167m, 7 pitches. Prestigous Scottish mountain classic with all that entails. Together with The True Finish this gives a monumental outing.

R. Smith, A .Fraser Jun/1958

Ticklists

Hard Rock, Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice, Ultimate Scottish Rock, Great Scottish E2s, Scottish Rock Climbs ****, Robin Smith Legacy, Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes, World Graded List, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, Summer Trip 2014, Ultimate E2 ticklist, UK Lonely Leads, The Great Mountain Crags of Scotland, BMG Application Rock (Unofficial), Last of the Summer Climb, Scottish Rock Benchmarks, Showcase Britain & Ireland

Feedback

UserDateNotes
Robertgiddy 21 Sep Show βeta
βeta: Believe the SMC Glen Coe guide has some errors. The "Climb the overhanging corner above" at the end of p4 doesn't seem to exist, and the tech grades for the last two pitches are the wrong way round (based on personal experience and G Latter). Latters description seems better but id split his pitch 5.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Believe the SMC Glen Coe guide has some errors. The "Climb the overhanging corner above" at the end of p4 doesn't seem to exist, and the tech grades for the last two pitches are the wrong way round (based on personal experience and G Latter). Latters description seems better but id split his pitch 5.
Login as Existing User to add your feedback

Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
WillHempstead 21 Sep AltLd O/S Scottish VS right? Second day back in Scotland after a long summer, what a route!. Led middle pitches. Runouts really blew away the cobwebs
Scottish VS right? Second day back in Scotland after a long summer, what a route!. Led middle pitches. Runouts really blew away the cobwebs
Robertgiddy 21 Sep AltLd O/S Lead top two pitches, mega route!
Lead top two pitches, mega route!
gurumed 28 Jun AltLd O/S Excellent. Lived up to its reputation.
with Gordon Lacey, Steve R
Excellent. Lived up to its reputation.
with Gordon Lacey, Steve R
calumhicks 28 Jun AltLd O/S In 6 pitches; I got 2+3 and 5. Very engrossing, serious feel to it, and each pitch offers interest. Negotiating the slime of P2 was an experience I’ll not forget!
with AliRLee
In 6 pitches; I got 2+3 and 5. Very engrossing, serious feel to it, and each pitch offers interest. Negotiating the slime of P2 was an experience I’ll not forget!
with AliRLee
AliRLee 28 Jun AltLd O/S Great route, glad I didn’t have to lead ‘the slime’. Fun climbing on solid rock. Not gonna lie, bit disappointed... 3/4* but not what it’s amped up to be
Great route, glad I didn’t have to lead ‘the slime’. Fun climbing on solid rock. Not gonna lie, bit disappointed... 3/4* but not what it’s amped up to be
Gordon Lacey 28 Jun AltLd O/S
with Stevie Richardson , Gordon Mckillop
with Stevie Richardson , Gordon Mckillop
Hidden ?? -
Rhys Deane 29 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Peter flanigan
with Peter flanigan
ferdia 1 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S
Andy Moles 1 Jun, 2018 AltLd This has been top of my wishlist ever since I got into climbing. Probably just as well I didn't do it years ago when E2 was my limit, moving past the peg on wet footholds feels serious. Superb rock and positions, did not disappoint.
with ferdia
This has been top of my wishlist ever since I got into climbing. Probably just as well I didn't do it years ago when E2 was my limit, moving past the peg on wet footholds feels serious. Superb rock and positions, did not disappoint.
with ferdia
jeremy 29 May, 2018 AltLd
with olekemi
with olekemi
lanky 29 May, 2018 AltLd Great route, led the odds
Great route, led the odds
olekemi 29 May, 2018 AltLd O/S Gotcha. Superb, deserves the acclaim it gets.
with jeremy
Gotcha. Superb, deserves the acclaim it gets.
with jeremy
Flavio 26 May, 2018 AltLd O/S
JendeHoxar 26 May, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Flavio
with Flavio
Hugh Simons 26 May, 2018 AltLd O/S In 5 pitches, with the true finish. I led P2 and P 5+6 in one. Lives up to the hype, the best mountain route I've ever done. Amazing climbing, amazing positions (especially on the true finish traverse pitch) and amazing rock. Quality.
