1000m.

Rockfax Description
III, 1100m, 4 - 5 hours. An excellent introduction to the world of alpine north faces, the Mallory-Porter is essentially a long snow climb, but a serious one. Protection is not easy to find so, despite the relatively amenable climbing, don't underestimate this one. The good news is that it is about as simple and logistically easy a north face as you will find, with a short approach and a lift descent. The route is dependent on having snow, which it usually does until early summer. It is best done after a good freeze in spring.
Approach - From the Plan de l'Aiguille, follow a path up the moraine to the left of the toe of the Glacier des Pélerins. Cross the glacier where the path runs out above Pointe 2468 and head directly for the foot of the route, passing underneath the Frendo Spur. There is some serac danger towards the end of the approach, so don't pause for a break until at the very start of the route.
1) Follow a 45 degree snow gully, which is hidden during the approach, and then continue rightwards up the 50 degree ramp into the middle of the buttress.
2) Climb the left-leaning open slabby corner for 25m to an exit onto a short snowfield (Scottish III ).
3) Head up the snowfield to its top right corner and then continue up steep snow, hugging the rock buttress on the right, which gradually pushes you diagonally left to the top of the central snowfield.
4) From here, go straight up a short, exposed step and then climb the 55 degree gully which leads to the 'Demi-lune', the col where the Mallory-Porter joins the Eugster Direct.
5) Climb the upper snowfield before making a long traverse leftwards to reach the foot of the Aiguille du Midi ridge. Pay attention to crevasses on the traverse which can be quite open, even in spring.
Descent - Take the lift down! © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Takes a winding route up the north face of the Midi, finally ascending under the line of the lift for the last 300m. First skied in 1977.

