Rockfax Description
II, 200m, 4 - 5 hours. The Belvédère makes for a worthwhile day on its own but is best combined with the Crochues Traverse.
Approach - From Lac Blanc, follow the path northwest towards the Col des Dards. 200m from the Col, traverse rightwards across scree and snow to reach the ridge. If coming from the Crochues Traverse, either descend that route as described and then traverse to the Belvédère, or (much more enjoyable) continue along the rocky ridge from the Crochues North Summit across the Col des Dards and on towards the Belvédère. Where the ridge steepens significantly and the rock becomes red, traverse for 10m on the Lac Blanc side to reach a 25m abseil from a block. Abseil off in-situ slings and walk 100m northwards to reach the route described here.
1) The ridge can be joined just about anywhere in its lower section. The rock gets increasingly solid as you get higher and it also steepens, bringing you naturally onto the crest.
2) Eventually you come to a slab on the Lac Blanc side - traverse this easily and arrive at the notch, with a steep tower and distinctive tooth above you.
3) 3a. Climb a 12m chimney just to the left of the crest which is steep but furnished with excellent, positive holds (3a).
4) Continue along the crest of the ridge, across a 30m flat section. Then onto the Lac Blanc side until just before the final summit tower.
5) Scramble up and left, onto the west side of the ridge. Follow a vague gully system on chossy black rock to reach the summit.
Descent - Reverse the route. The 12m chimney is abseiled (fixed slings) but otherwise the route can be downclimbed. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The highest summit in the Aiguilles Rouge at 2965m. The route is in the "Sommets du Mont Blanc" book by Laroche and Lelong. Essentially a scramble with one 10m chimney pitch that is given 3b in the book. Start from the top of the Index chairlift and walk to Lac Blanc, then up the rocky path and snowslope to gain the arête just right of the Col des Dards. There are short cuts that don't involve going to Lac Blanc. Descend to the Flégère téléphérique via Lac Blanc. An excellent day.

Feedback

UserDateNotes
Webster 30 Jul Show βeta
βeta: crux chimney is less than 12m and easier than 3a (in ascent). you will find harder ungraded scrambles on the cuillin ridge traverse (all be it on better rock)
βeta?
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βeta: crux chimney is less than 12m and easier than 3a (in ascent). you will find harder ungraded scrambles on the cuillin ridge traverse (all be it on better rock)
maxsmith 22 Aug, 2017 Show βeta
βeta: Mega walk in even after taking the cable car and Index chair lift, but great exposed ridge scrambling and the only 'pitch' of the route probably rates around Mod. Rockfax description of the summit tower is poor - the route as described is very chossy and dangerous. I would advise following the traverse path on the lac blanc side and then reaching the top via the NNE ridge. Followed by the obligatory swim in lac blanc .
 
