Rockfax Description
(The Journey) A tremendous climb on perfect rock up Presten's imposing central section. The route offers technical climbing on superb rock, but is poorly protected in several places - a UK grade of 'solid E4' has been suggested. A double rack of cams (micro to large) is recommended, plus a double rack and full range of wires. Begin a few metres to the right of the open groove of Ypperstepresten.
1) N5, 20m. Climb up a corner, over a roof, and up to a belay.
2) N5+, 50m. Head up and right following a curving finger-crack (the higher of a pair of near-parallel cracks) to a belay below the tall corner.
3) N6+, 30m. Climb up the corner to an awkward layback/chimney slot (possible belay halfway up the slot). Continue to a fixed belay at 52m.
4) N6+, 55m. Chimney up the slot for 10m more, then make a serious traverse left for 20m before climbing up 20m to a belay just above the left end of the Big Roof.
5) N7+, 30m. Climb the groove until it is possible to traverse right 2m to some holds leading up to a block in the roof. Now traverse right, out along the block, on better holds (bold), before climbing up to Storhylla - the big grassy ledge.
6) N6+, 40m. Head up and right on easy ground, then back left across a slab to a stance under a short, right-facing corner.
7) N6, 50m. Traverse left on big flakes to the left side of an arch (serious), then climb a crack to a stance below a finger-crack.
8) N6+, 55m. Jam up the finger-crack to reach a long groove which gives great climbing eventually reaching a belay.
9) N5+, 40m. Continue up the groove for 15m until it ends, then climb cracks to a stance below a right-facing corner on Vestpillaren.
10) N7, 40m. Climb the sustained groove as for Vestpillaren.
11) N7-, 30m. Continue up the corner past a hard bulge, then head up easier ground to the top. © Rockfax

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