180m, 6 pitches. Approach down a rusty steel cable then descend the steep grassy slope to a rock ledge, abseil possible if desired (tat in place Sept 2017).

1) 40m. Traverse easily right across broken ledges to a large ledge on the arete, a rusty peg signals the belay.

2) 25m, 4a. Traverse up and right on ledges to the arete. Step up, and climb 10 m to a large ledge level with a flat topped spike.

3) 35m, 4c. Continue traversing right until below small overhangs. Continue to traverse along the easiest line beneath the overhangs moving up until a peg is reached. Move left here along diagonal ledges to a bay on the arete. Note the "perched block" described in the CC guide appears to have gone seaward.

4) 20m, 4b. Climb to a niche at the base of the steep groove, to clip to remnants of a peg, which can fortunately be backed up with nuts and a sling to the right. Step right and try to refrain your gag reflex as you pass a mountain of guano on a ledge. Step up and move right to an exposed belay on the arete.

5) 30m, 5a. Climb the roof above the belay (easier that it appears) to a large ledge. Move to the right hand end of this and up (two pegs) to a large flat hold on the right. Use this to gain a large grassy ledge, and ascend to the next, smaller grassy ledge. Move right using some sneaky holds to a large grassy bay, belay.

6) 30m, 4b. Head up the short black wall of the right hand side of the belay ledge. Follow the natural line up to steep grass and belay blocks.

You can either a) continue along the ridge (easy) b) abseil to the base of the quarry (careful not to jam your ropes) or c) walk/scramble down grassy rakes to the quarry base.

P Crew, I McNaught-Davis 04/Apr/1966

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, HVS Adventures, MIA logbook must haves!, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, Ultimate HVS ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), High Quality Adventure routes, 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs, Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist.


ClimberDateStyle
ianstevens 01/Sep AltLd O/S

Solo P1, lead P3 and 5. Great route, but you wouldn't want to fall off and all the pegs are all pants, one even has a hole in it. Technically very easy (knock a letter grade off all the pitches as described in the CC guide) and only gets HVS for the situation.

Matt Amos 27/Aug AltLd O/S
Hidden 27/Aug AltLd O/S
Dexter JW 27/Aug AltLd O/S
J_Spooner 10/Aug Lead O/S

Amazing! The exposure on the Belay before the 5a pitch is immense. A diving board 300ft above the sea! 70m Ab possible from end of cable from a block backed up with the cable. Alpine ridge scramble makes for an epic finish. 5 hours car to car.

with Matt Chinner
philhilo 23/Oct/16 Lead O/S

Bloomin eck, there was a lot more of that than expected. Had anticipated finishing in the dark, hadn't anticipated the three pitches of scrambling to finish. Would have been much quicker in the light, in dark and wind pitched it. Falling off the route anywhere not a good idea. Awesome honeymoon fun.

with Helen E
neal 12/Oct/16 AltLd O/S

Abbed in on 70m rope, but scramble down would have been ok as dry. Led p2,4,6. Excellent route. Rock ok, stances reasonable, gear ok but spaced in places. Climbing prob at lower end of grades given. All pegs mention in NW Rock ok except the one in the groove on p4 - now totally rotten.

with Paul Dickson
Hidden 12/Oct/16 AltLd
Hidden 17/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2016 -
lanky 02/Jul/15 AltLd
with Tom
Hidden 12/May/15 Lead
freemanTom 27/Sep/14 AltLd

Real adventure. Did First pitch fine, freaked out slightly on the 3rd as scale and complexity of cliff becomes apparent. Cunningly avoided the crux and perched block of pitch. Belay ledge for crux pitch totally amazing. Let Ben have lead despite head game recovery. Final alpine ridge real surprise.

with Ben Pearce
Hidden 20/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
Fran Sgr 11/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

with Ken
Nick Biven ??/2013 -
SamStokes 07/Oct/12 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 2, 4 and 6! Amazing experience. Very bold but the stances were good and the climbing fantastic in great positions!

with Simon Lambert
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
harold walmsley 01/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

A very good day out in perfect weather. OK technically but serious for HVS. 4c/5a climbing with poor gear. P4 seemed very hard for 4b (nearly 5a?).

with Mark Hounslea
Tim Sparrow 24/Aug/11 AltLd

Rather early in the season so very aromatic. Most exciting once beyond the main nest zone.

with Geoff Thomas
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
Dave Turnbull, BMC 28/Oct/10 Lead

Poor weather + Chris climbed in walking boots (forgot rock shoes)

with Chris Parkin
Hidden 20/Sep/09 AltLd
Hidden 08/Sep/07 -
Brown 27/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
with Tom Bell
Rob Grant 17/Aug/07 AltLd
Luke Brooks 17/Aug/07 AltLd
babymoac 22/Nov/03 AltLd
zero six ??/2003 Lead O/S

Led all pitches

WB ?/Aug/96 AltLd O/S
with Guy
GuyM ??/1996 -
with will
NeilGriffiths 11/Feb/94 AltLd

oops in a bird ban. Saw NO life of ANY kind all day.

with Richard Tanner
Hidden 10/Oct/92 AltLd
Hidden ??/1990 AltLd
Dave Musgrove 27/Apr/69 AltLd

A team of 7 of us on a big Rock and Ice day out. I recall Dez doing battle with a Shag with his peg-hammer (pre bird ban days of course) The Shag won!

with Nat Allen, Dez Hadlum, Dennis Gray, Bob Knapton
mikej 22/Dec/68 AltLd dnf
with Wil Hurford
uphillnow ?/Apr/66 -

About a week after it was put up - probably with Jim Williams - 3rd ascent

39 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 13
Votes cast 11
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Not Set