400m, 12 pitches.

Rockfax Description
1) 5+, 2) 5, 3) 5+, 4) 6a, 5) 5+, 6) 5+, 7) 6a, 8) 6a, 9) 5,
10) 5+, 11) 6a, 12) 5+. A fine direct line of great rock. A slabby start leads to steeper climbing above. © Rockfax

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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
Paul Sagar 7 May, 2017 AltLd A full-blown adventure. Thought I'd leave some more detail notes for those who want more info than is in the Rockfax guidebook. Most of this will apply to the other routes on this face. Firstly, don't underestimate this - each pitch (except 9) is at least 35 meters. And although many are graded at 5, it's better to go in treating everything as 6a. Take a lot of food and water and remember your ascent route to make the rappelles a little less time consuming. The approach is more like 50-60 minutes, and is fairly steep. Word to the wise: best not to climb this area for *at least* two days after rain. The seepage is serious, and the bottom pitches get terrifyingly soaked through. Pitch 4 in particular is almost unclimable when wet, requiring you to pull on clumps of grass and aid through on the draws. Scary when wet, but would probably be superb if dry. The bolting is friendly up to the end of pitch 6, then things start to get run out, and often the placement of the bolts is quite mean - far away from the main line and making it hard to routefind. 7 and 9 had some needless bolting to this effect. We rapped off at the top of pitch 9; moving in a group of 3 was just too slow. If you want to make it all the way to the top you need to leave early and be proficient at the grade to climb fast. The setting is epic, however, and it's totally worth making the effort. Just take it seriously.
A full-blown adventure. Thought I'd leave some more detail notes for those who want more info than is in the Rockfax guidebook. Most of this will apply to the other routes on this face. Firstly, don't underestimate this - each pitch (except 9) is at least 35 meters. And although many are graded at 5, it's better to go in treating everything as 6a. Take a lot of food and water and remember your ascent route to make the rappelles a little less time consuming. The approach is more like 50-60 minutes, and is fairly steep. Word to the wise: best not to climb this area for *at least* two days after rain. The seepage is serious, and the bottom pitches get terrifyingly soaked through. Pitch 4 in particular is almost unclimable when wet, requiring you to pull on clumps of grass and aid through on the draws. Scary when wet, but would probably be superb if dry. The bolting is friendly up to the end of pitch 6, then things start to get run out, and often the placement of the bolts is quite mean - far away from the main line and making it hard to routefind. 7 and 9 had some needless bolting to this effect. We rapped off at the top of pitch 9; moving in a group of 3 was just too slow. If you want to make it all the way to the top you need to leave early and be proficient at the grade to climb fast. The setting is epic, however, and it's totally worth making the effort. Just take it seriously.
Hidden 10 Oct, 2015 AltLd
Hidden 10 Oct, 2015 AltLd
mimi22 27 Sep, 2012 AltLd
Hidden 22 Oct, 2011 AltLd O/S
Hidden 20 Jul, 2009 AltLd dog
LeeWood 20 Jul, 2009 AltLd O/S Very consistent climbing in a sea of granite
Very consistent climbing in a sea of granite
adrianj 21 Sep, 2007 AltLd
with TimmyG
with TimmyG
Hidden 21 Sep, 2007 AltLd O/S
cem ?Jun, 2006 AltLd O/S Think it was this one. Bailed out after about 5 or 6 pitches because it started to rain
with Ian Frith
Think it was this one. Bailed out after about 5 or 6 pitches because it started to rain
with Ian Frith
2 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 5
Votes cast 5
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Onsighted
Dogged
Not Set