UKC

Restricted Access

Cheedale is a SSSI and SAC with a high level of legal protection under European law. Access for climbing is concessionary and can only be maintained if climber's continue to adhere to a number of conditions agreed with Derbyshire Wildlife Trust (who own the Southern bank of the river). These include:

  • No access along the top of the dale beyond a corner formed by the wall and obvious new fence bounding the 3rd major gully east of Plum Buttress. Therefore, no access to Runyans Corner and Moving, Long, or Two-Tier Buttresses from above.
  • No further bolted development on the small, vegetated, and obscure crags, which rim the dale.
  • Do not leave in situ krabs or tape on bolt hangers.
  • Parts of Nettle Buttress, Chee Tor East, and Dogs Dinner area are bolt free areas of outstanding appearance. 
  • Do not remove large swathes of ivy.

Blackwell Halt
This compact wall has a good set of mid-grade routes. The setting is pleasant and there is plenty of picnic potential at the base. The wall faces south although the lower section is in the shade of the trees. There is little seepage and it is well sheltered from the wind.

Approach - From the Monsal Trail on the Chee Dale Upper Approach, head down towards the cafe/cycle hire. Cross the bridge and turn sharply left at the cottages to follow a small path along the edge of the river past a pump house. This leads to a tunnel under the train tracks. On leaving the tunnel, cross the fence on the left and go up some hidden stone steps. From here a path leads up into the grassy field below the quarry.

Access - The new landowner of Blackwell Halt is working towards being able to give permission for climbers to access the site but is not currently able to do so. If you do decide to visit, be aware you may be asked to leave - please be polite and courteous at all times.

22m.

Rockfax Description
Balance climbing after the hideous crimpy start. Gain the (steep) slab above and climb this thoughtfully. Very reachy. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
7c. The original start now hosts a hideous crimp move since hold loss.

FA. Gary Gibson, R.Siddiqui 1996.

Feedback

User Date Notes
robert mirfin 20 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: 7c+ the crimpy crux felt around font 7a+/b to me
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: 7c+ the crimpy crux felt around font 7a+/b to me
mark20 29 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Quite hard and unbalanced. Felt like a hard 7c to me but I can reach the 'good' crimp with feet still in the break. A desperate sequence for shorties.
βeta?
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βeta: Quite hard and unbalanced. Felt like a hard 7c to me but I can reach the 'good' crimp with feet still in the break. A desperate sequence for shorties.
Keith Sharples 9 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: I believe this route lost a large block (a while ago) that was used as a foothold (crucial?) for the moves pulling onto the slab about 2 metres above the initial break.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I believe this route lost a large block (a while ago) that was used as a foothold (crucial?) for the moves pulling onto the slab about 2 metres above the initial break.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Chee Dale Upper

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Voting
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
Votes cast 3
Votes cast 13
Style of Ascent
Lead
Not Set
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Squealer

Grade: 7c ***
(Lorry Park Quarry)

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