700m, 25 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Probably the most renowned classic on the whole mountain. With 25 pitches forging a line up the pale slabs that fall direct from the summit to half-height before escaping out to the right to climb steeper rock and eventually the upper section of the East Ridge. There is one aid move and the 6a+ pitch is easily aided too if necessary. Despite being fully bolted, this is not a route to be underestimated, 8 hours of climbing is a decent time for an efficient team to aim for. Bear in mind that the line of the lower part of the route is so clean because all the run-off from the upper face gets funnelled down here - it is no place to be if rain is forecast. Also the route is full in the sun all day so carry sufficient water.
Start on the left side of the pale slabs where the approach path flattens out - name on the rock. The start is shared with another line so be sure to start by trending rightwards.
1) 5+, 2) 5+, 3) 5+, 4) 5, 5) 5, 6) 5+/A0, 7) 5+, 8) 5+, 9) 5,
10) 3+, 11) 5, 12) 5, 13) 5, 14) 5+, 15) 6a+, 16) 5, 17) 5+,
18) 5+, 19) 3+, 20) 5+, 21) 5+, 22) 4+, 23) 5, 24) 3+, 25) 4. 150m of easy, but highly exposed, scrambling lead to the top - hard enough to stay roped up for but maybe moving together. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Climb the slabs above the big gully in the south east face. Mostly pitches of F5 but a crux pitch of 6a+ is required to reach the eastern arete which leads to the summit.

Jean-Denis Achard and Gerard Pouliquen with help from Jean-Paul Faure and Jean-Louis Rocher 1999

