250m, 11 pitches.

Rockfax Description
An excellent climb with solid rock and varied climbing. The chimney sections are particularly memorable and not only for their lack of gear! A very worthwhile excursion, with a straightforward descent to end the day with.
Start directly under the main arete just right of a clump of bushes some 30m up the face.
1) IV, 40m. Climb the grassy left-trending crack/ramp on good holds. Continue over a small chossy ledge, then climb onto a grassy ledge, continue direct, don't go too far left, then climb direct towards the bushes above. Belay on a pine tree in the bushes on the left.
2) V, 40m. Climb the slab above heading for a dead tree. Belay just behind and to the left of the dead tree.
3) IV, 40m. Traverse the grassy ledge leftwards to below a short corner topped by an overhang. Climb the wall just right of the chimney traversing right under the roof. Belay just above this on a small ledge with cement ring.
4) IV+ 30m. Climb direct, keeping about 7m from the big yellow wall on the left, on good rock over easy ground, past a cement ring. Then start trending leftwards over black rock to get established in the main corner proper. Cramped climbing on good holds leads to a stance in a niche underneath an overhanging corner.
5) V+, 40m. Leave the belay with an awkward move to get established, then continue up the corner. Where the corner splits into two cracks, the right is the easier of the two (V), the left provides a harder variant (VI-) with excellent climbing. Belay on a cemented ring as you top out of the corner past a tree on a large ledge.
6) III, 40m. Continue up the ledge to take a right-trending ramp, leading into a right-trending shallow chimney to a rocky knob, ignoring the large chimney on the left.
7) IV-, 50m. Climb direct over grey slabs on really good holds. Trend slightly rightwards to reach a good ledge just left of the arete with another cemented ring belay.
8) III+, 50m. Head slightly leftwards over more grey slabs and then to a large ledge with another cemented ring.
9) I, 20m. Traverse left for 15m, past a large chimney on the right, to a cemented ring.
10) V+ 15m. Climb direct then diagonally rightwards over black-streaked rock to reach a niche with a summit book.
11) V+, 10m. From the niche, step left to climb an orange wall with jugs and a layback crimp. Then traverse right passing above the niche to reach a cemented ring.
12) IV, 30m. Climb the loose chimney-gully with an awkward move at three-quarters height to exit onto the grassy top. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Classic Dolomite Climbs - Kohler/Memmel

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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
kingjam 6 Jul AltLd Nice route, top 2 pitches pretty spooky
with Matt Naylor
Nice route, top 2 pitches pretty spooky
with Matt Naylor
Louvet 20 Sep, 2018 2nd With Guacomole!
With Guacomole!
Hidden 28 Aug, 2018 2nd O/S
Hidden 28 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S
David Horwood 9 Jul, 2018 -
Rich Cross - Alpine Guides ?Jul, 2018 Lead rockfax suggests move left to bypass the final cave/squeeze chimney - quite in yr face this way but good holds appear
with David Horwood
rockfax suggests move left to bypass the final cave/squeeze chimney - quite in yr face this way but good holds appear
with David Horwood
Hidden ?Jul, 2018 -
NickJH ??, 2018 -
Paperclip ?Aug, 2017 -
with Myrte
with Myrte
gateaublaster 16 Aug, 2016 Lead dog Had to take my rucksack off and haul it up the upper chimney.. Summit book was unfortunately a soggy pile of paper
Had to take my rucksack off and haul it up the upper chimney.. Summit book was unfortunately a soggy pile of paper
FelixPeterken 12 Aug, 2016 AltLd The chimney is awkward, but gets harder higher up (although that might have been because my hands were going numb). Pegs in the hard places, but hard to follow on the more scrambly sections
with AndrewP
The chimney is awkward, but gets harder higher up (although that might have been because my hands were going numb). Pegs in the hard places, but hard to follow on the more scrambly sections
with AndrewP
AndrewP 12 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S Good route with generally OK route-finding - our only issue was on P8 which has an intermediate belay not mentioned in Rockfax. P5 and P11 were the cruxes and both felt like HVS.
Good route with generally OK route-finding - our only issue was on P8 which has an intermediate belay not mentioned in Rockfax. P5 and P11 were the cruxes and both felt like HVS.
Mike W ?Aug, 2015 Lead O/S
Mike Hood 10 Oct, 2014 AltLd
Alex Munnery ?Oct, 2014 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22 Sep, 2013 AltLd
climberuk 22 Sep, 2013 AltLd
with niallk
with niallk
niallk 22 Sep, 2013 AltLd O/S Absolutely cracking route which we'd failed on a couple of days earlier (too late and too slow). Led p1-4 (1-3 in guide)and the chimney exit pitch which induced much thrutching, swearing and necessitated bag hauling - great fun! Are additional pitches/ belay stations not marked in the Classic Climbs guide. Also traversed left near the top earlier than that guide suggests, from a obvious belay ring. The next pitch was bolted so presumably some sort of alternative finish. 14 pitches in total.
with climberuk, Pam
Absolutely cracking route which we'd failed on a couple of days earlier (too late and too slow). Led p1-4 (1-3 in guide)and the chimney exit pitch which induced much thrutching, swearing and necessitated bag hauling - great fun! Are additional pitches/ belay stations not marked in the Classic Climbs guide. Also traversed left near the top earlier than that guide suggests, from a obvious belay ring. The next pitch was bolted so presumably some sort of alternative finish. 14 pitches in total.
