Rockfax Description
A long mountaineering outing that has some excellent climbing in exposed positions. The ridge that links the buttress to the main cliff is unusual. Pay attention to the descent options, which are tricky and can be time consuming. Start on a worn series of foot-ledges 5m right of a tree.
1) 4a, 20m. Move up to a wide rib with a short ramp on its left. Gain the ramp and a spike runner at its top. Step right and pull up the short wall to easier ground and a belay ledge.
2) 4a, 20m. Climb the crack and spikes above to a thread, then take the open corner leftwards to a stance on the wall just left of the overhang/leaning wall.
3) 4a, 30m. Move right to some good holds on the wall above the overhang and traverse out to the arete and meet it level with an overlap. Follow the line of ribs and ledges to a belay in a vegetated bay.
4) 4a, 30m. Climb a short thin crack on the right side of the bay then continue up walls and cracks to a belay on a ridge.
5) 30m. The ridge past pinnacles leads to a col with steep gullies on either side. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Lakeland Revival 2015, Lakeland's Best Multi-pitch Routes up to HVS, Arc'teryx Lakeland Revival 2017, Mountaineering Routes in the Lake District

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Euan Rollinson 2 Nov, 2019 Lead O/S bottom 3 pitches good solid rock and climbing, top pitches bit more advantageous in the wet and mud. The pinnacle pitch was a nice surprise.
bottom 3 pitches good solid rock and climbing, top pitches bit more advantageous in the wet and mud. The pinnacle pitch was a nice surprise.
Matt Amos 2 Nov, 2019 AltLd O/S Really cool route
Really cool route
froglette 3 Aug, 2019 AltLd O/S
peakschris 3 Aug, 2019 AltLd O/S
Hidden 7 Jul, 2019 AltLd
yarbles 24 May, 2019 AltLd
Jennyallen 24 May, 2019 AltLd
Robshoo 5 May, 2019 AltLd O/S
Hidden 5 May, 2019 AltLd
beds74 5 May, 2019 AltLd Repeat ace route. Why was the abseil tat I placed last year removed and not replaced...? Did it look ugly from the path...? Rock n Ridge.co.uk
Repeat ace route. Why was the abseil tat I placed last year removed and not replaced...? Did it look ugly from the path...? Rock n Ridge.co.uk
stevelismore 4 May, 2019 AltLd O/S Lovely adventure-long drive and long walk-in so very little climbed, and a bit loose and dirty. Long sections of wading through semi-vertical banks of bilberry bushes!
with Sean PCC
Lovely adventure-long drive and long walk-in so very little climbed, and a bit loose and dirty. Long sections of wading through semi-vertical banks of bilberry bushes!
with Sean PCC
Maia 4 May, 2019 Lead O/S
with Lucy PCC
with Lucy PCC
Hidden 20 Apr, 2019 AltLd O/S
Hidden 16 Apr, 2019 AltLd O/S
Juliankitesurfer 16 Apr, 2019 AltLd Pretty tough move for a Severe on Pitch 1. But might have wondered off route.
Pretty tough move for a Severe on Pitch 1. But might have wondered off route.
Hidden 23 Nov, 2018 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23 Nov, 2018 AltLd O/S
Small and weak 27 Oct, 2018 AltLd Good choice for a very cold sunny day. Crag to ourselves.
Good choice for a very cold sunny day. Crag to ourselves.
Hidden 27 Oct, 2018 AltLd
charliesdad 17 Oct, 2018 AltLd Four pitches of lovely climbing.
with David Fisher
Four pitches of lovely climbing.
with David Fisher
JiveWeasel 8 Sep, 2018 AltLd O/S I led pitches 2 and 4. A bit of a Slug and Bogfest!
with Iain Lanky
I led pitches 2 and 4. A bit of a Slug and Bogfest!
with Iain Lanky
Hidden 8 Sep, 2018 AltLd O/S
net 31 Aug, 2018 AltLd Led p1 & 3. 'Alternative' left hand finish behind the pinnacle is definitely the best way to go at the top!
with George W
Led p1 & 3. 'Alternative' left hand finish behind the pinnacle is definitely the best way to go at the top!
