250m, 11 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A classic chimney climb, which has suffered from its popularity adding polish to the otherwise good holds. Nevertheless the route provides elegant yet traditional climbing and is a must for chimney enthusiasts.
Start on the northeast side of the tower, next to the base of the gendarme - the little tower to the left of Cima Piccolissima. A short scree gully leads to a ledge. Follow this right to the base of the route below prominent black flakes.
1) IV, 30m. Climb direct to the flakes and follow these right to a detached spur. Traverse a ledge left here to reach a peg belay below a vertical crack.
2) V, 20m. Climb the crack direct on increasingly compact rock, then trend right to reach a wide ledge.
3) V, 30m. Trend right and climb a flake until moves left lead to another flaked crack. Follow the line of this direct then continue up a ramp of easy rock to a good stance.
4) V-, 35m. Move up to the narrow yellow chimney above - this is often climbed facing out - until a narrow section. Move onto the right wall (facing out) then re-enter the chimney to reach a stance where it widens.
5) IV+, 35m. Continue in the same line, overcoming two chockstones, to a belay deep in the chimney.
6) V-, 40m. Move onto the left wall (facing in) then re-enter the chimney. Climb polished rock, with superb bridging positions, to reach another chockstone. Belay just above this.
7) IV+, 50m. Continue in the wider and more featured chimney as it trends right to exit below the summit. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A classic climb with a polished Crux

Ticklists: Classic Dolomite Climbs - Kohler/Memmel.

afterthesend 04/Sep/17 AltLd O/S

Did the route in good time but had set off late. Descent in the dark took longer than the climb due to bad descent finding. Minor epic

dan gibson 02/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
with Katerina petkova
katy_abra 02/Aug/16 AltLd
DigitalSteak 10/Aug/15 AltLd dnf

Bailed after 3 pitches as raining rock fall from party above and too dangerous.. Great, clean rock on first few pitches though

Hidden 16/Jun/12 AltLd
Hidden 16/Jun/12 AltLd dnf
GraMc 23/Jun/10 Lead O/S

great route, i got stuck in the chimney tho!!! too many pies i think. abseil decent was a bit spicy

with kat torr, jonnie williams
jonnie3430 23/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
with Graham, El Toro
tommytuffa 03/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
with Felix
felixthelion 03/Jul/09 AltLd O/S

Fun chimney, good warm up route

Protheroe 16/Aug/07 -
with Dave Radley
Bristoldave ??/2007 Lead
with Protheroe
laurent ?/Jul/06 AltLd O/S

beautifull and exposed. Loose rock.

andyinglis ?/Jun/04 2nd

Dodgy guts.... exposure wasnt helping!

with neil adams
Neil Adams ??/2004 Lead O/S
IanGilbertJones ?/Aug/97 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/97 AltLd
IanD353 ?/Jul/89 AltLd
Hidden 01/Sep/79 AltLd
Steve Woollard ?/Jul/74 AltLd
with Doug Adams
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