George Leigh Mallory and H. E. L. Porter 05/Aug/1919

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
James Rigby 17 Jun AltLd O/S
with Tom Alford
with Tom Alford
Hidden 17 Jun AltLd O/S
Cbulman 16 Jun Solo
smithjake16 22 Apr Lead O/S Started at the parking in Grepon which definitely made it harder. Used the rope for two sections although it wasn't really required. Missed the lift and spent the night in the toilets :) 3hours walking up to plan d'aguille 2 hours approach about 7 hours on the route maybe a bit longer
Started at the parking in Grepon which definitely made it harder. Used the rope for two sections although it wasn't really required. Missed the lift and spent the night in the toilets :) 3hours walking up to plan d'aguille 2 hours approach about 7 hours on the route maybe a bit longer
Hidden 25 Mar Lead rpt
Adam Booth 25 Mar AltLd O/S 5hrs bin to bin. Soloed most of it, but had gear in the lower rock crux and screws in the ice at the top.
with Jon Gupta
5hrs bin to bin. Soloed most of it, but had gear in the lower rock crux and screws in the ice at the top.
with Jon Gupta
ndraper1 24 Mar Solo O/S
DigitalSteak 24 Mar Solo O/S 3h15 bin to bin
3h15 bin to bin
Big Lee 22 Mar AltLd O/S Started from the Refuge du plan de l'aiguille around 4am, and at the base of the route around 6am. Topped out around 1:15pm, so 7:15 hours on the route. A lot of unconsolidated snow in the lower half of the route, which slowed the pace, although there were tracks from a previous party which helped. Finished more direct up the black ice at the top, rather than traverse left. Fairly steady for the large part but an excellent route.
Started from the Refuge du plan de l'aiguille around 4am, and at the base of the route around 6am. Topped out around 1:15pm, so 7:15 hours on the route. A lot of unconsolidated snow in the lower half of the route, which slowed the pace, although there were tracks from a previous party which helped. Finished more direct up the black ice at the top, rather than traverse left. Fairly steady for the large part but an excellent route.
robgixer 22 Mar AltLd
with Big Lee
with Big Lee
ilbuiz 28 Feb Lead O/S So many people on the climb despite being a working day :D This created a couple of bottlenecks, but it was to be expected given the recent reports. Overall, nice day in superb place, on a quite doable climb.
with Renata P.
So many people on the climb despite being a working day :D This created a couple of bottlenecks, but it was to be expected given the recent reports. Overall, nice day in superb place, on a quite doable climb.
with Renata P.
Tom Seccombe 28 Feb AltLd O/S
Hidden 28 Feb AltLd
Hidden 28 Feb -
nbryant 27 Feb 2nd O/S
with Daniel Catalin Pobega
with Daniel Catalin Pobega
QuentinSu 26 Feb Lead O/S
Hidden 23 Feb AltLd
keith leonard 19 Feb AltLd
JoeCoxson 31 Dec, 2016 AltLd O/S Cracking route, with a lot more ice on it at the moment that normal I'm sure. 6hrs on the route, a little over 8 hours bin to bin. Amazing end to 2016.
Cracking route, with a lot more ice on it at the moment that normal I'm sure. 6hrs on the route, a little over 8 hours bin to bin. Amazing end to 2016.
lukegorman 31 Dec, 2016 AltLd O/S moving together for the most part. truly amazing route. just keep going!
moving together for the most part. truly amazing route. just keep going!
Hidden 1 Jan, 2016 Solo
jimmatthews 1 Jan, 2016 Solo O/S New Years Day. Soloed, from ~10am bin. 3hrs20 - feeling tired. Got cold waiting behind people near the top. Ice near the top was a little grey. Good day.
New Years Day. Soloed, from ~10am bin. 3hrs20 - feeling tired. Got cold waiting behind people near the top. Ice near the top was a little grey. Good day.
Rob84 30 Dec, 2015 -
with Mike D
with Mike D
Mihkel 30 Dec, 2015 Lead O/S 6 hrs. I was in lead throughout, though 90% was moving together. Vast majority is grade I / II snow, with a couple of rock steps and bit of ice at the end. Not a rapid ascent but a nice route. I experimented with glove systems and climbed the route in thin fleece gloves - this was suprisingly adequate (for a winter n face) when constantly moving on easyish terrain, but - lesson learnt! - in future be sure to switch to thicker climbing gloves when the terrain gets a bit steeper and you're obliged to swing axes above your head. I decided to push my hands a little too far and frost-nipped my fingers (which took 3+ months to regain full sensitivity... silly).
with Rob84
6 hrs. I was in lead throughout, though 90% was moving together. Vast majority is grade I / II snow, with a couple of rock steps and bit of ice at the end. Not a rapid ascent but a nice route. I experimented with glove systems and climbed the route in thin fleece gloves - this was suprisingly adequate (for a winter n face) when constantly moving on easyish terrain, but - lesson learnt! - in future be sure to switch to thicker climbing gloves when the terrain gets a bit steeper and you're obliged to swing axes above your head. I decided to push my hands a little too far and frost-nipped my fingers (which took 3+ months to regain full sensitivity... silly).
with Rob84
Hidden 29 Dec, 2015 Solo
rcollins 11 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S Sugary snow made for slow going on the upper snow slopes. Topped out later than planned.
with Thomas Shaw
Sugary snow made for slow going on the upper snow slopes. Topped out later than planned.
with Thomas Shaw
Hidden 11 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S
Hidden 11 Jun, 2013 Solo O/S
Steve Kempley 30 May, 2011 AltLd β Great day out on the Aiguille du Midi, not technically hard but tremendous situations, great variations in the route, quite a bit of soft snow and a long ascent. Topped out before the last 'frique down and before the evening thunderstorms arrived ... so all told a great day out and a perfect weekend trip to Chamonix.
with Gus
Great day out on the Aiguille du Midi, not technically hard but tremendous situations, great variations in the route, quite a bit of soft snow and a long ascent. Topped out before the last 'frique down and before the evening thunderstorms arrived ... so all told a great day out and a perfect weekend trip to Chamonix.
with Gus
Ben Briggs ?May, 2011 - Ski decent, little snow cover on the cruxes.
with Cedric, Luca
Ski decent, little snow cover on the cruxes.
with Cedric, Luca
Hidden 25 May, 2010 AltLd O/S
Ben Briggs ?May, 2009 - Skied the route as a descent great powder to the demi lune but very hard snow lower down, super exposed!
with Brendan
Skied the route as a descent great powder to the demi lune but very hard snow lower down, super exposed!
with Brendan
Oliver Sherman 14 Apr, 2009 AltLd Lead first 950m with Mark, then final 50m lead by Christophe Profit while he was rescuing us at 2 in the morning. A memorable day out.
with Mark Call
Lead first 950m with Mark, then final 50m lead by Christophe Profit while he was rescuing us at 2 in the morning. A memorable day out.
with Mark Call
Richard Weller ?Aug, 1980 AltLd A bit of an epic. We were off route, and with poor weather (snow and wind) arriving had to bivouac. We just picked our way up what seemed the easiest line in very poor visibility on day two, but one of my crampons broke and we had to cut steps. I then fell on a traverse and the other crampon was ripped from my boot. Very slow going as a result and we had to bivouac on the rocks about 100m below the summit and the cable car station. The weather was bad enough to stop any cable cars running on the second day. We were lowered a rope from the cable car station and prussiked up it finish. The adventures of one's youth!
with Richard White
A bit of an epic. We were off route, and with poor weather (snow and wind) arriving had to bivouac. We just picked our way up what seemed the easiest line in very poor visibility on day two, but one of my crampons broke and we had to cut steps. I then fell on a traverse and the other crampon was ripped from my boot. Very slow going as a result and we had to bivouac on the rocks about 100m below the summit and the cable car station. The weather was bad enough to stop any cable cars running on the second day. We were lowered a rope from the cable car station and prussiked up it finish. The adventures of one's youth!
with Richard White
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