180m, 6 pitches. Approach down a rusty steel cable then descend the steep grassy slope to a rock ledge, abseil possible if desired (tat in place Sept 2017).

1) 40m. Traverse easily right across broken ledges to a large ledge on the arete, a rusty peg signals the belay.

2) 25m, 4a. Traverse up and right on ledges to the arete. Step up, and climb 10 m to a large ledge level with a flat topped spike.

3) 35m, 4c. Continue traversing right until below small overhangs. Continue to traverse along the easiest line beneath the overhangs moving up until a peg is reached. Move left here along diagonal ledges to a bay on the arete. Note the "perched block" described in the CC guide appears to have gone seaward.

4) 20m, 4b. Climb to a niche at the base of the steep groove, to clip to remnants of a peg, which can fortunately be backed up with nuts and a sling to the right. Step right and try to refrain your gag reflex as you pass a mountain of guano on a ledge. Step up and move right to an exposed belay on the arete.

5) 30m, 5a. Climb the roof above the belay (easier that it appears) to a large ledge. Move to the right hand end of this and up (two pegs) to a large flat hold on the right. Use this to gain a large grassy ledge, and ascend to the next, smaller grassy ledge. Move right using some sneaky holds to a large grassy bay, belay.

6) 30m, 4b. Head up the short black wall of the right hand side of the belay ledge. Follow the natural line up to steep grass and belay blocks.

You can either a) continue along the ridge (easy) b) abseil to the base of the quarry (careful not to jam your ropes) or c) walk/scramble down grassy rakes to the quarry base.

