Rockfax Description
This via ferrata was equipped in 2009 and is one of the hardest in the area, being of comparable difficulty to Cesare Piazetta and Magnifici Quattro. The climbing is steep and sustained requiring good fitness. Being such a new via ferrata there are still sections that need cleaning, but the flip side of this is a wonderful lack of polish. With the aid of the Faloria cable car the approach is relatively short and the descent non-existent making it an ideal half a day out from Cortina. Traditionalists be warned - whilst this route offers a good physical challenge it lacks a few of the elements of the 'older' via ferratas. There are no war ruins, it doesn't have that same Alpine feel and the 'summit' is a busy plateau from which a number of winter ski lifts run.
Approach - Park at the Faloria lift station car park in the centre of Cortina (well signed). Take the cable car to the mid station at Mandres. From Mandres, follow path 206 to the east. After 10 minutes the path forks; take the right fork following signs for the via ferrata. The path was quite small but is now becoming more obvious and is marked with cairns and red paint. A steep but brief walk up the hillside brings you to a plaque and the start of the route.
Alternatively it is possible to walk from the lift station to Mandres following path 220. The path can be quite difficult to follow because it has been diverted several times as new construction work takes place.
VF - The route starts steeply up a vague arete giving you an © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The "Sci Club 18" is a demanding new via ferrata which winds its way up the Crepe di Faloria face, immediately beneath the cable car which leads up to the top of Monte Faloria above Cortina. This difficult and exposed ferrata offers spectacular views over the entire Ampezzo basin and was created by the Cortina Mountain Guides and the Faloria company with 700m of steel cables and more than 300 pins.

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hidden 25 Sep, 2019 -
Hidden 25 Sep, 2019 -
dwl285 1 Sep, 2019 -
netboy 28 Aug, 2019 Lead
Hamish_Kup 26 Aug, 2019 Lead Very muscular with lots of pulling with little rest. Wouldn’t suggest it in the wet
Very muscular with lots of pulling with little rest. Wouldn’t suggest it in the wet
Hidden 11 Aug, 2019 Solo
Hidden 7 Aug, 2019 Lead dnf
farmus21 5 Aug, 2019 - Sustained interest but not strenuous. Dodged a storm.
with Kathy
Sustained interest but not strenuous. Dodged a storm.
with Kathy
mmmhumous 12 Jul, 2019 - Amazing route!!! With wire hauling, it feels like top roping a Severe 4c, with 2 or 3 5a moves thrown in towards the top. Far less choss than I was expecting based on previous comments. Traffic is obviously cleaning the route up.
Amazing route!!! With wire hauling, it feels like top roping a Severe 4c, with 2 or 3 5a moves thrown in towards the top. Far less choss than I was expecting based on previous comments. Traffic is obviously cleaning the route up.
Akinori 12 Jul, 2019 Solo
Robin Clothier ??, 2019 -
maybe_si 18 Sep, 2018 Solo O/S
Chris Manasseh 12 Sep, 2018 - All free (in rock shoes and with my Skylotec Rider) except the ladder and one use of a rung for feet. Some superb steep technical climbing, maybe up to 6a+ in a couple of places. Chossy in parts but generally an excellent route to finish off the holiday. Astounding backdrop throughout!
All free (in rock shoes and with my Skylotec Rider) except the ladder and one use of a rung for feet. Some superb steep technical climbing, maybe up to 6a+ in a couple of places. Chossy in parts but generally an excellent route to finish off the holiday. Astounding backdrop throughout!
sallygal29 11 Sep, 2018 -
beds74 5 Sep, 2018 Lead Great! Steep strenuous all the way. Quite tired dare I say by end...end on summit for great views, and Stallones memrobilia from bad cliffhanger...
Great! Steep strenuous all the way. Quite tired dare I say by end...end on summit for great views, and Stallones memrobilia from bad cliffhanger...
Hidden 3 Sep, 2018 Solo O/S
theclarkes 3 Sep, 2018 - Last ferrata of our holiday. Great climb - No shame in using the cable!
