UKC

9m. Climb crack with increasing difficulty as it thins then hard moves up to obvious sloping grey chickenhead. Follow a not so obvious sequence of tiny holds back right to above the crack, then make a lurch for the flat top. The gear is good and the falls quite long, time should be spent trying to get gear in the crack as high as possible.

M.Tweedley Aug/2001.

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User Date Notes
Si Witcher 10 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Stunning climb. Had a little session working this on a grigri to clean the top and try the moves. Given E6 6b in the Gary Latter guide and E5 6b/c in the 2014 SMC guide. I'd give it E6 6c for the onsight attempt - harder than the classic granite e5/e6 6b slab routes I've onsighted. The gear is good and will keep you off the ground, but the moves are hard and tenuous right to the top (i.e. not 6a) - make sure the top is clean and free of lichen and heather. I wouldn't recommend it as a highball as per Boulder Scotland guide - it feels every inch of 9 metres.
βeta?
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βeta: Stunning climb. Had a little session working this on a grigri to clean the top and try the moves. Given E6 6b in the Gary Latter guide and E5 6b/c in the 2014 SMC guide. I'd give it E6 6c for the onsight attempt - harder than the classic granite e5/e6 6b slab routes I've onsighted. The gear is good and will keep you off the ground, but the moves are hard and tenuous right to the top (i.e. not 6a) - make sure the top is clean and free of lichen and heather. I wouldn't recommend it as a highball as per Boulder Scotland guide - it feels every inch of 9 metres.

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Route of Interest
Tigger

Grade: E6 6b ***
(Uig Sea Cliffs Central - Mhangarstaidh)

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