P Crew, I McNaught-Davis 04/Apr/1966

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List, HVS Adventures, MIA logbook must haves!, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, Ultimate HVS ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), High Quality Adventure routes, 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs, Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Bristol_Quornstar 19 Sep AltLd O/S Oh what a journey! Cable is nearly shot-thru so abbed down a fixed 60m static and made a retrievable ab off the end with climbing ropes. It may have very little gear but the climbing is friendly (as adventure trad goes). Who needs chalk when you've got old bird nests and guano?!
Oh what a journey! Cable is nearly shot-thru so abbed down a fixed 60m static and made a retrievable ab off the end with climbing ropes. It may have very little gear but the climbing is friendly (as adventure trad goes). Who needs chalk when you've got old bird nests and guano?!
Si 10 Oct, 2018 AltLd Definitely an adventure! Good choice for a balmy October day (maybe the last day of summer?). Very very serious though. I went off route on the 3rd pitch and only redeemed myself by doing the crux pitch which looks intimidating but is the most conventional. Competent team required; not one to fall off!! We put some new rap tat in place, on a thread to right (looking out) from the end of the cable
with beckycoles, Tim Oates
Definitely an adventure! Good choice for a balmy October day (maybe the last day of summer?). Very very serious though. I went off route on the 3rd pitch and only redeemed myself by doing the crux pitch which looks intimidating but is the most conventional. Competent team required; not one to fall off!! We put some new rap tat in place, on a thread to right (looking out) from the end of the cable
with beckycoles, Tim Oates
justdoit 15 Sep, 2018 AltLd O/S very good fun adventure, but not very safe at all, think I placed about 5 bits of gear on the whole route. climbing is never very hard, but run out and defiantly no falling off. dislodged some big blocks as well, some nearly hitting my belayer (this made it even more interesting) would recommend, but not for first time HVS leaders.
very good fun adventure, but not very safe at all, think I placed about 5 bits of gear on the whole route. climbing is never very hard, but run out and defiantly no falling off. dislodged some big blocks as well, some nearly hitting my belayer (this made it even more interesting) would recommend, but not for first time HVS leaders.
Rich Cross - Alpine Guides 26 Nov, 2017 AltLd
tuftynick 26 Nov, 2017 AltLd Cold, windy and wet. Perfect.
Cold, windy and wet. Perfect.
foostu4 26 Sep, 2017 AltLd O/S Interesting route, the UKC description seems to vary from the North Wales Rock/ CC. P4 was absolutely disgusting!! Climbing mostly easy but bold, the crux is well protected. Final ridge scramble was spectacular and a wonderful finish!
Interesting route, the UKC description seems to vary from the North Wales Rock/ CC. P4 was absolutely disgusting!! Climbing mostly easy but bold, the crux is well protected. Final ridge scramble was spectacular and a wonderful finish!
ianstevens 1 Sep, 2017 AltLd O/S Solo P1, lead P3 and 5. Great route, but you wouldn't want to fall off and all the pegs are all pants, one even has a hole in it. Technically very easy (knock a letter grade off all the pitches as described in the CC guide) and only gets HVS for the situation.
with joedean
Solo P1, lead P3 and 5. Great route, but you wouldn't want to fall off and all the pegs are all pants, one even has a hole in it. Technically very easy (knock a letter grade off all the pitches as described in the CC guide) and only gets HVS for the situation.
with joedean
Matt Amos 27 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
Dexter JW 27 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
J_Spooner 10 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S Amazing! The exposure on the Belay before the 5a pitch is immense. A diving board 300ft above the sea! 70m Ab possible from end of cable from a block backed up with the cable. Alpine ridge scramble makes for an epic finish. 5 hours car to car.
with Matt Chinner
Amazing! The exposure on the Belay before the 5a pitch is immense. A diving board 300ft above the sea! 70m Ab possible from end of cable from a block backed up with the cable. Alpine ridge scramble makes for an epic finish. 5 hours car to car.
with Matt Chinner
philhilo 23 Oct, 2016 Lead O/S Bloomin eck, there was a lot more of that than expected. Had anticipated finishing in the dark, hadn't anticipated the three pitches of scrambling to finish. Would have been much quicker in the light, in dark and wind pitched it. Falling off the route anywhere not a good idea. Awesome honeymoon fun.
with heg
Bloomin eck, there was a lot more of that than expected. Had anticipated finishing in the dark, hadn't anticipated the three pitches of scrambling to finish. Would have been much quicker in the light, in dark and wind pitched it. Falling off the route anywhere not a good idea. Awesome honeymoon fun.
with heg
neal 12 Oct, 2016 AltLd O/S Abbed in on 70m rope, but scramble down would have been ok as dry. Led p2,4,6. Excellent route. Rock ok, stances reasonable, gear ok but spaced in places. Climbing prob at lower end of grades given. All pegs mention in NW Rock ok except the one in the groove on p4 - now totally rotten.
with Paul Dickson
Abbed in on 70m rope, but scramble down would have been ok as dry. Led p2,4,6. Excellent route. Rock ok, stances reasonable, gear ok but spaced in places. Climbing prob at lower end of grades given. All pegs mention in NW Rock ok except the one in the groove on p4 - now totally rotten.
with Paul Dickson
Hidden 12 Oct, 2016 AltLd
Hidden 17 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2016 -
Sut 12 Oct, 2015 Lead O/S
lanky 2 Jul, 2015 AltLd
with Tom
with Tom
Hidden 12 May, 2015 Lead
freemanTom 27 Sep, 2014 AltLd Real adventure. Did First pitch fine, freaked out slightly on the 3rd as scale and complexity of cliff becomes apparent. Cunningly avoided the crux and perched block of pitch. Belay ledge for crux pitch totally amazing. Let Ben have lead despite head game recovery. Final alpine ridge real surprise.
with Ben Pearce
Real adventure. Did First pitch fine, freaked out slightly on the 3rd as scale and complexity of cliff becomes apparent. Cunningly avoided the crux and perched block of pitch. Belay ledge for crux pitch totally amazing. Let Ben have lead despite head game recovery. Final alpine ridge real surprise.
with Ben Pearce
Hidden 20 Sep, 2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 11 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S
Fran Sgr 11 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S
with Ken
with Ken
Nick Biven ??, 2013 -
SamStokes 7 Oct, 2012 AltLd O/S Led pitches 2, 4 and 6! Amazing experience. Very bold but the stances were good and the climbing fantastic in great positions!
with Simon Lambert
Led pitches 2, 4 and 6! Amazing experience. Very bold but the stances were good and the climbing fantastic in great positions!
with Simon Lambert
Hidden ??, 2012 -
Hidden ??, 2012 -
harold walmsley 1 Sep, 2011 AltLd O/S A very good day out in perfect weather. OK technically but serious for HVS. 4c/5a climbing with poor gear. P4 seemed very hard for 4b (nearly 5a?).
with Mark Hounslea
A very good day out in perfect weather. OK technically but serious for HVS. 4c/5a climbing with poor gear. P4 seemed very hard for 4b (nearly 5a?).
with Mark Hounslea
Tim Sparrow 24 Aug, 2011 AltLd Rather early in the season so very aromatic. Most exciting once beyond the main nest zone.
with Geoff Thomas
Rather early in the season so very aromatic. Most exciting once beyond the main nest zone.
with Geoff Thomas
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Rory Shaw ??, 2011 -
PAJames ??, 2011 -
PAJames ??, 2011 -
Dave Turnbull, BMC 28 Oct, 2010 Lead Poor weather + Chris climbed in walking boots (forgot rock shoes)
with Chris Parkin
Poor weather + Chris climbed in walking boots (forgot rock shoes)
with Chris Parkin
Hidden 20 Sep, 2009 AltLd
Hidden 8 Sep, 2007 -
Brown 27 Aug, 2007 AltLd O/S
with Tom Bell
with Tom Bell
Hidden 17 Aug, 2007 AltLd
Luke Brooks 17 Aug, 2007 AltLd
Dave Rumney ?Aug, 2007 AltLd
Brian Wilderspin ?Aug, 2007 AltLd O/S
babymoac 22 Nov, 2003 AltLd
with GrahamD
with GrahamD
zero six ??, 2003 Lead O/S Led all pitches
Led all pitches
WB ?Aug, 1996 AltLd O/S
with GuyM
with GuyM
GuyM ??, 1996 -
with WB
with WB
NeilGriffiths 11 Feb, 1994 AltLd oops in a bird ban. Saw NO life of ANY kind all day.
with Richard Tanner
oops in a bird ban. Saw NO life of ANY kind all day.
with Richard Tanner
Hidden 10 Oct, 1992 AltLd
Hidden ??, 1990 AltLd
Dave Musgrove 27 Apr, 1969 AltLd A team of 7 of us on a big Rock and Ice day out. I recall Dez doing battle with a Shag with his peg-hammer (pre bird ban days of course) The Shag won!
with Nat Allen, Dez Hadlum, Dennis Gray, Bob Knapton
A team of 7 of us on a big Rock and Ice day out. I recall Dez doing battle with a Shag with his peg-hammer (pre bird ban days of course) The Shag won!
with Nat Allen, Dez Hadlum, Dennis Gray, Bob Knapton
mikej 22 Dec, 1968 AltLd dnf
with Wil Hurford
with Wil Hurford
uphillnow ?Apr, 1966 - About a week after it was put up - probably with Jim Williams - 3rd ascent
About a week after it was put up - probably with Jim Williams - 3rd ascent
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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 16
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 13
Votes cast 13
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Not Set