In 5 pitches, with the true finish. I led P2 and P 5+6 in one. Lives up to the hype, the best mountain route I've ever done. Amazing climbing, amazing positions (especially on the true finish traverse pitch) and amazing rock. Quality.
DavidMcK 26 May, 2018 AltLd In 5 pitches, worth all the hype. Pitches 3 and 4 are pretty bold but the climbing isn't too bad. True finishes pitches are unbelievable!
In 5 pitches, worth all the hype. Pitches 3 and 4 are pretty bold but the climbing isn't too bad. True finishes pitches are unbelievable!
Hidden 25 May, 2018 AltLd O/S
arose 18 May, 2018 Lead Very wet crux pitch. great route.
Very wet crux pitch. great route.
matthew.rowbottom91 18 May, 2018 2nd
with arose
with arose
eaf4 27 May, 2017 AltLd Stolen before the storms. Made a bit of a meal of this. But great adventure. Started raining just as we topped out, after a swing in the cave!
with Will
Stolen before the storms. Made a bit of a meal of this. But great adventure. Started raining just as we topped out, after a swing in the cave!
with Will
salix 27 May, 2017 AltLd O/S Stolen from Jaws of the thunder storm. Early start, lovely conditions even if the groove had some moisture. Lead evens, all great pitches.
with Euan
Stolen from Jaws of the thunder storm. Early start, lovely conditions even if the groove had some moisture. Lead evens, all great pitches.
with Euan
Adam Long 12 May, 2017 AltLd O/S Baltic, wore less on Point 5. A great route but a tad oversold in the Latter guide ('the best E2 on the planet'). Line a touch wandering and contrived but some fine positions.
with Ben Bransby
Baltic, wore less on Point 5. A great route but a tad oversold in the Latter guide ('the best E2 on the planet'). Line a touch wandering and contrived but some fine positions.
with Ben Bransby
Mackinclimb 11 May, 2017 AltLd
seanhendo123 11 May, 2017 Lead O/S True finish
True finish
D.Russell 10 May, 2017 AltLd O/S Great route. Top 3 pitches are all brilliant.
with Adam Russell, John m
Great route. Top 3 pitches are all brilliant.
with Adam Russell, John m
John McKenna 10 May, 2017 AltLd O/S P1 and 5. Superb
P1 and 5. Superb
mim tiller 10 May, 2017 AltLd O/S I did P2 & 3 together as a link and did the last pitch true finish. Ace
I did P2 & 3 together as a link and did the last pitch true finish. Ace
andyinglis 7 May, 2017 AltLd O/S Led all pitches after P1 including true finish, which was well worth doing, and pretty cool traversing out over the cave! A lot of E2 goin' on right there!
Led all pitches after P1 including true finish, which was well worth doing, and pretty cool traversing out over the cave! A lot of E2 goin' on right there!
CMoore 7 May, 2017 AltLd O/S lead 1st and 6th/7th pitches as one. mega route. loved it. Wee bit chilly
lead 1st and 6th/7th pitches as one. mega route. loved it. Wee bit chilly
Hidden 7 May, 2017 AltLd O/S
Tom.Priestley 7 May, 2017 AltLd O/S Led p4+5 together. Awesome intimidating and cold place. Amazing route.
Led p4+5 together. Awesome intimidating and cold place. Amazing route.
tunnah 7 May, 2017 AltLd
with CMoore
with CMoore
Andrew Nelson ??, 2017 -
rob16 5 Jun, 2016 AltLd
with Matt Brook
with Matt Brook
penny.orr 3 Jun, 2016 2nd Cold and bold - that's what I will remember about this one! ... and that we finished the day by swimming in the Etive River. (The climbing would have been really great had I been able to feel my hands and feet.)
