UKC Logbook - 'M. Speciale'

250m, 10 pitches.

Rockfax Description
One of the best and most popular routes on this face. The route follows two successive black streaks. The harder upper pitches can be avoided by exiting right after pitch 5 to join the normal descent from the face.
Start near the rightmost point of the lowest horizontal break, just right of a cave a few metres higher up the face.
1) IV+, 50m. Climb a shallow crack to reach the break in the face. Climb right then back left to a good belay in a small hollow.
2) V+, 50m. Climb left to reach a small corner. Follow this then the successive corner to reach a small ledge. Move right then climb direct.
3) III+, 40m. Follow the black streak to belay before a large loose scree ledge.
4) III, 45m. Ascend the ledge aiming for the base of another black streak on the wall above. Belay just left of the streak.
5) IV, 50m. Climb a small corner on the left side of the black streak. Either avoid an overhang on the right climbing a short steep corner then continue direct, or move 5m left to follow a crack before moving diagonally right to reach the second ledge. Possible escape right here.
6) III, 35m. Climb easier ground to the left.
7) III, 35m. Continue in the same line to a belay below a steep black wall to the right of an arete.
8) V+, 50m Continue left to a black ledge by the arete, then move diagonally right up an inclined ramp to reach a steep face. Step up and climb a black bulge, then move left to reach a ledge. Follow this 10m left to belay below an overhanging crack.
9) V+, 45m. Climb the overhanging crack then continue vertically following a corner to reach a ledge.
10) II, 30m. Do not climb the crack above but instead move right and continue on easy ground to a large scree-strewn amphitheatre. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Big black water streak, protectable by countless thread runners.

Ticklists

Classic Dolomite Climbs - Kohler/Memmel , Dolomites Trip

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User	Date		Notes
John Cuthbert	5 Aug, 2021	Show βeta βeta: Super good day route which ought to be in the modern idiom, but isn't. A very short walk and the high quality means it gets pretty busy. Pretty high quality until the guidebook description becomes impossibly oblique. Other comments here about route-finding are spot on. The remarks on choss piles on the upper terraces are also well worth noting. Probably easy to get lost traversing off too. Usual tricky, loose descent path once you find it. Stunning location.
Show beta βeta: Super good day route which ought to be in the modern idiom, but isn't. A very short walk and the high quality means it gets pretty busy. Pretty high quality until the guidebook description becomes impossibly oblique. Other comments here about route-finding are spot on. The remarks on choss piles on the upper terraces are also well worth noting. Probably easy to get lost traversing off too. Usual tricky, loose descent path once you find it. Stunning location.
dinodinosaur	13 Jul, 2020	Show βeta βeta: P2 talks about two short corners, it should read, "climb the ramp on the left to a short corner move slightly up this till it's possible to traverse right and clip the massive obvious threads. Pull upwards past these to follow threads to a thread belay below the black streak. P6 could also be improved "climb a crack up and to the left the belay to a terrace, move up and rightwards towards a pinnacle shaped Boulder with an hourglass thread belay on the wall behind" . Following this p7 should read "climb up and rightwards then trend back left and up for 20m or so to a thread belay below a steep black wall." the descent isn't obvious and anyone wary of downclimbing the gulley can keep traversing across the crag following the path (exposed) to eventually reach the top of the lagazuoi south face routes and follow that descent.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: P2 talks about two short corners, it should read, "climb the ramp on the left to a short corner move slightly up this till it's possible to traverse right and clip the massive obvious threads. Pull upwards past these to follow threads to a thread belay below the black streak. P6 could also be improved "climb a crack up and to the left the belay to a terrace, move up and rightwards towards a pinnacle shaped Boulder with an hourglass thread belay on the wall behind" . Following this p7 should read "climb up and rightwards then trend back left and up for 20m or so to a thread belay below a steep black wall." the descent isn't obvious and anyone wary of downclimbing the gulley can keep traversing across the crag following the path (exposed) to eventually reach the top of the lagazuoi south face routes and follow that descent.
Oscar Popels	22 Sep, 2019	Show βeta βeta: Rockfax Topo line is at least 50m out	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Rockfax Topo line is at least 50m out
badgerjockey	15 Sep, 2019	Show βeta βeta: The topo line in the 2014 Rockfax is a mess from p5 onwards and is at least 50m too far right looking in, making it appear straight when it definitely isn’t. P5 is more like 60m. The descriptions for p6,7,8&9 need attention. The descent info is also poor, tempting you to cut down a horrible choss nightmare gully too early. I think p6&7 are basically choss walks at no more than II.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: The topo line in the 2014 Rockfax is a mess from p5 onwards and is at least 50m too far right looking in, making it appear straight when it definitely isn’t. P5 is more like 60m. The descriptions for p6,7,8&9 need attention. The descent info is also poor, tempting you to cut down a horrible choss nightmare gully too early. I think p6&7 are basically choss walks at no more than II.