310m, 9 pitches.

Rockfax Description
(Heaven Can Wait) This brilliant route has some great climbing and a sensational finish high on the buttress. A large cam or two will come in useful. Almost as good as Vestpillaren Direct but likely to be a lot quieter.
1) N4+, 50m. As for pitch 1 of Vestpillaren, but move up to a left-trending groove. Follow this to a grassy ledge then move down left to belay at the foot of a wide crack.
2) N6+, 40m. Climb the wide crack - sustained, big cams helpful - until it curves over and forms a flake. Either climb the arete on the left, or the tough thin crack up and right at grade 7. Belay on the ledges just above.
3) N3+, 30m. Up easy ground to a belay at the foot of a groove.
4) N6-, 40m. Climb the face right of a blank leaning corner and the continuation crack to the right to reach a stance on the left.
5) N5-, 40m. Climb the big leaning corner (part of The Codfather) almost to its end, then head out left to a belay.
6) N6+, 35m. Continue up the nice technical corner to the stance below the 'Slanting Corner' on Vestpillaren Direct.
7) N6+, 45m. Move left into a groove, head up this then move left again. Continue leftwards past a second overlap to a right-leaning groove. Climb this to a stance on the left.
8) N6+, 35m. Climb up and left into a long crack and follow this to a wild stance under the roof that caps the wall.
9) N6+, 25m. Traverse left under overhang, climb the corner, and then move out right under the overhang to a sudden ending.
7a) to 9a) There is variation to the left of the last two pitches that is said to be easier and more logical than the normal finish at around N6-/N6. © Rockfax

P. Fransson, T. Enevold 15/Jun/1997

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Lofoten Rock Top 50.


ClimberDateStyle
alexm198 18/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Holy shit, what a route! Led odds. The "poorly protected slab" is actually straightforward and has decent runners, though it is a little run out. The last pitch under the roof is stunning.

Matt Harle 18/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
Pippa 04/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Lead the odd pitches. Jam did amazingly well freeing the 7 version of pitch 2. Really struggled with the off width a size 4 cam would have helped. The crack in the overhang was tricky but the hard move is up a really thin crack. Managed to do it clean. Some easy scrambling to pitch 4. Half way up the slanting corner slab the crack runs out and it would have been impossible to lead at 6- so Jam stepped right. I tried it on top rope and it was only just climbable on friction alone and palming on the left wall, but would have been scary as hell. Perhaps it goes up the slab to the left and arête rather than the corner? The Swiss team behind us didn't know or care. Pitch 5 was a nice climb up the corner with a tricky exit onto the ledge on the left. Nice technical climbing up the thin crack above. Pitch 7 was actually quite well protected and fairly obvious at the start up the right side of a small triangular niche and then the widest part of the overlap on the left. Then a slab traverse up and left with good cams below. Tiny wires in a small corner then headed up to the crack on the right because the rockfax update suggests this but the crack runs out and it was hard to see the belay above. Shouted to some Norweigans above us who said to traverse back left and up a dihedral. Had to belay at the base of this corner and at the top again to make it. 30m? hmmmmm. Jam did really well again on the technical thin flake above. Really nice climbing. I lead the final roof pitch with dreadful rope drag, got one rope jammed in the crack at the end of the first roof and had to haul myself onto my knees fighting the rope over the second roof. Belayed here and then made the 50m scramble to the top on gear as it feels a bit loose. Great day out. Finished with a gig on Festvastingen by a Norweigan singer song writer, a beautiful sunset and hundreds of people.

valecoastclimber 22/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 01/Aug/12 AltLd
Hidden 07/Jul/11 Lead
Jonas Wiklund ?/Jul/09 AltLd O/S

The slab on pitch 7 is well protected on the hard bit. As good as Vestpillaren but considerable less crowded.

with Joakim S?derstr?m, Tommy Nilsson
Alasdair Fulton 08/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

We did a variation at pitch 7, doing one pitch of Vestpillaren Alternative Finish. Once again, outstanding route!

andyinglis 08/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

Took Vespillaren original route on pitch 7 instead of the unobvious poorly protected slab. Lots of great pitches especially the last 2!

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