Rockfax Description
A fine climb up the thin cracks in the steep clean slab on the cliff's right-hand side. A full rack is required for the sustained second pitch. Scramble up an bushy ramp to a good ledge. The most popular route here by quite a margin.
1) N5, 30m. Climb up a short wall, then step left into the thin crack which is followed to a good belay ledge.
2) N7-, 35m. Jam up a crack on the right and step left to the base of a classic finger-crack in a steep slab. Climb this (very sustained) to a right-trending crack and a troublesome overlap. A difficult final move over this bulge gains a small stance.
3) N6, 30m. Climb straight up another steep vertical crack to easier climbing.
3a) N6-, 30m. The steep vertical crack can be avoided by climbing the crack on the right which leads back left to the top of the original crack.
4) N5-, 30m. Follow a finger-crack on the left, then go diagonally right up easy slabs. Finish up a short corner on the right. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
E3 6a
Ed Webster, T Enevold 12/Jul/1993.
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Grade: n7- ***
(Merraflestinden)