250m, 11 pitches.

Rockfax Description
An excellent climb with solid rock and varied climbing. The chimney sections are particularly memorable and not only for their lack of gear! A very worthwhile excursion, with a straightforward descent to end the day with.
Start directly under the main arete just right of a clump of bushes some 30m up the face.
1) IV, 40m. Climb the grassy left-trending crack/ramp on good holds. Continue over a small chossy ledge, then climb onto a grassy ledge, continue direct, don't go too far left, then climb direct towards the bushes above. Belay on a pine tree in the bushes on the left.
2) V, 40m. Climb the slab above heading for a dead tree. Belay just behind and to the left of the dead tree.
3) IV, 40m. Traverse the grassy ledge leftwards to below a short corner topped by an overhang. Climb the wall just right of the chimney traversing right under the roof. Belay just above this on a small ledge with cement ring.
4) IV+ 30m. Climb direct, keeping about 7m from the big yellow wall on the left, on good rock over easy ground, past a cement ring. Then start trending leftwards over black rock to get established in the main corner proper. Cramped climbing on good holds leads to a stance in a niche underneath an overhanging corner.
5) V+, 40m. Leave the belay with an awkward move to get established, then continue up the corner. Where the corner splits into two cracks, the right is the easier of the two (V), the left provides a harder variant (VI-) with excellent climbing. Belay on a cemented ring as you top out of the corner past a tree on a large ledge.
6) III, 40m. Continue up the ledge to take a right-trending ramp, leading into a right-trending shallow chimney to a rocky knob, ignoring the large chimney on the left.
7) IV-, 50m. Climb direct over grey slabs on really good holds. Trend slightly rightwards to reach a good ledge just left of the arete with another cemented ring belay.
8) III+, 50m. Head slightly leftwards over more grey slabs and then to a large ledge with another cemented ring.
9) I, 20m. Traverse left for 15m, past a large chimney on the right, to a cemented ring.
10) V+ 15m. Climb direct then diagonally rightwards over black-streaked rock to reach a niche with a summit book.
11) V+, 10m. From the niche, step left to climb an orange wall with jugs and a layback crimp. Then traverse right passing above the niche to reach a cemented ring.
12) IV, 30m. Climb the loose chimney-gully with an awkward move at three-quarters height to exit onto the grassy top. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Classic Dolomite Climbs - Kohler/Memmel.

gateaublaster 16/Aug/16 Lead dog

Had to take my rucksack off and haul it up the upper chimney.. Summit book was unfortunately a soggy pile of paper

FelixPeterken 12/Aug/16 AltLd

The chimney is awkward, but gets harder higher up (although that might have been because my hands were going numb). Pegs in the hard places, but hard to follow on the more scrambly sections

with AndrewP
AndrewP 12/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Good route with generally OK route-finding - our only issue was on P8 which has an intermediate belay not mentioned in Rockfax. P5 and P11 were the cruxes and both felt like HVS.

Mike W ?/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Mike Hood 10/Oct/14 AltLd
with Alex
Alex Munnery ?/Oct/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22/Sep/13 AltLd
climberuk 22/Sep/13 AltLd
with Niall
niallk 22/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

Absolutely cracking route which we'd failed on a couple of days earlier (too late and too slow). Led p1-4 (1-3 in guide)and the chimney exit pitch which induced much thrutching, swearing and necessitated bag hauling - great fun! Are additional pitches/ belay stations not marked in the Classic Climbs guide. Also traversed left near the top earlier than that guide suggests, from a obvious belay ring. The next pitch was bolted so presumably some sort of alternative finish. 14 pitches in total.

with Steven Harris, Pam
Hidden 18/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 11/Aug/13 2nd O/S
brianrunner 06/Aug/13 AltLd

good route with easy climbing up to mvs then 2 harder cruxes at hvs. fine views and an easy walking approach and descent.

with steve wells, martina
Hidden ?/Aug/13 Lead
Paula Ryan ?/Aug/13 AltLd
with Robin Brooke
Luis SD 21/Jul/13 2nd
Chris Sansum 16/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
with Richard Lade
Hidden ?/Jul/13 AltLd
Hidden ??/2013 AltLd
Hidden 19/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 19/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
williamsd79 01/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
centurion05 ?/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
with dyl
Elsier 22/Jul/12 AltLd dnf

Hailstormed off after 4 pitches, shame as the crux 5th pitch looks fantastic, but we will return.

with Koon
Koon 22/Jul/12 AltLd dnf

Hailstorm after 4th pitch and had to ab off along with 9 Italians! Was gutted we couldn't complete the route as I was really enjoying it.

with Elsie
RocKalina ?/Jul/12 AltLd stuck in chimney...otherwise great climb

with MM
ripper ?/Jun/12 AltLd

A cracking day out. dropped my belay plate from the top of the second pitch - could have abbed off and re-started but we were already a bit late so pressed on and completed the route with an improvised krab brake, which worked fine. Led the crux corner pitch on one in-situ peg and had some uncertainty about the route of the penultimate pitch to/past the cave - proved to be quite a sting in the tail... with Chris Lyness and Pierce Ferris, who also swung leads.

with Matt Chap
hlegge ?/May/12 AltLd O/S

First multipitch in Dolomites. First route with Jack. I lead the two chimney pitches and got slightly stuck in both to Jack's great amusement (filmed). Lovely route and the first step on the road to the ultimate aim... (slightly tricky route finding over easier grade III ground just over half way up)

with Jack Hodgson
Hidden 30/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 21/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
danimal88 07/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

though there was a great chimney

with piotr
whistler 07/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Followed a line of new bolts to the left of the real start for the first few pitches (6b ish climbing in places). As a result we ended missing the grand diedre pitch which is a shame as it looked good from the bottom. Good route for a short day and great views of the mighty Tofana

Em66 ?/Jun/11 AltLd
with Mat
Em66 ?/Jun/11 AltLd
with Mat
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ?/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Jul/10 AltLd
Hidden 02/Jul/10 2nd
Tarquin 26/Jun/10 2nd
EmileCilliers 25/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
dominic lee 04/Sep/09 Lead

caught out by storm half way.

nathanlee ?/Sep/09 2nd β
martinazando 31/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
al99 31/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
Ed Babs 17/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
with Harry
Hidden 01/Aug/09 AltLd
Hidden ??/2008 AltLd
uphillnow 13/Sep/07 AltLd

Several parties on route, some waiting. three and a half hours

with Maggie Bass
Hidden ?/Aug/06 AltLd
Martin Bennett 18/Jul/06 -
with John Stockton
Hidden 23/Aug/03 AltLd O/S
Hidden 02/Aug/02 AltLd O/S
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High VI-
Mid VI-
Low VI-
High V+
Mid V+
Low V+
High V
Mid V
Low V
Votes cast 8
Votes cast 10
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set