100m, 3 pitches.
Scramble up the stream from the second foot bridge until you reach the base of the waterfall. This first pitch is the grade IV crux of the climb the following pitches go at grade III. If the first pitch is not fully formed it is possible to bypass the pitch by grass and heather scrambling and or turf bashing up either side of the fall, note that it is steep in places and the left hand side has an awkward traverse.
Pitch 1
20m Climb the wall to a tree belay on the left.
Pitch 2
40m Continue up. A good rock belay can be found on the right hand side at the base of the next step.
Pitch 3
40m Move back to the center of the fall and climb straight up to the top of the fall. The fence belay mentioned in the guide book appears to have gone.
Pitch 1
20m Climb the wall to a tree belay on the left.
Pitch 2
40m Continue up. A good rock belay can be found on the right hand side at the base of the next step.
Pitch 3
40m Move back to the center of the fall and climb straight up to the top of the fall. The fence belay mentioned in the guide book appears to have gone.
H. Griffiths G. Lewis 22/Feb/1983.
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Route of Interest
Plan for Coal
Grade: IV ***
(Blaenrhondda)