Last ferrata of our holiday. Great climb - No shame in using the cable!
michaelped 3 Sep, 2018 -
with devo
with devo
loungerr 13 Aug, 2018 - Awesome exposed ferrata. Felt quite difficult and I could not climb some of the places without using the cable.
Awesome exposed ferrata. Felt quite difficult and I could not climb some of the places without using the cable.
emma1987 5 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S Didn’t use any wires - climbed the rock instead
Didn’t use any wires - climbed the rock instead
MikeDavey ?Aug, 2018 -
tsl42 30 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S Hauled on cable on occasion.
with Dammage
Hauled on cable on occasion.
with Dammage
alaster tonge 12 Jul, 2018 -
Hidden 5 Jul, 2018 Solo
Joecartmell 3 Jul, 2018 -
JemG ?Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
with Joe Cartmell, Elliot Fairhurst
with Joe Cartmell, Elliot Fairhurst
Lady Vee 27 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S Nice route. Took about 90mins. No hard sections but lots of good steep climbing and lovely views over Cortina. Very well protected so the volume of clipping can get slightly tiring.
Nice route. Took about 90mins. No hard sections but lots of good steep climbing and lovely views over Cortina. Very well protected so the volume of clipping can get slightly tiring.
Niall13 5 Jun, 2018 Lead rpt It was so good decided to do it again!
It was so good decided to do it again!
Daniela Balslev 5 Jun, 2018 Solo O/S awesome!
awesome!
Niall13 1 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S Walking in from the town centre makes this a more worth while day.
Walking in from the town centre makes this a more worth while day.
Pete_Stewart 30 May, 2018 -
Patrick Milne 30 May, 2018 -
funkyvin1 18 Sep, 2017 Lead O/S Really enjoyed this route. Steep in a few sections and some cracking exposure.... And you can get a beer in the cable car station 200yds from the top of the route! Win win all round.
Really enjoyed this route. Steep in a few sections and some cracking exposure.... And you can get a beer in the cable car station 200yds from the top of the route! Win win all round.
gsavell 31 Aug, 2017 -
gav 26 Jul, 2017 - Climbed a lot on the rock, but used the cables and staples without hesitation also, particularly as it's still a bit loose in places. A few stiff pulls, hardest maybe the start, but never super-sustained. Great views, good line and well cabled. Walked in 30 minutes from mid station, but tbh the gondola seems a waste of a few quid to save 1km and a couple of hundred metres up. €14 for a VF ticket up to mid and down from top.
Climbed a lot on the rock, but used the cables and staples without hesitation also, particularly as it's still a bit loose in places. A few stiff pulls, hardest maybe the start, but never super-sustained. Great views, good line and well cabled. Walked in 30 minutes from mid station, but tbh the gondola seems a waste of a few quid to save 1km and a couple of hundred metres up. €14 for a VF ticket up to mid and down from top.
robertcollier 22 Jul, 2017 Solo O/S Awesome. Sweaty hard work, beer never tasted so good!
with Emily Collier
Awesome. Sweaty hard work, beer never tasted so good!
with Emily Collier
Hidden ?Jul, 2017 -
Hidden ?Jul, 2017 -
Ben Harper 21 Jun, 2017 -
buffclimbymatthew 20 Jun, 2017 -
marcb 20 Jun, 2017 -
Hidden 20 Jun, 2017 -
Karlos 28 May, 2017 Solo Last bit of the walk in a bit sheep and seemingly never ending. Good route, pretty sustained and long (took us about 90 mins). Didn't find any parts of it too hard - not sure what all of the fuss is about. Tried to free climb it as much as possible, but occasional sections required pulling on the cable. Rock boots would have made things easier and quicker. Path descent via Cliffhanger cabin is steep but quick.
with Adam B, Muffin
Last bit of the walk in a bit sheep and seemingly never ending. Good route, pretty sustained and long (took us about 90 mins). Didn't find any parts of it too hard - not sure what all of the fuss is about. Tried to free climb it as much as possible, but occasional sections required pulling on the cable. Rock boots would have made things easier and quicker. Path descent via Cliffhanger cabin is steep but quick.
