355m, 12 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A classic route which takes a logical line up predominantly excellent rock. The long traverse feels bold but is well protected (and also avoidable) and the upper pitches provide enjoyable and technical corner climbing. Recommended, even if the perhaps excessive pegging on some pitches detracts somewhat from the route's original 'dragon-like' daring.
Start in the centre of the face on black rock, ascend rightwards up a small ledge to reach a small corner.
1) IV+, 30m. Climb the corner, exit and move right for 3 metres then climb a second corner to exit right to a good belay on a small platform.
2) IV+, 30m. Ignore the yellow corner above and step left, then enter a chimney. Climb the chimney passing a chockstone near the top to move right onto a ledge. Belay below a crack.
3) III, 20m. Follow a large flake right over easy ground then move up and left to a thread belay.
4) V+, 30m. Climb the slab above, moving left then back right level with a ledge on the left. Climb direct for a few metres then ascend diagonally left. Continue left past a flake to a good belay.
5) V+, 25m. Move left then climb a yellow crack direct before an exposed and rather loose traverse left leads to a belay on a ledge.
6) V, 35m. Continue in the same line, making an initially delicate traverse following a horizontal yellow crack (exposed but well protected) to then ascend to the base of a pillar.
6a) II, 35m. For an easier variant, ascend a small corner above the belay to reach a large ledge and follow this easily left (II) on looose ground to rejoin the first variant.
7) IV+, 40m. Climb a black crack to the right of the pillar leftwards, then from the top of the pillar continue in the same line following a flake to a belay below a crack.
8) IV, 30m. Climb the crack above then exit left, pass the base of a small corner and climb a second crack to a belay on the left, just left of the small black roof that caps the corner.
9) V+, 25m. Climb the large black corner above, pulling through an overhang near to top to reach a belay on a ledge.
10) V, 30m. Follow the continuation corner above for 30m, keeping mainly on the right wall then exit right onto a ledge below inclined rock.
11) IV-, 45m. Climb the slab above from left to right then enter a chimney. Follow this to a thread belay to the right of the prominent yellow roofs.
12) IV-, 20m. Follow a crack direct or slightly left to exit onto a large ledge just right of a yellow tower. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Classic Dolomite Climbs - Kohler/Memmel, Big Routes, Dolomites Trip

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
kingjam 9 Jul AltLd dnf Got off route after trying to avoid the choss fest some 5 pitches up. Rock fax description pretty rubbish really
with Matt Naylor
Got off route after trying to avoid the choss fest some 5 pitches up. Rock fax description pretty rubbish really
with Matt Naylor
Chris Manasseh 5 Sep, 2018 AltLd Led 1, 3, 5, 7, 9, 10, 12. (John backed off pitch 10). Absolutely magnificent route. The crux pitches are some of the most exciting and exposed climbing I've ever done. Definitely full-on HVS. Some loose stuff but it doesn't detract if you're careful. Maybe even adds to the adventure! (NB: the route is 355m in total. The 300m/9 pitches given at the top here is wrong)
with John Armstrong
Led 1, 3, 5, 7, 9, 10, 12. (John backed off pitch 10). Absolutely magnificent route. The crux pitches are some of the most exciting and exposed climbing I've ever done. Definitely full-on HVS. Some loose stuff but it doesn't detract if you're careful. Maybe even adds to the adventure! (NB: the route is 355m in total. The 300m/9 pitches given at the top here is wrong)
with John Armstrong
teodude 28 Jul, 2018 -
with Miki fox, Marcello cosentino, Franz sorci
with Miki fox, Marcello cosentino, Franz sorci
Hidden 24 Jun, 2018 AltLd
Batt 3 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S The 100 Dolly climbs gives this VI- and I think that's a better grade. Alt lead until about pitch 8 where my feet turned into swollen sausages in the heat and it hurt t do anything. Done with John I and Cath E. Rock fax description pretty crap. Pitches are actually very good except first chimney and the long traverse which is dodgy whether you take the very loose, mud grade II or the poorly protected grade 5. It's not delicate, it's just bold! The line shown in the other book which seems to mix the 5 then the 2 lines is better and what I ended up doing once john confirmed the start of the 2 was a crumbling pile of rubbish. There is an awful lot of loose rock the higher you get. Descent is awful, basically follow the old war remains down the choss-fest!
with Hoyes
The 100 Dolly climbs gives this VI- and I think that's a better grade. Alt lead until about pitch 8 where my feet turned into swollen sausages in the heat and it hurt t do anything. Done with John I and Cath E. Rock fax description pretty crap. Pitches are actually very good except first chimney and the long traverse which is dodgy whether you take the very loose, mud grade II or the poorly protected grade 5. It's not delicate, it's just bold! The line shown in the other book which seems to mix the 5 then the 2 lines is better and what I ended up doing once john confirmed the start of the 2 was a crumbling pile of rubbish. There is an awful lot of loose rock the higher you get. Descent is awful, basically follow the old war remains down the choss-fest!
with Hoyes
Hoyes 3 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S
with Batt
with Batt
Fran Sgr 7 Sep, 2013 AltLd dnf
with Jay C
with Jay C
Jay C 7 Sep, 2013 AltLd
Paul ablitt 2 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S plus 1 on guide book time 7hrs
with Rushy
plus 1 on guide book time 7hrs
with Rushy
Lenny ?Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
with Phil .N
with Phil .N
RocKalina ?Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S lead first pitch
with MM
lead first pitch
with MM
Hidden ??, 2012 AltLd O/S
Ed Babs 20 Aug, 2009 AltLd O/S avoided a very loose looking pitch 7 on the RHS of the corner
with Harry
avoided a very loose looking pitch 7 on the RHS of the corner
with Harry
Hidden 23 Jul, 2004 AltLd O/S
Martin Bennett 30 Jul, 2002 -
with MT
with MT
NickJH ?Aug, 2000 AltLd dnf
with JThomas
with JThomas
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Voting
High VI-
Mid VI-
Low VI-
High V+
Mid V+
Low V+
High V
Mid V
Low V
Votes cast 3
Votes cast 3
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Not Set