UKC

Restricted Access

Access to the crag is sensitive given that is is very close to nearby houses - residents have in the past confronted climbers and asked them to leave.

Please make a particular effort to be quiet at this crag (especially avoiding shouting and bad language), take all litter home with you and don't use the crag or it's surrounds as a toilet. Keeping a low profile here is a good idea to help develop good realtionships with local residents and avoid access issues in the future.

Two useful links for further info are the online version of the Cicerone Leicestershire Climbs guidebook and the new Leicestershire Climbs website.

15m. Start in the middle of the left hand slab (where there is a small vertical break), and move up and right continuously above the cave roof. From a juggy hold at the full cave height, make bold precarious moves out right for 3m above thin air to incuts where Saucy exits. Finish easily straight up the small pinnacle above.

An alternative start is to rock on to the slab from the hanging right-hand side and move directly up to join the rising traverse.

Dick Wrottesley, Ken Vickers 1962.

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