with Adam B, Muffin
bummingham 28 May, 2017 Solo O/S Good steep route. Felt a bit contrived, like a French VF. There for the sake of it, not for getting to the top.
with Stewart Moodie, Julie Taylor, Karlos, TomGB
Good steep route. Felt a bit contrived, like a French VF. There for the sake of it, not for getting to the top.
with Stewart Moodie, Julie Taylor, Karlos, TomGB
TomGB 28 May, 2017 Lead O/S Walk in felt hard, although we had just done ettore bovero in the morning as well! Wish I'd had some more dextrous gloves as ended up doing more wire hauling than I'd like given the small holds. Great positions though. The end of the route felt contrived and unnecessarily circuitous with some chossy traverses.
with Julie Taylor, Karlos, Stewart Moody, bummingham
Walk in felt hard, although we had just done ettore bovero in the morning as well! Wish I'd had some more dextrous gloves as ended up doing more wire hauling than I'd like given the small holds. Great positions though. The end of the route felt contrived and unnecessarily circuitous with some chossy traverses.
with Julie Taylor, Karlos, Stewart Moody, bummingham
Tim Harper 17 Sep, 2016 Solo
Hidden 9 Sep, 2016 -
Hidden 6 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S
JonLongshanks ?Sep, 2016 Solo O/S With Paul Thorlby and Rick F
With Paul Thorlby and Rick F
Michael Bonallie 26 Aug, 2016 Lead
with Emma Cooper, Emma Bryning
with Emma Cooper, Emma Bryning
Hidden 14 Aug, 2016 -
edjenkins 14 Aug, 2016 -
Hidden 11 Aug, 2016 -
stevethomas 9 Aug, 2016 Solo
with Heather
with Heather
A Jackson 19 Jul, 2016 -
with Neil Murphy
with Neil Murphy
Connolly8684 ?Jul, 2016 -
with Tom Lynch
with Tom Lynch
Hidden 13 Sep, 2015 -
kenr 9 Sep, 2015 Solo Great route, my second time. Climbed it mostly "free" with hands and feet directly on the rock (clipping the cable only for protection) -- except for about five moves with Aid of cable or rungs (first time it was ten moves Aided). Lots of free moves in the Euro 5a-5c range, a few 6a. I'm guessing perhaps it all (except the ladder) goes free at Euro 6b or 6c. Problem with pushing free-climbing difficulty is what you hit if you fall (e.g. protruding rock horns, or fixed steel hardware). I used a special VF kit (Skylotec Skyrider) that if used correctly prevents any significant fall. Without that I'd grab the cable much more.
Great route, my second time. Climbed it mostly "free" with hands and feet directly on the rock (clipping the cable only for protection) -- except for about five moves with Aid of cable or rungs (first time it was ten moves Aided). Lots of free moves in the Euro 5a-5c range, a few 6a. I'm guessing perhaps it all (except the ladder) goes free at Euro 6b or 6c. Problem with pushing free-climbing difficulty is what you hit if you fall (e.g. protruding rock horns, or fixed steel hardware). I used a special VF kit (Skylotec Skyrider) that if used correctly prevents any significant fall. Without that I'd grab the cable much more.
bclifton 7 Sep, 2015 -
IJHunt 29 Aug, 2015 Solo O/S
with Fiona
with Fiona
Andy Fielding 13 Aug, 2015 Solo
Tim Harper 6 Aug, 2015 Solo O/S Really enjoyable VF! Didn't find it to difficult to say it gets a grade of 5B...
Really enjoyable VF! Didn't find it to difficult to say it gets a grade of 5B...
