400m, 14 pitches. This is the prominent tower at the south-eastern end of castle mountain. There are variations to the route, consisting of approximately 14 pitches of up to 30m in length. Abseiling can be done with a single rope mainly on bolt anchors, though in a couple of places the anchors are tape/slings. The route holds a lot of loose rock so care needs to be taken when abseiling.

The climbing proper starts with 2-3 pitches to get up on to the dragon's back (the flat-topped rib at the southern foot of the tower). A chimney just round to the left side of the end of the rib allows relatively easy access. A small notch along the dragon's back is crossed with a scramble down and a short (5-6m) 5.7 pitch on good rock to get out and access the main tower. 2-3 pitches lead up to the prominent amphitheatre mid-way up the wall, which can be reached by various lines. A suggestion would be to take a line just to the left of the lowest point of the amphitheatre, moving more central for the final pitch into the amphitheatre to follow a corner that leads straight up into it.
The variant routes then split, leading up the left edge?, right edge and up through the middle of the amphitheatre. Beyond the amphitheatre, several more pitches lead to the top, with the last pitch being steepest but on large holds.

Abseil should be possible by following the same line down as far as the dragon's back and then by a series of 3 bolt anchors starting at the notch on the dragon's back, abseiling down the east side (opposite side to the highway). Avoid getting down into the chimney/gully while abseiling.

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Flynn_Simpson 11 Jun 2nd dnf
Evieosborn ?Jun AltLd Did not finish, abed off a couple of pitches from the top
Did not finish, abed off a couple of pitches from the top
Hidden 6 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
Edale 3 Jul, 2017 AltLd
with notgnarly, Yvonne
with notgnarly, Yvonne
Hidden 3 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S
jenslater ?Jun, 2015 -
Richard Goodey ??, 2015 -
Hidden 15 Jun, 2012 2nd O/S
maria85 ?Jul, 2011 Lead O/S Took lefthand option after snowpatch as weather was coming in so wanted to stay on the descent option! Led majority of pitches.
with Trent
Took lefthand option after snowpatch as weather was coming in so wanted to stay on the descent option! Led majority of pitches.
with Trent
Hidden 10 Jun, 2009 AltLd O/S
tlmarjot ?Jun, 2009 AltLd O/S
danie ?Nov, 2008 2nd O/S
with brian wong
with brian wong
Jonny M ?Sep, 2008 Lead O/S
John Andrew Simpson ??, 1995 AltLd dnf Climb 4 pitches, until route was covered in snow, abbed off
with Tim Harnett
Climb 4 pitches, until route was covered in snow, abbed off
with Tim Harnett
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