Ticklists

Ariege easy multipitch, The Big Easys

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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
Hidden 8 Sep, 2018 AltLd
Hidden 8 Sep, 2018 AltLd
superturbo 29 Oct, 2017 AltLd Scouted out the start the evening before. Slabtastic!
with Tom
Scouted out the start the evening before. Slabtastic!
with Tom
tobydunford 27 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Oli
with Oli
EllieWoods 11 Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S Great day! Left the car 530am, which paid off as we started the route as it got light and had the first few pitches in shade. Moved together over easier ground. Total time to summit around 7 hours. Took a handful of wires and 3 smallish/med cams, which was plenty.
Great day! Left the car 530am, which paid off as we started the route as it got light and had the first few pitches in shade. Moved together over easier ground. Total time to summit around 7 hours. Took a handful of wires and 3 smallish/med cams, which was plenty.
David Coley 11 Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S Ellie's first route of this length; climbed in 6hrs. The route is bolted with rings for easy abseil all the way to the ridge. By pulling on a few bolts this can be done at 5+. The first pitch or two feel a little runout, but after this the bolts are in the right places to protect most of the harder moves. There seems to be some new bolts added to the ridge to protect the easier climbing that lies between the last pitch on the topo and the summit. This might mean that many teams no longer need a small trad rack, however the nervous or exhausted or those that meet a storm might like to still take something like two 120cm slings, 3 cams (grey, purple, green DMM dragons) and size 2,4,6 wires.
Ellie's first route of this length; climbed in 6hrs. The route is bolted with rings for easy abseil all the way to the ridge. By pulling on a few bolts this can be done at 5+. The first pitch or two feel a little runout, but after this the bolts are in the right places to protect most of the harder moves. There seems to be some new bolts added to the ridge to protect the easier climbing that lies between the last pitch on the topo and the summit. This might mean that many teams no longer need a small trad rack, however the nervous or exhausted or those that meet a storm might like to still take something like two 120cm slings, 3 cams (grey, purple, green DMM dragons) and size 2,4,6 wires.
humptydumpty 3 Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S Pulled on the bolt for the 6b move; led the 6a+ pitch; moved together for 3 pitches. 5:57 to top of climbing; another 40 mins before we reached the top, including a long break (20 mins?) Feet in agony, so started the final scramble barefoot before changing into trainers.
Pulled on the bolt for the 6b move; led the 6a+ pitch; moved together for 3 pitches. 5:57 to top of climbing; another 40 mins before we reached the top, including a long break (20 mins?) Feet in agony, so started the final scramble barefoot before changing into trainers.
Dr Toph 28 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S The full story - https://naranjoclimbs.wordpress.com/2016/08/01/my-what-a-big-tooth-you-have/
with EmilyN
The full story - https://naranjoclimbs.wordpress.com/2016/08/01/my-what-a-big-tooth-you-have/
with EmilyN
EmilyN 28 Jul, 2016 2nd O/S beautiful multipitch, awesome climbing, sore feet, awesome views, epic descent ! Climbed clean seconding, climbing together for easier pitches. Longest climb I've done yet.
with Dr Toph
beautiful multipitch, awesome climbing, sore feet, awesome views, epic descent ! Climbed clean seconding, climbing together for easier pitches. Longest climb I've done yet.
with Dr Toph
Hidden ?Aug, 2015 -
Gareth 6 Sep, 2014 AltLd dnf Got to pitch 14, but started too late. Wouldn't have got to the top until 11pm so headed down. Mostly good clean climbing. Great day out
Got to pitch 14, but started too late. Wouldn't have got to the top until 11pm so headed down. Mostly good clean climbing. Great day out
montymoo 6 Sep, 2014 AltLd dnf lead the evens up to pitch 13 but ran out of time !
with Gareth
lead the evens up to pitch 13 but ran out of time !
with Gareth
lewiz 24 Aug, 2014 AltLd dog Led the odd pitches (first & crux). All of my leads clean but slipped off a smear on P2 due to the first three or four pitches streaming with water. Reached the summit in about 11 hours and had an epic getting down. Epic route, glad to have done it after first coming up with the idea three years ago!
with Tom Stone
Led the odd pitches (first & crux). All of my leads clean but slipped off a smear on P2 due to the first three or four pitches streaming with water. Reached the summit in about 11 hours and had an epic getting down. Epic route, glad to have done it after first coming up with the idea three years ago!
with Tom Stone
Tomish 14 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S
with lewiz
with lewiz
riddle 26 Jun, 2013 AltLd O/S 9 hours 40 mins, 14 hours car to car. Aid the 6a pitch
9 hours 40 mins, 14 hours car to car. Aid the 6a pitch
Hidden 20 Sep, 2012 AltLd
paul horabin ??, 2012 AltLd
Andy Nisbet 29 Sep, 2011 AltLd A great day out. The approach was checked by doing Alabets, a 10 pitch and harder 6a+ 2 days before. Took 7hrs to the summit and 2hrs 15mins down - we did find the path! Lots of easier ground but you do need to be quick.
with Jonathan Preston
A great day out. The approach was checked by doing Alabets, a 10 pitch and harder 6a+ 2 days before. Took 7hrs to the summit and 2hrs 15mins down - we did find the path! Lots of easier ground but you do need to be quick.
with Jonathan Preston
blahblahblah 20 Sep, 2011 AltLd O/S planned bivvy at top of 14th pitch - finished the rest of route next day ... brilliant climb although hard with big packs ; )
with Mike McKenna
planned bivvy at top of 14th pitch - finished the rest of route next day ... brilliant climb although hard with big packs ; )
with Mike McKenna
jonny taylor 28 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S A seriously big day out! Quite an adventure. Long slabby pitches low down. Found the crux pitch pretty tough to deal with after covering so much ground already in the hot sun. It was very well protected though. For me the best bit was probably the spectacular exposed rib pitch on the arete as a fitting finale. Aid pitch is a very short bolt-pull across a featureless slab to reach the belay. 8h30 to P25 if I remember rightly. We pitched the rest of the ridge for safety although we had soloed it a few days previously. We were keeping up 20 minute pitches but lost a bit of momentum after the relief of getting through the crux! The descent through the forest was pretty hellish - very steep through undergrowth with no path for the first part, and a constant worry of tumbling over a crag. Definitely worth getting met at the Poele de Frire if you can possibly arrange it.
A seriously big day out! Quite an adventure. Long slabby pitches low down. Found the crux pitch pretty tough to deal with after covering so much ground already in the hot sun. It was very well protected though. For me the best bit was probably the spectacular exposed rib pitch on the arete as a fitting finale. Aid pitch is a very short bolt-pull across a featureless slab to reach the belay. 8h30 to P25 if I remember rightly. We pitched the rest of the ridge for safety although we had soloed it a few days previously. We were keeping up 20 minute pitches but lost a bit of momentum after the relief of getting through the crux! The descent through the forest was pretty hellish - very steep through undergrowth with no path for the first part, and a constant worry of tumbling over a crag. Definitely worth getting met at the Poele de Frire if you can possibly arrange it.
bigbobbyking 8 Sep, 2009 AltLd O/S Awesome route - by far the longest I've ever done. Made it to the top in just over 8.5 hrs. Found the route well bolted throughout except for the final easy section to the top. The descent was a bit annoying, only just finding the path in the woods as it got dark.
with Aeron Buchanan
Awesome route - by far the longest I've ever done. Made it to the top in just over 8.5 hrs. Found the route well bolted throughout except for the final easy section to the top. The descent was a bit annoying, only just finding the path in the woods as it got dark.
with Aeron Buchanan
Hidden ??, 2005 Lead
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Voting
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 8
Votes cast 5
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Dogged
Not Set