Jim Malo 18 Jul, 2015 -
with Mark
with Mark
ali macphee 11 Jul, 2015 Solo
with Hilary
with Hilary
embob 21 Jun, 2015 Solo Complete and utter choss pit but strangely enjoyable... Loved the big solid wall towards the end.
with alik b, Pa
Complete and utter choss pit but strangely enjoyable... Loved the big solid wall towards the end.
with alik b, Pa
Hidden 21 Jun, 2015 Solo
Hidden 21 Jun, 2015 Solo
JulianD 12 Sep, 2014 Solo Strenuous but very enjoyable - will wear gloves next time!
with Paul B, David H
Strenuous but very enjoyable - will wear gloves next time!
with Paul B, David H
yelotango 24 Aug, 2014 Solo
hazeysunshine 23 Aug, 2014 - dnf - retreated in the rain
with Sharon, Cristina
dnf - retreated in the rain
with Sharon, Cristina
Hidden 18 Aug, 2014 Solo O/S
John Pickles 18 Aug, 2014 Solo
with 8848
with 8848
kb273 22 Jun, 2014 -
Marq 2 Sep, 2013 Solo O/S
with Paul Lucas, Vicky L, PontiusPirate
with Paul Lucas, Vicky L, PontiusPirate
Hidden 2 Sep, 2013 -
Hidden 1 Sep, 2013 Solo O/S
nblackbeard 21 Aug, 2013 - Our second via ferrata and great fun. Covers some pretty cool ground and you can get the ski lift half way up and all the way down :-).
with gfoster
Our second via ferrata and great fun. Covers some pretty cool ground and you can get the ski lift half way up and all the way down :-).
with gfoster
nblackbeard 21 Aug, 2013 - Our second via ferrata and great fun. Covers some pretty cool ground and you can get the ski lift half way up and all the way down :-).
with gfoster
Our second via ferrata and great fun. Covers some pretty cool ground and you can get the ski lift half way up and all the way down :-).
with gfoster
moviti ?Aug, 2013 - Fun! approach from inter-mid station was 30mins,and Ferrata was about 90mins. In the morning, all section in shade.
with Norico
Fun! approach from inter-mid station was 30mins,and Ferrata was about 90mins. In the morning, all section in shade.
with Norico
Hidden 13 Jul, 2013 -
Fiona Reid 13 Jul, 2013 - Probably more like VF4C than 5C.
Probably more like VF4C than 5C.
jhobbs 5 Jul, 2013 -
with Harvdog
with Harvdog
Harvdog 5 Jul, 2013 -
with jhobbs
with jhobbs
MariaT 8 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S Steep, strenuous and exposed but not particularly technical. Good fun!
Steep, strenuous and exposed but not particularly technical. Good fun!
dpiddock 8 Sep, 2012 Solo O/S
with MariaT
with MariaT
sarahlizzy 12 Aug, 2012 - This VF has a fearsome reputation. After climbing it, my view is that it's not really deserved. Having said that, it is a fantastic via ferrata: steep and sustained climbing, loads of exposure, lots of variety, and it keeps throwing stuff at you. It's also really pretty and a crowd pleaser - listening to people gasp at someone on the ferrata while descending in the cable car is quite a rush! One of my favourite VFs - will do again.
with syv_k
This VF has a fearsome reputation. After climbing it, my view is that it's not really deserved. Having said that, it is a fantastic via ferrata: steep and sustained climbing, loads of exposure, lots of variety, and it keeps throwing stuff at you. It's also really pretty and a crowd pleaser - listening to people gasp at someone on the ferrata while descending in the cable car is quite a rush! One of my favourite VFs - will do again.
with syv_k
Swotson 27 Jul, 2012 Solo O/S Super fun steep and technical via ferrata that seemed to go on and on.
Super fun steep and technical via ferrata that seemed to go on and on.
Hidden 27 May, 2012 -
AndyMcCoy 21 Jul, 2011 -
Griff87 ?Jul, 2011 -
Griff87 ?Jul, 2011 -
jlismore 18 Aug, 2010 Solo
Hidden 19 Sep, 2009 -
Dunx ??, 2009 -
10 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High VF5C
Mid VF5C
Low VF5C
High VF5B
Mid VF5B
Low VF5B
High VF5A
Mid VF5A
Low VF5A
Votes cast 14
Votes cast 15
Style of Ascent
Soloed
Lead
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Not Set