Rockfax Description
This via ferrata was equipped in 2009 and is one of the hardest in the area, being of comparable difficulty to Cesare Piazetta and Magnifici Quattro. The climbing is steep and sustained requiring good fitness. Being such a new via ferrata there are still sections that need cleaning, but the flip side of this is a wonderful lack of polish. With the aid of the Faloria cable car the approach is relatively short and the descent non-existent making it an ideal half a day out from Cortina. Traditionalists be warned - whilst this route offers a good physical challenge it lacks a few of the elements of the 'older' via ferratas. There are no war ruins, it doesn't have that same Alpine feel and the 'summit' is a busy plateau from which a number of winter ski lifts run.
Approach - Park at the Faloria lift station car park in the centre of Cortina (well signed). Take the cable car to the mid station at Mandres. From Mandres, follow path 206 to the east. After 10 minutes the path forks; take the right fork following signs for the via ferrata. The path was quite small but is now becoming more obvious and is marked with cairns and red paint. A steep but brief walk up the hillside brings you to a plaque and the start of the route.
Alternatively it is possible to walk from the lift station to Mandres following path 220. The path can be quite difficult to follow because it has been diverted several times as new construction work takes place.
VF - The route starts steeply up a vague arete giving you an immediate taste of what is to come. The rock here can be a bit greasy, particularly after rainfall, but it gets better the higher you go. Shortly after you reach a ledge which you follow right onto the next face. Climb this, heading vertically with excellent climbing and good exposure, until you reach another ledge. A rising right-trending traverse takes you around an arete that you climb on the right-hand side. Keep a lookout for the Faloria cable car which passes directly overhead. At the top of the arete another small traverse rightwards along a ledge drops you into a notch below a slightly loose looking short chimney. Climb this into a little amphitheatre with a ledge running through it at half height. Follow the ledge around the bowl until the path brings you underneath another steep arete. Climb this with the aid of numerous fixed stemples to the top and another ledge. This is the end of the main difficulties. Continue following the wire on easier ground until you top out at Faloria, just south of the cable car station.
Descent - The usual descent is via the Faloria cable car back down into Cortina.
For those wanting to descend on foot, path 212 to the south is the quickest. The path is steep with a number of switchbacks and brings you directly back down to Mandres at the Faloria cable car mid station. From here you can either take the cable car back down the rest of the way or follow the aforementioned path 220 signed towards Cortina. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The "Sci Club 18" is a demanding new via ferrata which winds its way up the Crepe di Faloria face, immediately beneath the cable car which leads up to the top of Monte Faloria above Cortina. This difficult and exposed ferrata offers spectacular views over the entire Ampezzo basin and was created by the Cortina Mountain Guides and the Faloria company with 700m of steel cables and more than 300 pins.

Ticklists: NTU Climbing - Van Club.

funkyvin1 18/Sep/17 Lead O/S

Really enjoyed this route. Steep in a few sections and some cracking exposure.... And you can get a beer in the cable car station 200yds from the top of the route! Win win all round.

gsavell 31/Aug/17 -
with Sarah Knight
gav 26/Jul/17 -

Climbed a lot on the rock, but used the cables and staples without hesitation also, particularly as it's still a bit loose in places. A few stiff pulls, hardest maybe the start, but never super-sustained. Great views, good line and well cabled. Walked in 30 minutes from mid station, but tbh the gondola seems a waste of a few quid to save 1km and a couple of hundred metres up. €14 for a VF ticket up to mid and down from top.

robertcollier 22/Jul/17 Solo O/S

Awesome. Sweaty hard work, beer never tasted so good!

with Emily Collier
Hidden ?/Jul/17 -
Ben Harper 21/Jun/17 -
marcb 20/Jun/17 -
Hidden 20/Jun/17 -
Karlos 28/May/17 Solo

Last bit of the walk in a bit sheep and seemingly never ending. Good route, pretty sustained and long (took us about 90 mins). Didn't find any parts of it too hard - not sure what all of the fuss is about. Tried to free climb it as much as possible, but occasional sections required pulling on the cable. Rock boots would have made things easier and quicker. Path descent via Cliffhanger cabin is steep but quick.

with Adam B, Muffin
Hidden 28/May/17 Solo O/S
TomGB 28/May/17 Lead O/S

Walk in felt hard, although we had just done ettore bovero in the morning as well! Wish I'd had some more dextrous gloves as ended up doing more wire hauling than I'd like given the small holds. Great positions though. The end of the route felt contrived and unnecessarily circuitous with some chossy traverses.

