390m, 11 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Situated in the middle of the exposed south face, this is a nice alternative to the often-crowded Spigolo Giallo. The route can feel intimidating with some amazing exposure. The rock was initially quite loose but it has cleaned nicely over the years, but care must still be taken particularly along the prominent yellow flake, which is still loose in places. Be especially aware when there are parties above.
Start 20m before the top of the scree fan to the left of Spigolo Giallo, below a left-trending chimney.
1) IV, 45m. Climb the chimney to reach a two-bolt belay.
2) VI+, 30m. Ascend a further 4m in the chimney then move right to a yellow flake. Climb the flake's well-pegged crack then move 7m right. Climb a grey overhang direct to reach a stance on the left.
3) IV+, 40m. Climb a grey ramp diagonally right, move right out of the ramp to climb a short corner then exit right to easier ground.
4) III, 20m. Follow a crack diagonally right to a comfortable stance below roofs.
5) V+, 25m. Step right then climb a wet chimney crack direct to the roofs. Climb through the roofs on their right to belay below a left-trending crack.
6) VI, 35m. Climb the crack, move right and continue in the crack, taking care on the loose flake to its left. Belay by a detached flake.
7) V, 30m. Continue following the line of the crack, by the prominent yellow flake, to a belay below a small roof.
8) V, 25m. Continue in the crack, moving behind the flake, and exit left by a large chockstone onto the ledge.
9) V, 25m. Move left of the chockstone and climb the right-hand of two parallel cracks. Move right then back left with easy scrambling.
10) V, 25m. Move right and climb a corner left, then continue with enjoyable crack climbing to a good terrace.
11) IV+, 40m. Climb direct to enter the final gully (exiting left leads to the descent route). Continue direct to reach the subsidiary summit. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Sustained, bold and intimidating.

farmus21 16/Jul/16 AltLd dnf


with samrad
samrad 16/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

It was too cold to attempt any of the routes on the north faces as it was -1 without windchill so we decided to get on this as its in the sun. This however is one of the shittest routes I have ever attempted to climb. HOW this gets 2* in the rock fax guide is totally beyond me, it shouldn't even be included in the guide! Really don't bother getting on it. We climbed the first 5 pitches and then decided that it was so shit we were rapping off (doesn't happen very often)!!! the 2nd pitch was really loose and not enjoyable to climb. pitches 3&4 were just boring chossy traverses. Pitch 5 was totally crap, being wet and loose. we had had enough so rapped down to try a better route. The description of where the route started was also incorrect in the rock fax guidebook. start at the top of the scree fan at a left trending chimney not 20m down from the top of the scree fan. the description for a number of the pitches was off as well. pretty bad guide book.

with james G
Hidden ?/Jul/15 AltLd
bede.west ?/Aug/14 AltLd

not impressed

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