left groove, up to the chokestone at 30m. Good entertaining moves made all the more fun by being sustained and committing.
with Jimb0
SianR 14 Dec, 2010 AltLd
with Nikki
with Nikki
Hidden ?Dec, 2010 -
matt_ringrose 7 Feb, 2010 AltLd
with Alex Nevard
with Alex Nevard
Hidden 7 Feb, 2010 AltLd O/S
rossn ??, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Nick Bryan
with Nick Bryan
robertmichaellovell 13 Dec, 2009 AltLd seemed more difficult that Ewen Buttress ... bit more sustained, last pitch and bit was good
with tomdude
seemed more difficult that Ewen Buttress ... bit more sustained, last pitch and bit was good
with tomdude
tomdude 13 Dec, 2009 AltLd really pleasant route. right hand option
really pleasant route. right hand option
Captain Solo 8 Mar, 2009 Lead
Mark Bannan 8 Mar, 2009 2nd Awful day! Least enjoyable route ever in winter. Possibly bottling leading crux didn't help.
Awful day! Least enjoyable route ever in winter. Possibly bottling leading crux didn't help.
Alastair MacSween 7 Mar, 2009 Lead Right hand
with Phil Warriner
Right hand
with Phil Warriner
jsrous 15 Feb, 2009 AltLd
with D Smith
with D Smith
Hidden 3 Jan, 2009 AltLd O/S
rossn ??, 2009 -
AndyP 30 Dec, 2008 AltLd O/S The temp. in the valley was -15 but it was much warmer in the corrie. The route was very thin, almost non-existent in the middle of the second pitch (left variation). Probably IV,5. The gear at the point where the ice disappeared was really poor, in better nick this area would presumably be choked with ice and neve. Well deserves its SMC star. Beautiful day with extensive visibility. Back at the car for 3pm.
with Joe
The temp. in the valley was -15 but it was much warmer in the corrie. The route was very thin, almost non-existent in the middle of the second pitch (left variation). Probably IV,5. The gear at the point where the ice disappeared was really poor, in better nick this area would presumably be choked with ice and neve. Well deserves its SMC star. Beautiful day with extensive visibility. Back at the car for 3pm.
with Joe
Hidden 29 Dec, 2008 AltLd O/S
Euan Strachan 20 Dec, 2008 AltLd β First proper winter route. did not understand how to use gear
First proper winter route. did not understand how to use gear
jonnie3430 20 Dec, 2008 AltLd O/S Took the right option, the last chimney was good fun.
with Euan
Took the right option, the last chimney was good fun.
with Euan
Jonny Tee 69 ?Mar, 2008 AltLd Climbed the left hand groove directly. Nice wee route.
with Pete
Climbed the left hand groove directly. Nice wee route.
with Pete
graeme gatherer ??, 2000 -
Callum Anderson ?Nov, 1995 Lead O/S Banked out but still felt noticeably harder than the runnel that we thought we were on! All good in the end.
with Phil Ascough
Banked out but still felt noticeably harder than the runnel that we thought we were on! All good in the end.
with Phil Ascough
14 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
High III
Mid III
Low III
High II/III
Mid II/III
Low II/III
Votes cast 24
High 5
Mid 5
Low 5
High 4
Mid 4
Low 4
High 3
Mid 3
Low 3
Votes cast 22
Votes cast 17
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Followed
Lead
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Not Set