with George W
Hidden 5 Aug, 2018 AltLd
John Holden 27 Jun, 2018 AltLd Swapped pitches this time, so we have both led all the route now. Abseiled off after the third pitch, no joy in the top pitch and long descent.
with Dorine Tinnion
Swapped pitches this time, so we have both led all the route now. Abseiled off after the third pitch, no joy in the top pitch and long descent.
with Dorine Tinnion
beds74 26 Jun, 2018 Lead Lovely, lovely line. Checking it for clients, 3C is wrong! 4a/b in parts, easy steady climbing with good gear.
with Craig Hartley
Lovely, lovely line. Checking it for clients, 3C is wrong! 4a/b in parts, easy steady climbing with good gear.
with Craig Hartley
farmus21 25 Jun, 2018 Solo
Hidden 24 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S
MazElden 24 Jun, 2018 AltLd
Hidden 17 May, 2018 AltLd O/S
Hidden 17 May, 2018 AltLd
joe.91 17 May, 2018 AltLd O/S Another adventure climb with Ric, 150m mountain route not bad for an afterwork hit! Topped out via the gully above, puller a small (read large) block off which added spice. Descended via the grass gully to the left of the route. There's tat on the top of P3 if you want to abb but wouldn't recommend, reckon ropes would get stuck.
Another adventure climb with Ric, 150m mountain route not bad for an afterwork hit! Topped out via the gully above, puller a small (read large) block off which added spice. Descended via the grass gully to the left of the route. There's tat on the top of P3 if you want to abb but wouldn't recommend, reckon ropes would get stuck.
rpettit 13 May, 2018 2nd
James_Kendal 13 May, 2018 Lead
with rpettit
with rpettit
farmus21 ??, 2018 - Lovely as ever. The traverse is where its at.
Lovely as ever. The traverse is where its at.
PaulJepson 17 Nov, 2017 AltLd O/S Late start, cold & wet. Lead 1st, 3rd and last half of 4th pitch where Mike got stuck. Also stayed roped up to go across the pinnacles at the top. Then the descent. Don't even start me on the descent! A choss gully in the dark before a long walk-off. Bit of an epic but what did I expect on a November day in Cumbria.
with Mike Roberts
Late start, cold & wet. Lead 1st, 3rd and last half of 4th pitch where Mike got stuck. Also stayed roped up to go across the pinnacles at the top. Then the descent. Don't even start me on the descent! A choss gully in the dark before a long walk-off. Bit of an epic but what did I expect on a November day in Cumbria.
with Mike Roberts
Iain Thow 16 Nov, 2017 AltLd
with Chris Dodd
with Chris Dodd
John Holden 2 Nov, 2017 AltLd A stupendous route in a truly beautiful valley. Quite an epic day which could have been made easier by adseiling from the third belay. When I go back I will be taking some 11mm rope and a good Mailon to back up the belay and make a good abseil station. The top out and decent was fun and exciting but took ages.
with Dorine Tinnion
A stupendous route in a truly beautiful valley. Quite an epic day which could have been made easier by adseiling from the third belay. When I go back I will be taking some 11mm rope and a good Mailon to back up the belay and make a good abseil station. The top out and decent was fun and exciting but took ages.
with Dorine Tinnion
guisboro andy 8 Oct, 2017 -
jonnysims 8 Oct, 2017 AltLd O/S
Andrew Knight 8 Oct, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Dave Everett
with Dave Everett
Hidden 5 Oct, 2017 Lead O/S
jgordon75 24 Sep, 2017 Lead O/S
with Sam Raphael, Aaron Brown
with Sam Raphael, Aaron Brown
codan 12 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S Pleasant climbing, difficult walk off.
with Jill Hunter
Pleasant climbing, difficult walk off.
