UKC

Access Banned

As described in the 2010 CC guide, climbing at Symonds Yat is only permitted on the north-west facing cliffs - from The Introductory Rocks to the Final Zone inclusive.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Peregrine falcons have established a nest since 2019 on Strathdon, in the White Wall.  Climbers should therefore avoid all routes from Motorway Madness to Night Nurse, inclusive, during the restricted period. 

 

A good, possibly better, variation on Red Shift, avoiding the mossy corner by taking the final wall of Dennis the Menace. Climb, as for Rhubarb, to the ledge, and continue into the cave above. Move up steeply on big holds, place gear as high as possible (large hex and small thread a little higher) then step right into the centre of the wall. Move up to clip the peg then make good technical moves to pass it and reach the saplings. Move back left and finish up the final part of Rhubarb.

Ticklists

CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, blue list (VS and HVS)

Feedback

User Date Notes
SGD 6 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Found this quite hard and it does feel a little contrived/escapable as the hs is so close on the left.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Found this quite hard and it does feel a little contrived/escapable as the hs is so close on the left.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Symonds Yat

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 6
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 6
Votes cast 5
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Organ Grinder

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Shorn Cliff)

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