400m, 12 pitches.

Rockfax Description
1) 5+, 2) 5, 3) 5+, 4) 6a, 5) 5+, 6) 5+, 7) 6a, 8) 6a, 9) 5,
10) 5+, 11) 6a, 12) 5+. A fine direct line of great rock. A slabby start leads to steeper climbing above. © Rockfax


ClimberDateStyle
LuapRagas 07/May AltLd

A full-blown adventure. Thought I'd leave some more detail notes for those who want more info than is in the Rockfax guidebook. Most of this will apply to the other routes on this face. Firstly, don't underestimate this - each pitch (except 9) is at least 35 meters. And although many are graded at 5, it's better to go in treating everything as 6a. Take a lot of food and water and remember your ascent route to make the rappelles a little less time consuming. The approach is more like 50-60 minutes, and is fairly steep. Word to the wise: best not to climb this area for *at least* two days after rain. The seepage is serious, and the bottom pitches get terrifyingly soaked through. Pitch 4 in particular is almost unclimable when wet, requiring you to pull on clumps of grass and aid through on the draws. Scary when wet, but would probably be superb if dry. The bolting is friendly up to the end of pitch 6, then things start to get run out, and often the placement of the bolts is quite mean - far away from the main line and making it hard to routefind. 7 and 9 had some needless bolting to this effect. We rapped off at the top of pitch 9; moving in a group of 3 was just too slow. If you want to make it all the way to the top you need to leave early and be proficient at the grade to climb fast. The setting is epic, however, and it's totally worth making the effort. Just take it seriously.

Fiona Reid 10/Oct/15 AltLd

Led even pitches. Overall a 2 star route in a 3 star setting. Pitch 4 was scarily wet and appeared to involve holding onto clumps of grass to progress which was worrying. Pitches 7 & 8 and 10 and 11 are pretty damn good though. 5 hours climbing, 2 hours abseiling.

with Mike
Mike-W-99 10/Oct/15 AltLd

A bit scrappy/wet in places. Improves higher up with pitches 11 & 12 the best. Led odd pitches. Paying attention on the way up can save time when abbing off.

with Fiona
mimi22 27/Sep/12 AltLd
Hidden 22/Oct/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 20/Jul/09 AltLd dog
LeeWood 20/Jul/09 AltLd O/S

Very consistent climbing in a sea of granite

adrianj 21/Sep/07 AltLd
Hidden 21/Sep/07 AltLd O/S
cem ?/Jun/06 AltLd O/S

Think it was this one. Bailed out after about 5 or 6 pitches because it started to rain

with Ian Frith
Voting
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 5
Votes cast 5
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Onsighted
Dogged
Not Set