with Julie Taylor, Karl Stewart, Stewart Moody, Adam Butler
Tim Harper 17/Sep/16 Solo
Hidden 09/Sep/16 -
Hidden 06/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/16 Solo O/S
Michael Bonallie 26/Aug/16 Lead
with Emma Cooper, Emma Bryning
Hidden 14/Aug/16 -
edjenkins 14/Aug/16 -
Hidden 11/Aug/16 -
stevethomas 09/Aug/16 Solo
with Heather
Connolly8684 ?/Jul/16 -
with Tom Lynch
Hidden 13/Sep/15 -
kenr 09/Sep/15 Solo

Great route, my second time. Climbed it mostly "free" with hands and feet directly on the rock (clipping the cable only for protection) -- except for about five moves with Aid of cable or rungs (first time it was ten moves Aided). Lots of free moves in the Euro 5a-5c range, a few 6a. I'm guessing perhaps it all (except the ladder) goes free at Euro 6b or 6c. Problem with pushing free-climbing difficulty is what you hit if you fall (e.g. protruding rock horns, or fixed steel hardware). I used a special VF kit (Skylotec Skyrider) that if used correctly prevents any significant fall. Without that I'd grab the cable much more.

bclifton 07/Sep/15 -
IJHunt 29/Aug/15 Solo O/S
with Fiona
Andy Fielding 13/Aug/15 Solo
Tim Harper 06/Aug/15 Solo O/S

Really enjoyable VF! Didn't find it to difficult to say it gets a grade of 5B...

Jim Malo 18/Jul/15 -
with Mark
ali macphee 11/Jul/15 Solo
with Hilary
embob 21/Jun/15 Solo

Complete and utter choss pit but strangely enjoyable... Loved the big solid wall towards the end.

with Alex, Pa
Hidden 21/Jun/15 Solo
Hidden 21/Jun/15 Solo
JulianD 12/Sep/14 Solo

Strenuous but very enjoyable - will wear gloves next time!

with Paul B, David H
yelotango 24/Aug/14 Solo
hazeysunshine 23/Aug/14 -

dnf - retreated in the rain

with Sharon, Cristina
Hidden 18/Aug/14 Solo O/S
kb273 22/Jun/14 -
Marq 02/Sep/13 Solo O/S
with Paul Lucas, Vicky Lisle, James Rowe
Hidden 02/Sep/13 -
Hidden 01/Sep/13 Solo O/S
nblackbeard 21/Aug/13 -

Our second via ferrata and great fun. Covers some pretty cool ground and you can get the ski lift half way up and all the way down :-).

nblackbeard 21/Aug/13 -

Our second via ferrata and great fun. Covers some pretty cool ground and you can get the ski lift half way up and all the way down :-).

moviti ?/Aug/13 -

Fun! approach from inter-mid station was 30mins,and Ferrata was about 90mins. In the morning, all section in shade.

with Norico
Mike-W-99 13/Jul/13 -

Easily accessible on paths without the cable car. Strenuous but not hard and very well cabled.

with Fiona
Fiona Reid 13/Jul/13 -

Probably more like VF4C than 5C.

with Mike
jhobbs 05/Jul/13 -
Harvdog 05/Jul/13 -
MariaT 08/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Steep, strenuous and exposed but not particularly technical. Good fun!

dpiddock 08/Sep/12 Solo O/S
sarahlizzy 12/Aug/12 -

This VF has a fearsome reputation. After climbing it, my view is that it's not really deserved. Having said that, it is a fantastic via ferrata: steep and sustained climbing, loads of exposure, lots of variety, and it keeps throwing stuff at you. It's also really pretty and a crowd pleaser - listening to people gasp at someone on the ferrata while descending in the cable car is quite a rush! One of my favourite VFs - will do again.

with Syv
Swotson 27/Jul/12 Solo O/S

Super fun steep and technical via ferrata that seemed to go on and on.

Hidden 27/May/12 -
AndyMcCoy 21/Jul/11 -
Griff87 ?/Jul/11 -
Griff87 ?/Jul/11 -
Hidden 18/Aug/10 Solo
Hidden 19/Sep/09 -
Hidden 09/Sep/09 -
Dunx ??/2009 -
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