with climberuk, Pam
Hidden 18 Sep, 2013 AltLd O/S
Hidden 11 Aug, 2013 2nd O/S
brianrunner 6 Aug, 2013 AltLd good route with easy climbing up to mvs then 2 harder cruxes at hvs. fine views and an easy walking approach and descent.
with steve wells, martina
good route with easy climbing up to mvs then 2 harder cruxes at hvs. fine views and an easy walking approach and descent.
with steve wells, martina
Hidden ?Aug, 2013 Lead
Paula Ryan ?Aug, 2013 AltLd
with Robin Brooke
with Robin Brooke
Luis SD 21 Jul, 2013 2nd
Chris Sansum 16 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
with Richard Lade
with Richard Lade
Hidden ?Jul, 2013 AltLd
Hidden ??, 2013 AltLd
Hidden 19 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S
williamsd79 1 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S
centurion05 ?Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S
Elsier 22 Jul, 2012 AltLd dnf Hailstormed off after 4 pitches, shame as the crux 5th pitch looks fantastic, but we will return.
with Koon
Hailstormed off after 4 pitches, shame as the crux 5th pitch looks fantastic, but we will return.
with Koon
Koon 22 Jul, 2012 AltLd dnf Hailstorm after 4th pitch and had to ab off along with 9 Italians! Was gutted we couldn't complete the route as I was really enjoying it.
with Elsier
Hailstorm after 4th pitch and had to ab off along with 9 Italians! Was gutted we couldn't complete the route as I was really enjoying it.
with Elsier
RocKalina ?Jul, 2012 AltLd ...got stuck in chimney...otherwise great climb
with MM
...got stuck in chimney...otherwise great climb
with MM
ripper ?Jun, 2012 AltLd A cracking day out. dropped my belay plate from the top of the second pitch - could have abbed off and re-started but we were already a bit late so pressed on and completed the route with an improvised krab brake, which worked fine. Led the crux corner pitch on one in-situ peg and had some uncertainty about the route of the penultimate pitch to/past the cave - proved to be quite a sting in the tail... with Chris Lyness and Pierce Ferris, who also swung leads.
with Matt Chap
A cracking day out. dropped my belay plate from the top of the second pitch - could have abbed off and re-started but we were already a bit late so pressed on and completed the route with an improvised krab brake, which worked fine. Led the crux corner pitch on one in-situ peg and had some uncertainty about the route of the penultimate pitch to/past the cave - proved to be quite a sting in the tail... with Chris Lyness and Pierce Ferris, who also swung leads.
with Matt Chap
hlegge ?May, 2012 AltLd O/S First multipitch in Dolomites. First route with Jack. I lead the two chimney pitches and got slightly stuck in both to Jack's great amusement (filmed). Lovely route and the first step on the road to the ultimate aim... (slightly tricky route finding over easier grade III ground just over half way up)
with Jack Hodgson
First multipitch in Dolomites. First route with Jack. I lead the two chimney pitches and got slightly stuck in both to Jack's great amusement (filmed). Lovely route and the first step on the road to the ultimate aim... (slightly tricky route finding over easier grade III ground just over half way up)
with Jack Hodgson
Hidden 30 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S
Hidden 21 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S
danimal88 7 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S though there was a great chimney
though there was a great chimney
whistler 7 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S Followed a line of new bolts to the left of the real start for the first few pitches (6b ish climbing in places). As a result we ended missing the grand diedre pitch which is a shame as it looked good from the bottom. Good route for a short day and great views of the mighty Tofana
Followed a line of new bolts to the left of the real start for the first few pitches (6b ish climbing in places). As a result we ended missing the grand diedre pitch which is a shame as it looked good from the bottom. Good route for a short day and great views of the mighty Tofana
Em66 ?Jun, 2011 AltLd
with Freg1
with Freg1
Em66 ?Jun, 2011 AltLd
with Freg1
with Freg1
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Hidden ?Aug, 2010 Lead O/S
dancurrie 9 Jul, 2010 AltLd
with Marcus Horgan, Tom Wallbank
with Marcus Horgan, Tom Wallbank
Hidden 2 Jul, 2010 2nd
Tarquin 26 Jun, 2010 2nd
EmileCilliers 25 Jun, 2010 AltLd O/S
dominic lee 4 Sep, 2009 Lead caught out by storm half way.
caught out by storm half way.
nathanlee ?Sep, 2009 2nd β
martinazando 31 Aug, 2009 AltLd O/S
with al99
with al99
al99 31 Aug, 2009 AltLd O/S
Ed Babs 17 Aug, 2009 AltLd O/S
with Harry
with Harry
Hidden 1 Aug, 2009 AltLd
Hidden ??, 2008 AltLd
uphillnow 13 Sep, 2007 AltLd Several parties on route, some waiting. three and a half hours
with Maggie Bass
Several parties on route, some waiting. three and a half hours
with Maggie Bass
Hidden ?Aug, 2006 AltLd
Martin Bennett 18 Jul, 2006 -
with John Stockton
with John Stockton
Hidden 23 Aug, 2003 AltLd O/S
Hidden 2 Aug, 2002 AltLd O/S
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Voting
High VI-
Mid VI-
Low VI-
High V+
Mid V+
Low V+
High V
Mid V
Low V
Votes cast 8
Votes cast 10
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Followed
Lead
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Not Set