UKC

70m, 2 pitches. First pitch is graded Norsk 4+, climbs a shallow gully to a open corner, at the top of the corner, diagonally climb up to a perched block, a delicate series of high steps on rounded holds with no hands. This section is bold. Second pitch is -5, climb up thin cracks, into grassy bay. Climb the slab left of the grassy corner, no gear to above the crux, thin. After climb up and climb ascending feet traverse into the corner (next gear) and traverse horizontally right until a smooth true corner can be ascended to the top. Rope drag on both pitches is possible. This is graded Norsk -5, Warning! Poor protection on the second pitch until you’re above the crux. Many just climb the grassy corner. Do not try and equate this Norsk grade to UK grades it is wrong, as this would suggest VS 4b, which clearly this route is not. Route possible E1,5a

B. Hammer?s and K.S. Juhl 16/May/1968.

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High n5
Mid n5
Low n5
High n5-
Mid n5-
Low n5-
High n4+
Mid n4+
Low n4+
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Not Set
Route of Interest
Factotum

Grade: n5- ***
(Eikedalen)

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