The original route of the face. A fine long expedition forcing its way up the left-hand side of the face. Start at a prominent pillar that leads towards a chimney formed by a large flake and a groove to its right.
1) N6, 50m. Climb the pillar and then the chimney above before moving right and climbing the crack to a stance. Belay (large cam) below the continuation crack.
2) N5, 10m. Climb the crack then move left to a tree belay on the big ledge system. Move the belay rightwards to another tree.
3) N7-, 25m. Follow the groove left then straight up (3 pegs) to a small ledge. Undercut right and belay on cams above a flake.
4) N6+, 45m. Head up the curving orange groove, then continue direct (passing to the left of an abseil station) up the groove to a stance by the Big Roof.
5) N7, 20m. Traverse right then make hard moves up the overhanging crack (big cams) before continuing more easily to a small stance. A spectacular and exposed pitch.
6) N3, 15m. Straightforward slab climbing leads to a tree at the top of the crag. © Rockfax