310m, 9 pitches.

Rockfax Description
(Heaven Can Wait) This brilliant route has some great climbing and a sensational finish high on the buttress. A large cam or two will come in useful. Almost as good as Vestpillaren Direct but likely to be a lot quieter.
1) N4+, 50m. As for pitch 1 of Vestpillaren, but move up to a left-trending groove. Follow this to a grassy ledge then move down left to belay at the foot of a wide crack.
2) N6+, 40m. Climb the wide crack - sustained, big cams helpful - until it curves over and forms a flake. Either climb the arete on the left, or the tough thin crack up and right at grade 7. Belay on the ledges just above.
3) N3+, 30m. Up easy ground to a belay at the foot of a groove.
4) N6-, 40m. Climb the face right of a blank leaning corner and the continuation crack to the right to reach a stance on the left.
5) N5-, 40m. Climb the big leaning corner (part of The Codfather) almost to its end, then head out left to a belay.
6) N6+, 35m. Continue up the nice technical corner to the stance below the 'Slanting Corner' on Vestpillaren Direct.
7) N6+, 45m. Move left into a groove, head up this then move left again. Continue leftwards past a second overlap to a right-leaning groove. Climb this to a stance on the left.
8) N6+, 35m. Climb up and left into a long crack and follow this to a wild stance under the roof that caps the wall.
9) N6+, 25m. Traverse left under overhang, climb the corner, and then move out right under the overhang to a sudden ending.
7a) to 9a) There is variation to the left of the last two pitches that is said to be easier and more logical than the normal finish at around N6-/N6. © Rockfax