with Jill Hunter
K Mckay 12 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S P1 and P3
with Neil KMC
P1 and P3
with Neil KMC
nigelw 12 Jul, 2017 2nd
with KMC
with KMC
Ken Taylor 12 Jul, 2017 AltLd
with Richard Langthorp
with Richard Langthorp
JoRodham 11 Jul, 2017 2nd
Danny Crump 26 Jun, 2017 Lead
with Luke Fitz-John
with Luke Fitz-John
Hidden 3 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S
tobyk 8 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S
with Emma Knights
with Emma Knights
Hidden 9 Mar, 2017 AltLd O/S
AnitaClimb 9 Mar, 2017 AltLd O/S
mark v 29 Dec, 2016 2nd
with Mike Norbury
with Mike Norbury
Hidden 7 Oct, 2016 AltLd
Hidden 14 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
Hidden 14 Aug, 2016 AltLd
john jennings 5 Jul, 2016 AltLd Super route with a mountaineering atmosphere.
with Conan, Cliff
Super route with a mountaineering atmosphere.
with Conan, Cliff
brockers 26 Sep, 2015 AltLd Had considered it as a potential teaching route with clients. The first 3 pitches were good, but the 4th and subsequent shinanegens to organise a descent makes the route inappropriate for teaching on. May be a guided route if weather further west is pants.
Had considered it as a potential teaching route with clients. The first 3 pitches were good, but the 4th and subsequent shinanegens to organise a descent makes the route inappropriate for teaching on. May be a guided route if weather further west is pants.
Elastic Jones 23 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S
Maria (Spanny) Xusa 22 Sep, 2015 2nd O/S
BnB 11 Aug, 2015 -
dakidunn 11 Aug, 2015 AltLd
with BnB
with BnB
Hidden 8 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S
tmawer 8 Aug, 2015 AltLd rpt
Andysomething 16 Jul, 2015 AltLd P2, P4 (variation finish up left hand groove). End of P3 and start of P4 heather and grass, but otherwise clean climbing
with Norman Bennett
P2, P4 (variation finish up left hand groove). End of P3 and start of P4 heather and grass, but otherwise clean climbing
with Norman Bennett
Hidden 15 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S
Rob84 11 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S Nice enough - strung the first two pitches together which is easily doable with a few long extenders. The descent takes longer than you think and covers some pretty steep grass slopes you wouldn't want to slip on - we were definitely glad to have carried trainers up
with mel_1
Nice enough - strung the first two pitches together which is easily doable with a few long extenders. The descent takes longer than you think and covers some pretty steep grass slopes you wouldn't want to slip on - we were definitely glad to have carried trainers up
with mel_1
Hidden 11 Jul, 2015 AltLd
Sue Underwood 4 Jul, 2015 2nd
with James Gooding
with James Gooding
James_Kendal 4 Jul, 2015 Lead Second time here, this is a great climb with a mountaineering feel, as long as you choose the "Alternative Finish" 4th pitch to the left which is excellent. Descent is tricky. The top-out puts you on a narrow ridge of large pinnacles. The ridge is traversed to a vegetated shoulder. The descent gully is to the right (facing the crag) from here, and includes a "diff down-climb" of about 4m which felt harder to me, I was glad to be on a backup rope and will abseil it next time. Then ascend over a second grassy shoulder and walk down from there. Bring suitable footwear for the steep grassy walk off. Be aware this climb may take longer than you expect. We were in no hurry and spent 5 hours including descent, if we were rushing it might have been 4.
Second time here, this is a great climb with a mountaineering feel, as long as you choose the "Alternative Finish" 4th pitch to the left which is excellent. Descent is tricky. The top-out puts you on a narrow ridge of large pinnacles. The ridge is traversed to a vegetated shoulder. The descent gully is to the right (facing the crag) from here, and includes a "diff down-climb" of about 4m which felt harder to me, I was glad to be on a backup rope and will abseil it next time. Then ascend over a second grassy shoulder and walk down from there. Bring suitable footwear for the steep grassy walk off. Be aware this climb may take longer than you expect. We were in no hurry and spent 5 hours including descent, if we were rushing it might have been 4.
