UKC

Restricted Access

Cheedale is a SSSI and SAC with a high level of legal protection under European law. Access for climbing is concessionary and can only be maintained if climber's continue to adhere to a number of conditions agreed with Derbyshire Wildlife Trust (who own the Southern bank of the river). These include:

  • No access along the top of the dale beyond a corner formed by the wall and obvious new fence bounding the 3rd major gully east of Plum Buttress. Therefore, no access to Runyans Corner and Moving, Long, or Two-Tier Buttresses from above.
  • No further bolted development on the small, vegetated, and obscure crags, which rim the dale.
  • Do not leave in situ krabs or tape on bolt hangers.
  • Parts of Nettle Buttress, Chee Tor East, and Dogs Dinner area are bolt free areas of outstanding appearance. 
  • Do not remove large swathes of ivy.

Blackwell Halt
This compact wall has a good set of mid-grade routes. The setting is pleasant and there is plenty of picnic potential at the base. The wall faces south although the lower section is in the shade of the trees. There is little seepage and it is well sheltered from the wind.

Approach - From the Monsal Trail on the Chee Dale Upper Approach, head down towards the cafe/cycle hire. Cross the bridge and turn sharply left at the cottages to follow a small path along the edge of the river past a pump house. This leads to a tunnel under the train tracks. On leaving the tunnel, cross the fence on the left and go up some hidden stone steps. From here a path leads up into the grassy field below the quarry.

Access - The new landowner of Blackwell Halt is working towards being able to give permission for climbers to access the site but is not currently able to do so. If you do decide to visit, be aware you may be asked to leave - please be polite and courteous at all times.

18m.

Rockfax Description
Start by pulling through a small bulge to gain the ramp. Wander up cleaner rock above to a tricky finish in a small groove. © Rockfax

FA. Gary Gibson 1985.

Ticklists

Chee Dale Upper

Feedback

User Date Notes
Old Danny 6 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Kind of strong start but then a no hands rest. I'd say the top half was more difficult, sustained and fiddly obvious/good holds few and far between.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Kind of strong start but then a no hands rest. I'd say the top half was more difficult, sustained and fiddly obvious/good holds few and far between.
Graham Hoey 14 Apr, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Now direct and with its own lower-off. Four bolts.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Now direct and with its own lower-off. Four bolts.

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High 6c
Mid 6c
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High 6b+
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Low 6a+
Votes cast 103
Votes cast 91
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Dogged
Ground Up
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Apollo Creed

Grade: 6b ***
(Harpur Hill Quarry)

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