Cold and bold - that's what I will remember about this one! ... and that we finished the day by swimming in the Etive River. (The climbing would have been really great had I been able to feel my hands and feet.)
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 3 Jun, 2016 Lead O/S After climbing on the Etive Slabs the day before I was hoping for something with better protection, but alas - it was not meant to be. A truly sensational route up blank and featureless terrain, not one for the faint hearted...
After climbing on the Etive Slabs the day before I was hoping for something with better protection, but alas - it was not meant to be. A truly sensational route up blank and featureless terrain, not one for the faint hearted...
Finlandia 31 May, 2016 AltLd Quite bold in places
with noskki
Quite bold in places
with noskki
tomdude 31 May, 2016 AltLd Super duper, didn't expect to get on this this year/ever. Hard Rock induced a sleepless night before. Nick took a wee swing on the penultimate traversing pitch - mashed my belay hand a bit. Glad I got to second the hardest pitches! Beautiful route.
with nick
Super duper, didn't expect to get on this this year/ever. Hard Rock induced a sleepless night before. Nick took a wee swing on the penultimate traversing pitch - mashed my belay hand a bit. Glad I got to second the hardest pitches! Beautiful route.
with nick
noskki 31 May, 2016 AltLd O/S 2nd pitch wet but doable. This is a memorable collection of more or less well protected moments of awkwardness: involving ledges invariably facing the wrong way, protection not always confidence inspiring, some feet defined away (p2) ... A contorted line over steep, compact and solid rock.
2nd pitch wet but doable. This is a memorable collection of more or less well protected moments of awkwardness: involving ledges invariably facing the wrong way, protection not always confidence inspiring, some feet defined away (p2) ... A contorted line over steep, compact and solid rock.
Greg Cunningham 30 May, 2016 AltLd O/S I lead the even pitches. Great day out - dry as it probably should be, beautiful blue sky and nobody else on the wall except our mates on the E4 to the right
with Crispin Waddy
I lead the even pitches. Great day out - dry as it probably should be, beautiful blue sky and nobody else on the wall except our mates on the E4 to the right
with Crispin Waddy
Hidden 29 May, 2016 AltLd
freudy_love 2 Oct, 2015 AltLd O/S Great lead from Ewan to hold it together on the very wet 2nd pitch with not exactly "amazing" gear :P Never a nails move on the route but plenty moments where you feel quite out there and exposed.
Great lead from Ewan to hold it together on the very wet 2nd pitch with not exactly "amazing" gear :P Never a nails move on the route but plenty moments where you feel quite out there and exposed.
Captain Solo 2 Oct, 2015 AltLd Never sure if I would ever get the chance to climb this route but the day finally arrived. Wet at the lower crux which made it more difficult, pretty dry after that. I particularly enjoyed p4, very absorbing, last 2 pitches fantastic exposure, led the evens. Life is good again.
Never sure if I would ever get the chance to climb this route but the day finally arrived. Wet at the lower crux which made it more difficult, pretty dry after that. I particularly enjoyed p4, very absorbing, last 2 pitches fantastic exposure, led the evens. Life is good again.
robpartridge 19 Sep, 2015 AltLd
with Euan
with Euan
phil64 ??, 2015 Lead
Hidden 25 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Jul, 2014 AltLd
buffalo606 28 Jun, 2014 -
Hidden 26 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S
Liam Ingram 21 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S Original finish for a number of reasons. Led all except second pitch due to partner's spasming fingers. Awesome route although pitch 2 is very serious and was still wet despite the recent heat wave. Will be back for the true finish but probably via another route.
Original finish for a number of reasons. Led all except second pitch due to partner's spasming fingers. Awesome route although pitch 2 is very serious and was still wet despite the recent heat wave. Will be back for the true finish but probably via another route.
robertmichaellovell 20 Jul, 2013 AltLd did the odd pitches, busy on the wall today - not bad, the top two pitches made the route
with Sam
did the odd pitches, busy on the wall today - not bad, the top two pitches made the route
with Sam
centurion05 8 Jun, 2013 AltLd
captain ??, 2013 -
Hidden ??, 2013 -
captain ??, 2013 -
Hidden 26 May, 2012 Lead
simon_D 27 Mar, 2012 AltLd O/S bold and intricate! Fantastic weather and route :)
with Karen Mc
bold and intricate! Fantastic weather and route :)
with Karen Mc
Kazza91 ?Mar, 2012 -
Hidden ??, 2012 -
tim newton 2 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S with true finish.
with true finish.