farmus21 12 Jun, 2015 Lead
with Kathy
with Kathy
ajsburns 4 Apr, 2015 AltLd I lead 2 & (the rubbish) 4th pitch, otherwise very enjoyable
with Chris
I lead 2 & (the rubbish) 4th pitch, otherwise very enjoyable
with Chris
RM199 30 Dec, 2014 AltLd O/S
David_Gledson 8 Sep, 2014 AltLd I did the traverse pitch. Nice route until the top where it deteriates into rubbish
with Arty
I did the traverse pitch. Nice route until the top where it deteriates into rubbish
with Arty
Arty 8 Sep, 2014 AltLd tres crap finish - better in trainers
tres crap finish - better in trainers
bsparky 23 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S Add two pitches of easy climbing to escape from the top and allow a couple of hours for the decent. The top of the third pitch requires the use of green holds (grass and heather) as it is so over-grown. Quite an adventure!
with Ralphus
Add two pitches of easy climbing to escape from the top and allow a couple of hours for the decent. The top of the third pitch requires the use of green holds (grass and heather) as it is so over-grown. Quite an adventure!
with Ralphus
James_Kendal 29 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S The standard pitch 4 is terrible. Couldn't see the descent gully in the dark, so we added two pitches to get to safe ground on the very top of the crag and walked off another way. Might have been quite a fun mountaineering finish if it was still light!
The standard pitch 4 is terrible. Couldn't see the descent gully in the dark, so we added two pitches to get to safe ground on the very top of the crag and walked off another way. Might have been quite a fun mountaineering finish if it was still light!
Sue Underwood 29 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S Some good bits but lots of vegetated bits that spoiled it really. Not an easy top out - added two pitches for safety. James enjoyed the ridge - our unofficial pitch 5.
with James Gooding
Some good bits but lots of vegetated bits that spoiled it really. Not an easy top out - added two pitches for safety. James enjoyed the ridge - our unofficial pitch 5.
with James Gooding
Chelsey Robinson 12 Jun, 2014 2nd O/S
joe hallam 12 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S choose alternate last pitch, maybe got lost as it felt a little more like vs but hs but was nice climbing nonetheless.
with Chelsey Robinson, matt dudman
choose alternate last pitch, maybe got lost as it felt a little more like vs but hs but was nice climbing nonetheless.
with Chelsey Robinson, matt dudman
Rog Wilko 26 Aug, 2013 AltLd Twenty years since I first did this route so had forgotten any detail. It is a really worthwhile mountaineering route (meaning there is some steep pasture on one pitch and the descent requires a bit of hillcraft) a bit along the lines of Gillercombe Buttress. The left-hand finish is equally as good as pitches 1 - 3 and recommended. Unfortunately pitch 1 has a crux way harder than anything else on the route - more like HS. DO TAKE YOUR APPROACH SHOES FOR THE DESCENT!
with Pete Nugent
Twenty years since I first did this route so had forgotten any detail. It is a really worthwhile mountaineering route (meaning there is some steep pasture on one pitch and the descent requires a bit of hillcraft) a bit along the lines of Gillercombe Buttress. The left-hand finish is equally as good as pitches 1 - 3 and recommended. Unfortunately pitch 1 has a crux way harder than anything else on the route - more like HS. DO TAKE YOUR APPROACH SHOES FOR THE DESCENT!
with Pete Nugent
Pete Nugent 26 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S I led p2&4. Hot sunny Bank Holiday - had the crag to ourselves. 2 teams arrived as we were finishing. Painful walk off in rock shoes! P4, Chose alternative finish - very good
I led p2&4. Hot sunny Bank Holiday - had the crag to ourselves. 2 teams arrived as we were finishing. Painful walk off in rock shoes! P4, Chose alternative finish - very good
bobjohnston 22 Aug, 2013 Lead
Little B 24 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S a nice route - enjoyed it all the way - even the bizarre topping out, when we had another 2 pitches to get to something safe to descend.
with Jane
a nice route - enjoyed it all the way - even the bizarre topping out, when we had another 2 pitches to get to something safe to descend.
with Jane
Saintly 15 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S Give your self enough time for the descent as it can take a fair while to get back off the top.
with Em
Give your self enough time for the descent as it can take a fair while to get back off the top.
with Em
Hidden 11 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 26 May, 2013 AltLd
JohnMetcalfe 26 May, 2013 AltLd
Peter Metcalfe 26 May, 2013 AltLd
baldy.matt ??, 2013 -
JohnMetcalfe 7 Oct, 2012 AltLd O/S
with Peter Metcalfe
with Peter Metcalfe
net 22 Sep, 2012 AltLd Still don't know where p4 goes 10 years after I first got lost on this...