Show beta
βeta: Mega walk in even after taking the cable car and Index chair lift, but great exposed ridge scrambling and the only 'pitch' of the route probably rates around Mod. Rockfax description of the summit tower is poor - the route as described is very chossy and dangerous. I would advise following the traverse path on the lac blanc side and then reaching the top via the NNE ridge. Followed by the obligatory swim in lac blanc .
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hidden 9 Aug Lead O/S
ned_85 8 Aug Solo
ned_85 6 Aug Solo
Webster 30 Jul Solo top 10m or so is very chossy shale which unconfomably overlies the crystaline basement rocks and is doing its best to no longer be there!
top 10m or so is very chossy shale which unconfomably overlies the crystaline basement rocks and is doing its best to no longer be there!
Wildabeast 3 Sep, 2018 - Lower climbing is a bit chossy, then it gets better at the chimney pitch which is easy and protected. Bit exposed afterwards but nothing difficult. The top section is a walk on loose stuff, not that nice. We did an alternative climbing route to the summit which resulted in pizza box size chunks coming of in your hands. They say the route is 4-5 hours. Even if you pitch every single bit of this including the walk at the top and have a cup of tea on each "belay" it will take you max 3 hours to the summit. We did walk in from Lac Blanc to summit back to Lac Blanc in three hours and we mess about a lot on the way.
Lower climbing is a bit chossy, then it gets better at the chimney pitch which is easy and protected. Bit exposed afterwards but nothing difficult. The top section is a walk on loose stuff, not that nice. We did an alternative climbing route to the summit which resulted in pizza box size chunks coming of in your hands. They say the route is 4-5 hours. Even if you pitch every single bit of this including the walk at the top and have a cup of tea on each "belay" it will take you max 3 hours to the summit. We did walk in from Lac Blanc to summit back to Lac Blanc in three hours and we mess about a lot on the way.
Kristian1805 1 Sep, 2018 -
jafferton91 27 Aug, 2018 - Climbed with a guy called Steve whom I met at the start of the route. There are some really chossy parts which take a bit of care particularly towards the summit.
Climbed with a guy called Steve whom I met at the start of the route. There are some really chossy parts which take a bit of care particularly towards the summit.
SteveD 27 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S
craigholloway 21 Aug, 2018 Solo O/S Fantastic and no one there
with Cath Holloway
Fantastic and no one there
with Cath Holloway
Dougbart 1 Aug, 2018 Solo
swindley 21 Jul, 2018 -
How easy 27 Jun, 2018 Lead Headed left at the top into the choss fest. Wish we'd tried following the path round to the right as suggested by a previous climber.
Headed left at the top into the choss fest. Wish we'd tried following the path round to the right as suggested by a previous climber.
marjan schoeke 7 Sep, 2017 - long approach from the lift, almost missed it on the way back. good route with cloud inversion, some 3a climbing. good to have rope on us.
long approach from the lift, almost missed it on the way back. good route with cloud inversion, some 3a climbing. good to have rope on us.
CameronH 29 Aug, 2017 Solo
maxsmith 22 Aug, 2017 Lead Mega walk in even after taking the cable car and Index chair lift, but great exposed ridge scrambling and the only 'pitch' of the route probably rates around Mod. Rockfax description of the summit tower is poor - the route as described is very chossy and dangerous. I would advise following the traverse path on the lac blanc side and then reaching the top via the NNE ridge. Followed by the obligatory swim in lac blanc .
Mega walk in even after taking the cable car and Index chair lift, but great exposed ridge scrambling and the only 'pitch' of the route probably rates around Mod. Rockfax description of the summit tower is poor - the route as described is very chossy and dangerous. I would advise following the traverse path on the lac blanc side and then reaching the top via the NNE ridge. Followed by the obligatory swim in lac blanc .
Hidden 17 Aug, 2017 Lead dnf
Lugonn 8 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S Easily soloable chimney. Longggggg descent.
with Jo
Easily soloable chimney. Longggggg descent.
with Jo
El_Dave_H 26 Jun, 2016 AltLd dnf Climbing partners hungover, ended up on bus to Flegere with a bloke I bumped into in Snell Sports. Settled on the Belvedere, slogged though loads of snow on approach, took ages to get to the ridge, realised we were too late starting and wouldn't make the summit in time for the lift back down. Sat in the snow and ate some sandwiches. QMD.
Climbing partners hungover, ended up on bus to Flegere with a bloke I bumped into in Snell Sports. Settled on the Belvedere, slogged though loads of snow on approach, took ages to get to the ridge, realised we were too late starting and wouldn't make the summit in time for the lift back down. Sat in the snow and ate some sandwiches. QMD.
Mike Roger ??, 2016 -
Hidden 25 Aug, 2015 Solo
Hidden 25 Aug, 2015 Solo
simonvm 15 Jul, 2015 -
Maarten2 ?Jul, 2015 AltLd Great day, blue sky. Good practice in short-roping on the ridge; pitched the chimney. Running back to catch the last phrique...
with Sander, Kitti
Great day, blue sky. Good practice in short-roping on the ridge; pitched the chimney. Running back to catch the last phrique...
with Sander, Kitti
robthered 30 Aug, 2014 - Unroped up and down, after Crochues
Unroped up and down, after Crochues
Roberttaylor 14 Aug, 2014 Solo O/S Very snowy
Very snowy
jcw ??, 2014 -
Pete Houghton 23 Sep, 2013 Solo http://altitudinalnoodles.wordpress.com/2013/10/18/midnight-assault-on-the-aiguille-du-belvedere/
http://altitudinalnoodles.wordpress.com/2013/10/18/midnight-assault-on-the-aiguille-du-belvedere/
Hidden 10 Jul, 2013 Lead
masmith 18 Jun, 2013 AltLd
jack.williams1 18 Jun, 2013 -
Hidden 8 Feb, 2013 -
Hidden 9 Aug, 2012 Solo O/S
d80f0u 26 Jul, 2012 Solo
Teappleby ?Aug, 2011 Lead
with mum, Sarah, dad
with mum, Sarah, dad
Hidden 18 Jul, 2011 AltLd dnf
bms 16 Jul, 2011 Solo
Hidden 28 Jul, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 16 Jul, 2010 Solo
Hidden ??, 2010 Lead
Hidden ??, 2010 -
EddieA 13 Aug, 2009 Solo O/S Really satisfying route. Lots of Ibex around
Really satisfying route. Lots of Ibex around
roryifinlay 11 Aug, 2009 Solo Roped up for going up the chimney pitch, and abseiled down it on descent.
Roped up for going up the chimney pitch, and abseiled down it on descent.
mills85 26 Aug, 2008 -
with ben_250
with ben_250
Hidden 16 Jul, 2008 -
Hidden 16 Jul, 2008 AltLd O/S
KeithW 7 Sep, 2007 - Moved together on final section. One abseil along the way. Windy & sunny.
with Nick Ferguson
Moved together on final section. One abseil along the way. Windy & sunny.
with Nick Ferguson
LiLaMont 30 Jul, 2007 2nd β
tobydunford 30 Jul, 2007 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2005 -
auld al ?Jul, 1998 Solo O/S
francois ??, 1995 - Done at some point in the 90's
Done at some point in the 90's
steviewindsurf ?Jul, 1985 2nd O/S
with Mel Turnbull
with Mel Turnbull
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