87m, 5 pitches. Start to the right of a boundary wall and below a small slab 4m right of a hanging holly tree.

1. 12m 3C
Climb diagonally left across easy slabs and scoops to the bottom of a wide chimney on right. Climb this and Belay above.

2. 18m 3C
Traverse around a corner on the left and then climb the wide crack on the left up to a holly tree.

3. 9m 3C
Ignore the continuation of the ledge you are on and instead make an awkward step right and up a hanging wall and over a small holly tree to gain the crest of the buttress.

4. 35m 4A
Climb at first on exposed left edge of the buttress and then move to centre with plentiful protection. Final 10m is a scramble over a wide vegetated ledge to find a belay in a recess.

5. 13m 4A
From the recess climb up diagonally left past a large flake and up past an overlap using a crack on the right side and exit onto terrace about 10m below and to the left of the large pine tree.

Grade is probably more like HS 3C,4A,4A,4B,4A
Often combined with Clingon or other routes on Main face

Joss Lynam, P Crean Mar/1949

Ticklists: Ireland 3 Star D-HS.

Piglet69 06/May/17 2nd
niallsash 06/May/17 Lead
LouMullen ?/Oct/15 AltLd β
with Mark
Adamcsyou 25/Jul/15 Lead

Direct start, Al led the last pitch

Paul Collins ?/Nov/14 -

Very wet, cold day, not much gear at all, mad run-outs on wet slabs, all in all a good wintery adventure!

with Neil Byrne
Rhys Macallister ?/Sep/14 AltLd
with andy thompson
davkeo 09/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 19/Jun/14 Lead
bearclimbing 03/Sep/13 Lead dog
barophobe 24/Aug/13 AltLd
Hidden 17/May/10 AltLd
wheelo 22/Apr/10 AltLd
with herbert
Hidden 11/Apr/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 10/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Sep/09 Lead O/S
idmadden ?/Sep/09 AltLd β

Great climb, definately HS. Rope drag an issue if you run the first two pitches together (like I did !)

cearbhalld 29/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

Awkward Route Finding on Pitch-5

auld al ?/Apr/04 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/1991 Lead O/S
kennylind ??/1983 AltLd O/S

Climbed in a heatwave.We both felt unwell after,and had to throw ourselves into the lake to revive!

with Peter McCall
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High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Votes cast 4
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 3
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set