Hidden 2 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S
Exodus 2 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S
with Timmy
with Timmy
S Lynch 29 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Dangerous Dave 19 Jun, 2010 AltLd O/S Led 2,4,6 pitches. Pitch 2 was wet and very bold!
with Sandy
Led 2,4,6 pitches. Pitch 2 was wet and very bold!
with Sandy
steveb2006 18 Jun, 2010 Lead Brilliant long sustained route. Bit wet on second pitch, which I think is normal
Brilliant long sustained route. Bit wet on second pitch, which I think is normal
Johann ??, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Tony Shepherd
with Tony Shepherd
Johann ??, 2010 -
Peetzy 4 Jun, 2009 Lead O/S
Charlie wp Hill ??, 2009 -
datoon 7 Sep, 2008 AltLd O/S Did the hard pitch and then enjoyed the rest of the day!!! Nice and wet.
with K & RT
Did the hard pitch and then enjoyed the rest of the day!!! Nice and wet.
with K & RT
khawk 7 Sep, 2008 AltLd
with DT&RT
with DT&RT
Adam Ellwood 25 Jul, 2008 AltLd O/S 2nd pitch was a tad slimey.
2nd pitch was a tad slimey.
whispering nic 25 Jul, 2008 AltLd O/S with the Hughes Finish
with the Hughes Finish
DavidEvans 25 Jul, 2008 AltLd Led 1, 3, 5 (True finish).
Led 1, 3, 5 (True finish).
akhughes 25 Jul, 2008 AltLd O/S
with whispering nic
with whispering nic
Neil Adams 14 Jun, 2008 AltLd O/S Did the original finish rather than the true one but still a brilliant route, made especially memorable by the showers!
Did the original finish rather than the true one but still a brilliant route, made especially memorable by the showers!
Hidden ?Jun, 2008 Lead O/S
Chad123 10 May, 2008 AltLd O/S Did the top two pitches linked with Apparition, best two pitches on the cliff? Lovely moves in an incredible position. (Finally did the direct 10 years later!!)
with Emily
Did the top two pitches linked with Apparition, best two pitches on the cliff? Lovely moves in an incredible position. (Finally did the direct 10 years later!!)
with Emily
a_hein ??, 2008 Lead dnf rained off after the wet 5c pitch...
with Iain Moody
rained off after the wet 5c pitch...
with Iain Moody
kevg 9 Aug, 2007 AltLd O/S
with Cam
with Cam
Rich Mayfield 20 Jul, 2007 AltLd
Mark Stevenson 20 Jul, 2007 AltLd O/S
with Rich Mayfield
with Rich Mayfield
Hidden 16 Jul, 2006 Lead dnf
Alastair R ??, 2006 AltLd O/S
with Phil E.
with Phil E.
NDD ??, 2005 AltLd
Cassidy 18 Jul, 2002 AltLd O/S
with David Cassidy
with David Cassidy
brianrunner ??, 2001 -
with dave kerr
with dave kerr
Chad123 ?May, 2000 AltLd Classic high mountain route with lots of good pitches, have to go back and do the direct finish some time...
with Greg
Classic high mountain route with lots of good pitches, have to go back and do the direct finish some time...
with Greg
Hidden 30 Apr, 2000 AltLd dnf
DaveHK 26 Jul, 1999 AltLd
with Brian Dickson
with Brian Dickson
Hidden ??, 1999 -
phardman 20 Jul, 1997 AltLd O/S With direct finish. Took all day.
with Jon Bibby
With direct finish. Took all day.