Still don't know where p4 goes 10 years after I first got lost on this...
JohnMetcalfe 22 Sep, 2012 AltLd
Hidden 22 Sep, 2012 AltLd
Peter Metcalfe 22 Sep, 2012 AltLd
gav 15 Sep, 2012 AltLd O/S Great first three pitches. Protection bit sparse early on. Top pitch rubbish. Lead 1 and 3. Sadly lacking in bilberries.
with Mark
Great first three pitches. Protection bit sparse early on. Top pitch rubbish. Lead 1 and 3. Sadly lacking in bilberries.
with Mark
Hidden 9 Aug, 2012 2nd
bigglesbutcha 20 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S All the Billberry's had gone! Paul led P1 and P4, Steve P2, me 3 and 5 (along the excellent spine).
with Paul Horabin, steven
All the Billberry's had gone! Paul led P1 and P4, Steve P2, me 3 and 5 (along the excellent spine).
with Paul Horabin, steven
steven 20 Jul, 2012 AltLd
with Paul Horabin, Tim Butcher
with Paul Horabin, Tim Butcher
Conan 1 Oct, 2011 AltLd O/S
Hidden 31 Jul, 2011 AltLd
tmawer 31 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S Led pitch 3. A really good little expedition.
with sarah, pork pie girl
Led pitch 3. A really good little expedition.
with sarah, pork pie girl
Hidden 31 Jul, 2011 AltLd
johnjb 8 Aug, 2010 2nd O/S Traverse across to right above overhang on pitch 2 looked quite bold for severe, but holds were good. Ate loads of juicy bilberries towards/ on top. Belayed the first part of the descent. OK thereafter.
with Ian Moore
Traverse across to right above overhang on pitch 2 looked quite bold for severe, but holds were good. Ate loads of juicy bilberries towards/ on top. Belayed the first part of the descent. OK thereafter.
with Ian Moore
Hidden 6 Jul, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2010 -
Hidden ??, 2008 -
peas65 ?Sep, 2007 - hmmm interesting finish. Nuff said
hmmm interesting finish. Nuff said
Hidden 4 Feb, 2007 2nd
nunnyboy ??, 2007 AltLd missed the supposed 'proper' descent route and carried on up to the top of the crag for another 4 pitches across a ridge, a worthwhile mistake because the listed descent looks terrible.
missed the supposed 'proper' descent route and carried on up to the top of the crag for another 4 pitches across a ridge, a worthwhile mistake because the listed descent looks terrible.
Iain Brown 30 Jul, 2006 -
with Ricardo
with Ricardo
Simon Caldwell 9 Jul, 2005 AltLd O/S
with Lemming
with Lemming
MaNimal 10 Jun, 2004 Lead
with Piotr Juziuk
with Piotr Juziuk
Hidden 8 Jul, 2002 AltLd
net ?Jun, 2002 2nd
with Rob
with Rob
Hidden ?Sep, 2000 -
Mick King 16 Jul, 2000 Lead O/S
with Steve Brodie
with Steve Brodie
Shaw Brown 25 Jun, 2000 Lead
with Craig
with Craig
steve prior ?Apr, 1998 AltLd
with Roz C
with Roz C
babymoac 24 Aug, 1997 AltLd
with Pete D, Gordon C
with Pete D, Gordon C
pasbury 1 Jun, 1996 Solo O/S
EddieA 13 Apr, 1995 AltLd
with Simon W
with Simon W
Rog Wilko ?Apr, 1993 Lead
with Debbie Wilkinson
with Debbie Wilkinson
PeteCheung ??, 1990 AltLd
Hidden 13 Sep, 1981 Solo
Hidden 13 Sep, 1981 Solo
Hidden 10 Aug, 1979 Lead O/S
Hidden 11 May, 1975 AltLd O/S
Martin Bennett 18 May, 1974 Solo
Hidden 8 Aug, 1965 Lead
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Voting
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
Votes cast 26
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 19
Votes cast 21
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Not Set