135m, 5 pitches. A recommended route with some fine climbing. Start about 8m below the white blaze.
1. 30m 4b Climb diagonally left up a slab to a corner left of the chimney on The Slant. Layback up the corner until it is possible to move right to a cracked slab which leads to a belay at the foot of a steep impressive wall.
2. 30m 5a Climb a small corner and cracks to gain the left side of a large sloping ledge about halfway up the steep wall. Gain the indistinct crack-line above from a perched block on the left, then follow this and the wider crack above through an overhang to a large ledge on Sunset Slab. An improbable pitch for the grade.
3. 20m 4a Climb the groove above the peg until an easy left traverse leads to a ledge at the foot of an obvious groove with a yellow left wall.
4. 30m 4c Move left around an edge into an exposed position and climb up left past an overhang to a basalt recess. Climb to a small well positioned ledge, then up a short wall to belay.
5. 25m Move right and finish up the painfully rough arete.
Variation: Yellow Walls Finish 60m HVS 5a ** (2005)
Instead of moving left on pitch 4 take the obvious groove with a yellow left wall, breaking left at the top to reach a second yellow wall (30m 5a). Follow the yellow groove beneath this wall to a large ledge and easier ground (30m 4c). This pitch includes at least part of the Yellow Groove Continuation to Sunset Slab.


Ticklists: Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes, Skye Rock.

AmyG 06/May/17 AltLd O/S

Climbed king cobra then this. No cloud in sight. Pitch 2 was amazing, hard for the grade though, I was glad Euan led. Feet were killing me from long day.

eaf4 06/May/17 AltLd O/S

Led main pitch and 4c pitch. Cracking route! Roasting in the afternoon sun. Better than king cobra, which we did in morning!

with AGoodi
Hidden ?/Jul/16 Lead O/S
Steve Waters, Mynydd 03/Jun/16 AltLd

Led P1 and P3. P1 was lovely - the layback crack exquisite. P2 was awesome... one of the best pitches I have ever climbed with an obvious climax looming ahead which wasn't as bad as it looked. P3 was way out and exciting - not much to hit if you came off. Altogether, a superb and highly memorable route that we will be talking about for a long time.

mtempest 03/Jun/16 AltLd

Led P2, 3 & 5

Hidden 30/May/16 AltLd O/S
spragglerocks 30/May/16 AltLd O/S

More like E1 5b which it is in the new edition of the selective Scottish North guidebook. Led p1, p3 and p4. Topo in said guidebook is crap.

with John
Grimpzen 09/May/16 AltLd
clmacdonald 17/Sep/14 AltLd
tskelhon 17/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Ditto on pitch 2, although I made the mistake of moving left rather than going through overhang at the end. Pretty damn spicey, especially with an alpine sac on! Quality line though

tomdude 09/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

glad other people found the second pitch hard too....! a great route indeed.

with ben wallace
James Oswald 16/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Lead 2 and 4. Lucky to get the best pitches. Simply superb but E1, not HVS. The undercut move is hard. Superb 2nd pitch on lovely gabbro

with Colin Angus
victim of mathematics 15/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Led P1, 3 & 5. P2 is probably worth E1 5b and is totally excellent. A great route, but getting back to the base of the route afterwards is a bit of a trek.

Neil Mackenzie 03/Jun/12 AltLd

topo in new skye guide unclear so we ended up starting on the slant, which was actually pretty tasty! felt p2 was pretty hard for HVS and i had to rest a couple of times but got up it in the end! amazing route

with AD
Will Hunt 08/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 1, 3, and 5 (the layback corner, easy groove and exposed traverse). Thought the exposed rising traverse pitch was worth 5a!

Hidden 08/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
burto 05/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
with the pimp
Phil Jennings 05/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
with Rozzy
Hertha 05/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

lead first, third and fourth pitch (HVS but easier than the second pitch that Calum lead. ace exposure.

with Calum
pimpy 05/Jun/10 AltLd

led pitch 1, hungover

Hidden 03/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
Captain Solo 30/May/09 AltLd

Felt quite serious on crux pitch E1?

with Mark
Mark Bannan 30/May/09 AltLd
Gudge ?/Jul/02 AltLd O/S
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