with Jon Bibby
richparry ?Jun, 1997 AltLd O/S
ellis ?Jun, 1996 AltLd O/S
with Dan Long
with Dan Long
Hidden ??, 1995 -
Hidden ??, 1995 -
Hidden ??, 1995 -
Hidden ??, 1995 -
Hidden ??, 1995 -
Hidden ??, 1995 -
Hidden ??, 1995 -
Hidden ??, 1995 -
Hidden ??, 1995 -
Hidden ??, 1995 -
Hidden ??, 1995 -
Hidden ??, 1995 -
Hidden ??, 1995 -
Hidden ??, 1995 -
Hidden ??, 1995 -
Hidden ??, 1995 -
Hidden ??, 1995 -
Hidden ??, 1995 -
Hidden ??, 1995 -
Hidden ??, 1995 -
Hidden ??, 1995 -
Hidden ??, 1995 -
Hidden ??, 1995 -
Hidden ??, 1995 -
Hidden ??, 1995 -
Hidden ??, 1995 -
Hidden ??, 1995 -
Hidden ??, 1995 -
Hidden ??, 1995 -
Hidden ??, 1995 -
Hidden ??, 1995 -
Hidden ??, 1995 -
Hidden ??, 1995 -
Hidden ??, 1995 -
Hidden ??, 1995 -
Hidden ??, 1995 -
graham lawrie ??, 1991 Lead
with Brian McMillan
with Brian McMillan
andy gittins ??, 1991 -
with Annette
with Annette
Hidden ?Jun, 1990 Lead
Hidden ?May, 1990 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??, 1990 AltLd
uphillnow ?May, 1989 AltLd Serious.
Serious.
Hidden 25 Jun, 1988 AltLd O/S
mark mcgowan01 ?Jun, 1988 Solo rpt It was everything it was meant to be...
It was everything it was meant to be...
gooberman-hill ??, 1988 Lead
Brian Wilderspin 29 May, 1987 AltLd O/S
with Perric Crellin
with Perric Crellin
andybirtwistle 26 Mar, 1987 AltLd
with Ian Kyle
with Ian Kyle
Bruce Kerr 9 Jun, 1984 AltLd
with Rab Young
with Rab Young
Steve Clegg 27 May, 1984 AltLd
with Bob W
with Bob W
charlesmfrench 27 May, 1984 AltLd 2,L,L,L,2,L,L.
with Andy Tallent
2,L,L,L,2,L,L.
with Andy Tallent
barny ??, 1984 - I led P1, a long runout from the ground with the first protection after 30ft a friend in a greasy parallel-sided crack - but some more came along. Top pitch in a fantastic position. Not so hard
with Tim Whose Surname I Can't Remember
I led P1, a long runout from the ground with the first protection after 30ft a friend in a greasy parallel-sided crack - but some more came along. Top pitch in a fantastic position. Not so hard
with Tim Whose Surname I Can't Remember
Neil McA 29 Aug, 1983 AltLd O/S Great day out. no idea which finish we did!
with Dave Armstrong
Great day out. no idea which finish we did!
with Dave Armstrong
GeoffG ?Jul, 1983 AltLd
with paul bannister
with paul bannister
Lone Rider ??, 1983 AltLd
with Alan Shand
with Alan Shand
Davy Gunn ?Sep, 1982 AltLd O/S
with George Reid
with George Reid
Martin Bennett 30 May, 1982 -
with Ron, JD
with Ron, JD
redjerry ?Jun, 1981 AltLd O/S
with Jim Melrose
with Jim Melrose
robinsi197 ??, 1980 Lead dnf Did the crux pitch but cured a wobble by touching the peg. So disgusted with myself, I abbed off from the belay. Hopefully I've grown up a bit since then.
with Barbara
Did the crux pitch but cured a wobble by touching the peg. So disgusted with myself, I abbed off from the belay. Hopefully I've grown up a bit since then.
with Barbara
Hidden ?Aug, 1979 Lead
Hidden 15 Jun, 1969 AltLd
162 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 28
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 26
Votes cast 26
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Not Set