P. Fransson, T. Enevold 15/Jun/1997

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Lofoten Rock Top 50

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Nicholas Wylie 13 Aug AltLd Great climbing if the route finding is successful! Done with less than half my usual rack which meant for ridiculous run-outs that made it equivalent to around E4 in points. Overall would be more like E3 with a proper rack.
with Anna Zhang
Great climbing if the route finding is successful! Done with less than half my usual rack which meant for ridiculous run-outs that made it equivalent to around E4 in points. Overall would be more like E3 with a proper rack.
with Anna Zhang
davkeo 29 Jul AltLd O/S P2,3,5,7,9. Not as good as Vestpillaren Direct but pretty amazing all the same. All the 6a+ pitches are brilliant with some wild exposure on the top 2. Skipped the offwidth section of p2 by starting higher & traversing in via a lovely hand crack. Cheating maybe but it saved us taking the big cam. An excellent pitch with an airy finish up the arete.
P2,3,5,7,9. Not as good as Vestpillaren Direct but pretty amazing all the same. All the 6a+ pitches are brilliant with some wild exposure on the top 2. Skipped the offwidth section of p2 by starting higher & traversing in via a lovely hand crack. Cheating maybe but it saved us taking the big cam. An excellent pitch with an airy finish up the arete.
Chris Hindley 16 Jul AltLd Nearly as good as VP, all 5 N6+ pitches deserving the grade. P2 crack brilliant, I used F5 in lower wide bit then walked F4 up the easier upper wide section, which felt adequate to me. More big cams would soften, but they're absolutely redundant beyond P2. P8 is a fantastic sustained crack, 5.10b & 3* in anyone's language.
with pw
Nearly as good as VP, all 5 N6+ pitches deserving the grade. P2 crack brilliant, I used F5 in lower wide bit then walked F4 up the easier upper wide section, which felt adequate to me. More big cams would soften, but they're absolutely redundant beyond P2. P8 is a fantastic sustained crack, 5.10b & 3* in anyone's language.
with pw
David Craig 16 Jul AltLd dnf First 3 pitches then bailed as too cold for us wimps. Pitch 2 is a cracker, starts with offwidtgh that's maybe British 5a bring large cam (head sized) and silver camalot for fist crack above. Finish on the arete is easier than it looks and protectable with micro wire.
with Sile Daly
First 3 pitches then bailed as too cold for us wimps. Pitch 2 is a cracker, starts with offwidtgh that's maybe British 5a bring large cam (head sized) and silver camalot for fist crack above. Finish on the arete is easier than it looks and protectable with micro wire.
with Sile Daly
Psk94 27 Apr Lead O/S Trenger store cammer for andre taulengde! Størrelse 5 (x2) og 6 (x1)!
with Jarl Gåsvær, Sigrid Baumberger
Trenger store cammer for andre taulengde! Størrelse 5 (x2) og 6 (x1)!
with Jarl Gåsvær, Sigrid Baumberger
eddy-on-the-rocks 26 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
Miki the Red 25 Aug, 2017 -
ThunderBeest 8 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S Not sustained at all. Some nice parts but too many boring parts. Not getting your rope stuck after the roof is the crux. Enjoyed the slab and did the compression bulge on the left.
with Lasse
Not sustained at all. Some nice parts but too many boring parts. Not getting your rope stuck after the roof is the crux. Enjoyed the slab and did the compression bulge on the left.
with Lasse
Hidden 21 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S
alexm198 18 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S Holy shit, what a route! Led odds. The "poorly protected slab" is actually straightforward and has decent runners, though it is a little run out. The last pitch under the roof is stunning.
Holy shit, what a route! Led odds. The "poorly protected slab" is actually straightforward and has decent runners, though it is a little run out. The last pitch under the roof is stunning.
Matt Harle 18 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
Pippa 4 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S Lead the odd pitches. Jam did amazingly well freeing the 7 version of pitch 2. Really struggled with the off width a size 4 cam would have helped. The crack in the overhang was tricky but the hard move is up a really thin crack. Managed to do it clean. Some easy scrambling to pitch 4. Half way up the slanting corner slab the crack runs out and it would have been impossible to lead at 6- so Jam stepped right. I tried it on top rope and it was only just climbable on friction alone and palming on the left wall, but would have been scary as hell. Perhaps it goes up the slab to the left and arête rather than the corner? The Swiss team behind us didn't know or care. Pitch 5 was a nice climb up the corner with a tricky exit onto the ledge on the left. Nice technical climbing up the thin crack above. Pitch 7 was actually quite well protected and fairly obvious at the start up the right side of a small triangular niche and then the widest part of the overlap on the left. Then a slab traverse up and left with good cams below. Tiny wires in a small corner then headed up to the crack on the right because the rockfax update suggests this but the crack runs out and it was hard to see the belay above. Shouted to some Norweigans above us who said to traverse back left and up a dihedral. Had to belay at the base of this corner and at the top again to make it. 30m? hmmmmm. Jam did really well again on the technical thin flake above. Really nice climbing. I lead the final roof pitch with dreadful rope drag, got one rope jammed in the crack at the end of the first roof and had to haul myself onto my knees fighting the rope over the second roof. Belayed here and then made the 50m scramble to the top on gear as it feels a bit loose. Great day out. Finished with a gig on Festvastingen by a Norweigan singer song writer, a beautiful sunset and hundreds of people.
Lead the odd pitches. Jam did amazingly well freeing the 7 version of pitch 2. Really struggled with the off width a size 4 cam would have helped. The crack in the overhang was tricky but the hard move is up a really thin crack. Managed to do it clean. Some easy scrambling to pitch 4. Half way up the slanting corner slab the crack runs out and it would have been impossible to lead at 6- so Jam stepped right. I tried it on top rope and it was only just climbable on friction alone and palming on the left wall, but would have been scary as hell. Perhaps it goes up the slab to the left and arête rather than the corner? The Swiss team behind us didn't know or care. Pitch 5 was a nice climb up the corner with a tricky exit onto the ledge on the left. Nice technical climbing up the thin crack above. Pitch 7 was actually quite well protected and fairly obvious at the start up the right side of a small triangular niche and then the widest part of the overlap on the left. Then a slab traverse up and left with good cams below. Tiny wires in a small corner then headed up to the crack on the right because the rockfax update suggests this but the crack runs out and it was hard to see the belay above. Shouted to some Norweigans above us who said to traverse back left and up a dihedral. Had to belay at the base of this corner and at the top again to make it. 30m? hmmmmm. Jam did really well again on the technical thin flake above. Really nice climbing. I lead the final roof pitch with dreadful rope drag, got one rope jammed in the crack at the end of the first roof and had to haul myself onto my knees fighting the rope over the second roof. Belayed here and then made the 50m scramble to the top on gear as it feels a bit loose. Great day out. Finished with a gig on Festvastingen by a Norweigan singer song writer, a beautiful sunset and hundreds of people.
valecoastclimber 22 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
Hidden 1 Aug, 2012 AltLd
Hidden 7 Jul, 2011 Lead
Jonas Wiklund ?Jul, 2009 AltLd O/S The slab on pitch 7 is well protected on the hard bit. As good as Vestpillaren but considerable less crowded.
with Joakim S?derstr?m, Tommy Nilsson
The slab on pitch 7 is well protected on the hard bit. As good as Vestpillaren but considerable less crowded.
with Joakim S?derstr?m, Tommy Nilsson
Alasdair Fulton 8 Jun, 2009 AltLd O/S We did a variation at pitch 7, doing one pitch of Vestpillaren Alternative Finish. Once again, outstanding route!
We did a variation at pitch 7, doing one pitch of Vestpillaren Alternative Finish. Once again, outstanding route!
andyinglis 8 Jun, 2009 AltLd O/S Took Vespillaren original route on pitch 7 instead of the unobvious poorly protected slab. Lots of great pitches especially the last 2!
Took Vespillaren original route on pitch 7 instead of the unobvious poorly protected slab. Lots of great pitches especially the last 2!
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Voting
High n7-
Mid n7-
Low n7-
High n6+
Mid n6+
Low n6+
High n6
Mid n6
Low n6
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 5
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Not Set