Rockfax Description
I, 100m, 1 - 2 hours. An excellent, short climb which lacks technical difficulties but not exposure.
Approach - Descend the Aiguille du Midi via the famous snow ridge before swinging around west and passing under the Midi South Face, Arête des Cosmiques and Refuge des Cosmiques to reach the foot of the route.
1) The ridge can be joined almost anywhere within 100m of the Col du Midi, but the most enjoyable scrambling is found by starting in a small snow bay just to the left of where the rock solidifies considerably.
2) Climb leftwards up a ramp before turning right and following the ridge on its crest, turning difficulties on the left.
3) 4b. Halfway to the refuge there is an awkward slab which can either downclimbed (4b) or abseiled (5m). From the foot of the slab, return to the ridge crest and continue along the ridge in a stunning position to reach the terrace at the back of the Refuge des Cosmiques.
Descent - Return to the Aiguille du Midi. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Not sure of grade-possibly AD-. The alternative route if weather is too bad to do Cosmiques Ridge. Starts from Col du Midi (3532m). As you walk away from aiguille du midi turn right to approach the ridge running south west of cosmiques hut (3817m). Mixed scramble and easy climbing but very exposed climbing across l'arete a laurence. Whole route very exposed with a particularly scary traverse near the end probably best done with some protection. A ladder at the end of the route takes you in to the back entrance of the cosmiques hut.

UPDATE: Large loose block (small lorry size) that is waiting to go down the north face near the hut end, the route traverses over the block. Would easily cut rope/slings if used for protection. Could be avoided by a very dangerous scree traverse below the block.

Ticklists: Rosie's Broken Alpine Dreaming.

davelozman 29/Sep Lead rpt
davelozman 29/Sep Lead rpt
chiverstom 25/Sep Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Sep AltLd O/S
davelozman 23/Sep Lead O/S
Oliver Livesey 20/Sep Lead rpt

Linked with cosmique

Deary65 20/Sep 2nd O/S

Good warmup to the alps :)

Ben Costello 20/Sep AltLd O/S

Linked with cosmiques which made it seem more worthwhile

Oliver Livesey 19/Sep Lead O/S

Went up gully to right

Matt Amos 19/Sep AltLd O/S

Had an alternative swim, up a very powdery gully to start the route.

Dexter JW 19/Sep AltLd O/S

Busy as hell

Hidden 17/Sep -
Hidden 17/Sep -
R0BJ0N 16/Sep Lead O/S
with Gabi Ebedo, Charlie Hornberger
galpinos 16/Sep AltLd

Lovely warm up to the Cosmiques and provides an opportunity for a quick coffee at the hut between routes.

with Sam
Pete Lindley 11/Sep AltLd
davidreeves 11/Sep -

With James. Good conditions.

JWTM 11/Sep Lead
BarneyLoosemore 10/Sep -
mattsmithuk 04/Sep AltLd O/S

Excellent route. 1hr. Some loose snow. Next time, bring no extra gear

with Barney Allen
Hidden 25/Aug AltLd O/S
Hidden 25/Aug Lead O/S
GHawksworth 20/Aug AltLd O/S
rosatb 20/Aug AltLd rpt
BHuthers 20/Aug AltLd O/S

Moving together, fun quick route

hmetoomey 20/Aug AltLd
Hidden 18/Aug Lead
Leegilbertson 16/Aug Lead G/U
with holly Duncan
Jordangask 13/Aug Lead
BlackheathDiggs 13/Aug Lead O/S

Following Pointes Laschenale traverse

Stickle Tarn 12/Aug Lead O/S

Lead novice group across. Then back to the Midi lift via Cosmique ridge

Hidden 06/Aug Solo O/S
Hidden 06/Aug Solo
seanhendo123 05/Aug AltLd
with Lamb
Lamb 05/Aug Lead O/S

Link up with Cosmiques for an active rest day.

George.D 02/Aug 2nd
wchan 02/Aug 2nd O/S
Ndawson ?/Aug AltLd O/S
stratandrew 27/Jul Lead O/S

Easy but great views.

with James Hall, Philip Jarvis
rpinto 23/Jul AltLd
Lancer 22/Jul AltLd

We did the Pointe Lachanel traverse,the Arête a Laurence and the Arête des Cosmiques, with a brief stop for lunch in Cosmiques hut- back in Chamonix for 3:30. Quite fast and moving together mostly all day. An awesome day!

with Fred
Hidden 22/Jul Lead rpt
Hidden 17/Jul 2nd
Roger Burrows 15/Jul Lead O/S

Nice little route to finish off the SHORT day after PL. Bonus was it ended at the hut and we went straight in for a bowl of hot chocolate.

with Mike
Conor McNamara 14/Jul -
Hidden 13/Jul Lead O/S
BenCollis 12/Jul Lead
mrphilipoldham 07/Jul AltLd O/S

Nice easy warm up to introduce Rob to the alpine world! Followed on to finish up Cosmiques.

