Rockfax Description
This is an excellent route just right of the right-hand streak on the face.
Start as for the Messner.
1) I, 60m. Climb the corner for 20m before branching off right. Climb diagonally on easy ground to reach a piton belay below a crack.
2) II, 30m. Follow a crack and line of weakness up rightwards to reach a stance protected by fixed pitons.
3) III, 30m. Continue rightwards aiming for a small overlap on the right of the face. Join the Diagonal Route in the main crack and belay in line with the right-hand black streak above.
4) III, 20m. Climb direct staying just right of the black stripe to belay in the second diagonal crack that splits the face.
5) IV, 30m. Climb direct just right of the black streak.
6) IV+, 50m. Continue just right of the black streak.
7) IV, 50m. Keep going just right of the black streak, before stepping right to turn the overlap. Belay on a ledge on the right.
8) III, 30m. Make a rising leftwards traverse following the best rock (a number of possible lines).
9) III, 30m. Continue direct to the summit slopes. © Rockfax

Messner, Messner, Hahn 1968.

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