87m, 5 pitches. Start to the right of a boundary wall and below a small slab 4m right of a hanging holly tree.

1. 12m 3C
Climb diagonally left across easy slabs and scoops to the bottom of a wide chimney on right. Climb this and Belay above.

2. 18m 3C
Traverse around a corner on the left and then climb the wide crack on the left up to a holly tree.

3. 9m 3C
Ignore the continuation of the ledge you are on and instead make an awkward step right and up a hanging wall and over a small holly tree to gain the crest of the buttress.

4. 35m 4A
Climb at first on exposed left edge of the buttress and then move to centre with plentiful protection. Final 10m is a scramble over a wide vegetated ledge to find a belay in a recess.

5. 13m 4A
From the recess climb up diagonally left past a large flake and up past an overlap using a crack on the right side and exit onto terrace about 10m below and to the left of the large pine tree.

Grade is probably more like HS 3C,4A,4A,4B,4A
Often combined with Clingon or other routes on Main face

Joss Lynam, P Crean Mar/1949

Ticklists

Ireland 3 Star D-HS, Ireland 3 Star Multipitches

Feedback

UserDateNotes
Duffyrm 25 May Show βeta
βeta: Finally climbed it on my third try. Be careful of the top jamming coming round the corner to the v scoop on the second pitch. The third pitch is very physical and if you get off course on the final two pitches there is a real lack of protection. Great adventure and the walk off isn’t easy either.
 
Show beta
βeta: Finally climbed it on my third try. Be careful of the top jamming coming round the corner to the v scoop on the second pitch. The third pitch is very physical and if you get off course on the final two pitches there is a real lack of protection. Great adventure and the walk off isn’t easy either.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Duffyrm 25 May Lead
with Rodrigo
with Rodrigo
Duffyrm 24 Jun, 2018 Lead dnf Did the first two pitches and abbed off. Tough enough and backed out while I could. I'll return
with Isidro, Niamh
Did the first two pitches and abbed off. Tough enough and backed out while I could. I'll return
with Isidro, Niamh
Piglet69 6 May, 2017 2nd
niallsash 6 May, 2017 Lead
LouMullen ?Oct, 2015 AltLd β
with Mark
with Mark
Adamcsyou 25 Jul, 2015 Lead Direct start, Al led the last pitch
Direct start, Al led the last pitch
Paul Collins ?Nov, 2014 - Very wet, cold day, not much gear at all, mad run-outs on wet slabs, all in all a good wintery adventure!
with Neil Byrne
Very wet, cold day, not much gear at all, mad run-outs on wet slabs, all in all a good wintery adventure!
with Neil Byrne
Hidden ?Sep, 2014 AltLd
davkeo 9 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S
Hidden 19 Jun, 2014 Lead
bearclimbing 3 Sep, 2013 Lead dog
barophobe 24 Aug, 2013 AltLd
Hidden 17 May, 2010 AltLd
wheelo 22 Apr, 2010 AltLd
with herbert
with herbert
Hidden 11 Apr, 2010 2nd O/S
Hidden 10 Apr, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 13 Sep, 2009 Lead O/S
idmadden ?Sep, 2009 AltLd β Great climb, definately HS. Rope drag an issue if you run the first two pitches together (like I did !)
Great climb, definately HS. Rope drag an issue if you run the first two pitches together (like I did !)
Hidden 29 Aug, 2009 AltLd O/S
auld al ?Apr, 2004 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??, 1991 Lead O/S
Ken lindsay ??, 1983 AltLd O/S
with Peter McCall
with Peter McCall
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