Rockfax Description
II, 200m, 4 - 5 hours. The Belvédère makes for a worthwhile day on its own but is best combined with the Crochues Traverse.
Approach - From Lac Blanc, follow the path northwest towards the Col des Dards. 200m from the Col, traverse rightwards across scree and snow to reach the ridge. If coming from the Crochues Traverse, either descend that route as described and then traverse to the Belvédère, or (much more enjoyable) continue along the rocky ridge from the Crochues North Summit across the Col des Dards and on towards the Belvédère. Where the ridge steepens significantly and the rock becomes red, traverse for 10m on the Lac Blanc side to reach a 25m abseil from a block. Abseil off in-situ slings and walk 100m northwards to reach the route described here.
1) The ridge can be joined just about anywhere in its lower section. The rock gets increasingly solid as you get higher and it also steepens, bringing you naturally onto the crest.
2) Eventually you come to a slab on the Lac Blanc side - traverse this easily and arrive at the notch, with a steep tower and distinctive tooth above you.
3) 3a. Climb a 12m chimney just to the left of the crest which is steep but furnished with excellent, positive holds (3a).
4) Continue along the crest of the ridge, across a 30m flat section. Then onto the Lac Blanc side until just before the final summit tower.
5) Scramble up and left, onto the west side of the ridge. Follow a vague gully system on chossy black rock to reach the summit.
Descent - Reverse the route. The 12m chimney is abseiled (fixed slings) but otherwise the route can be downclimbed. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The highest summit in the Aiguilles Rouge at 2965m. The route is in the "Sommets du Mont Blanc" book by Laroche and Lelong. Essentially a scramble with one 10m chimney pitch that is given 3b in the book. Start from the top of the Index chairlift and walk to Lac Blanc, then up the rocky path and snowslope to gain the arête just right of the Col des Dards. There are short cuts that don't involve going to Lac Blanc. Descend to the Flégère téléphérique via Lac Blanc. An excellent day.

CameronH 29/Aug Solo
maxsmith 22/Aug Lead

Mega walk in even after taking the cable car and Index chair lift, but great exposed ridge scrambling and the only 'pitch' of the route probably rates around Mod. Rockfax description of the summit tower is poor - the route as described is very chossy and dangerous. I would advise following the traverse path on the lac blanc side and then reaching the top via the NNE ridge. Followed by the obligatory swim in lac blanc .

Hidden 17/Aug Lead
El_Dave_H 26/Jun/16 AltLd dnf

Climbing partners hungover, ended up on bus to Flegere with a bloke I bumped into in Snell Sports. Settled on the Belvedere, slogged though loads of snow on approach, took ages to get to the ridge, realised we were too late starting and wouldn't make the summit in time for the lift back down. Sat in the snow and ate some sandwiches. QMD.

Mike Roger ??/2016 -
Hidden 25/Aug/15 Solo
Hidden 25/Aug/15 Solo
simonvm 15/Jul/15 -
Maarten2 ?/Jul/15 AltLd

Great day, blue sky. Good practice in short-roping on the ridge; pitched the chimney. Running back to catch the last phrique...

with Sander, Kitti
robthered 30/Aug/14 -

Unroped up and down, after Crochues

Roberttaylor 14/Aug/14 Solo O/S

Very snowy

jcw ??/2014 -
Pete Houghton 23/Sep/13 Solo

Hidden 10/Jul/13 Lead
masmith 18/Jun/13 AltLd
jack.williams1 18/Jun/13 -
Hidden 08/Feb/13 -
Hidden 09/Aug/12 Solo O/S
d80f0u 26/Jul/12 Solo
Teappleby ?/Aug/11 Lead
with mum, Sarah, dad
Hidden 18/Jul/11 AltLd dnf
bms 16/Jul/11 Solo
Hidden 28/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2010 Lead
Hidden ??/2010 -
EddieA 13/Aug/09 Solo O/S

Really satisfying route. Lots of Ibex around

roryifinlay 11/Aug/09 Solo

Roped up for going up the chimney pitch, and abseiled down it on descent.

mills85 26/Aug/08 -
Hidden 16/Jul/08 -
Hidden 16/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
KeithW 07/Sep/07 -

Moved together on final section. One abseil along the way. Windy & sunny.

with Nick Ferguson
LiLaMont 30/Jul/07 2nd β
tobydunford 30/Jul/07 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2005 -
auld al ?/Jul/98 Solo O/S
francois ??/1995 -

Done at some point in the 90's

steviewindsurf ?/Jul/85 2nd O/S
with Mel Turnbull
16 users have this on their wishlist
High PD+
Mid PD+
Low PD+
High PD
Mid PD
Low PD
High PD-
Mid PD-
Low PD-
High F+
Mid F+
Low F+
High F
Mid F
Low F
Votes cast 2
High 3
Mid 3
Low 3
High 2+
Mid 2+
Low 2+
High 2
Mid 2
Low 2
Votes cast 2
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set