Tommy Harris 07/Jul Lead O/S

Took my Wife up for her first trip up to the Midi

with Hannah
Orange 07/Jul AltLd
with Louis Kennedy
devious wally 07/Jul AltLd O/S

Moved together

Shaun Sharkey 05/Jul -
Ianhulme 03/Jul AltLd O/S
John Surcombe 03/Jul -
with Biljana, Louise P, Steve Dorrity
Louise Kresovic 03/Jul -

with Steve Dorrity, John Surcombe & Biljana Zaharieva

Gerben Neven 03/Jul 2nd O/S
Tom.Sedgwick 03/Jul -
DaveThexton 02/Jul -
with Matt Groom
PatrickRT 02/Jul AltLd rpt
ftocher 02/Jul Lead
with Alpine Ian
CHarrison 02/Jul -

Moved together no crampons

with Patrick Arty
Hidden 30/Jun AltLd
Hidden 27/Jun AltLd O/S
themattyshep 25/Jun AltLd O/S
with Rob M
Rob_Morris1996 25/Jun AltLd O/S

Nice little number! In the cloud for most of it, some scary moments when we thought a plane was flying rather low overhead... then when it didn't pass we realised it was the Tacul releasing some material!! Had hoped to carry on to the Cosmiques... but there were 13 people on the beginning ramp, we decided we didn't want to sleep in the station that night and walked round and up the death-arete.

IanHope 24/Jun 2nd O/S
with Bruce goodlad
CHarrison 24/Jun -

First Alpine route, moved together for all except the slab downclimb crux

with Adam Watson
RedEd 24/Jun 2nd
with tom, Kelly
ChrisH89 24/Jun Lead O/S

Acclimatisation route after doing Pointes Lachenal traverse. Feeling pretty rubbish, but this is short and very easy (under 1hr).

with OLGrady
Adam.Watson 24/Jun 2nd
OLGrady 24/Jun AltLd O/S
rosatb 23/Jun AltLd O/S

3rd day of conville course

K_Maywood 23/Jun Lead
duncangcampbell 23/Jun AltLd O/S

Moved together except pitch for the down climb of the hand crack slab. Crampons off after the snow up the edge of the route. Massive airy route but easy scrambling.

bljp 23/Jun -
PatrickRT 23/Jun -
with Kyle course, Ben course
Robbie Blease 20/Jun AltLd O/S
with Ben
Hidden 20/Jun -
Ashley King 20/Jun AltLd rpt

Much drier than the last time I did it. Could have done with taking crampons off at the beginning. Not too difficult.

with adawson
adawson 20/Jun AltLd rpt
Rob Moorcroft 20/Jun AltLd
with Francis Tocher
Hidden 20/Jun -
ftocher 20/Jun AltLd O/S
AliceOstrich 16/Jun 2nd

Conville course

Eloise_SW 16/Jun 2nd O/S

Instructor Matt, with David and Andy from Abu davvy (?) The way going to the hut

with Conville
Eloise_SW 16/Jun Lead rpt

From the hut to the beginning

joeramsay 16/Jun AltLd O/S

on conville. cath is god

AlexD-L 16/Jun AltLd O/S

Last day of Conville.

Meganhwclark 15/Jun AltLd
Munkynutz 14/Jun Solo O/S

very soft snow on hill up from snow bay. joined with cosmiques

JFT 12/Jun -

As part of Conville course

with Hayden
Hidden 12/Jun AltLd
lukevf 09/Jun -

Last day of conville

with Tarquin
mattdennies 09/Jun Lead O/S

Easy scrambling, moved together. Slab was down climbed with no problem. 45 minutes from glacier to hut.

with Neil, Conor
a_m154 09/Jun Lead

Fun easy scrambling. Moved together.

with Bethanie Rushworth
BradDodd 09/Jun 2nd

Route was in decent condition. Was short but enjoyable

with Andy Ovens
andrew.tyrrell 08/Jun AltLd O/S

As part of Conville course

El_Dave_H 04/Jun AltLd

50cm of fresh snow the previous night but sunshine on the route. Moved together/short pitching, around 1 hour for the route ahead of a train of about 30 people, as this was about the only route going that day.

the.proud.man 04/Jun -
HaddRoots ?/Jun Lead O/S

Done with Neil as part of Colville course - moving together intro

with Jud
Tom Seccombe 25/May Lead
with Harvey
OG ?/May 2nd
Shea 29/Apr -

Brought Alain up for his first wee route. Stunning sunshine

with Alain, Sean Martin
Shea 14/Apr -

First Alpine route for Da, had a blast. First time in the mountains. Lovely day out in great weather.

with Dad
robertgrew 23/Jan Solo
Hidden 19/Jan Solo O/S
Hidden 21/Dec/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 21/Dec/16 AltLd
Hidden 19/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Sep/16 Solo
ross83 ?/Sep/16 -
c357 13/Aug/16 Lead
PondLife 01/Aug/16 2nd
with Mauro & Nigel
Hidden 20/Jul/16 -
DavidWilby 15/Jul/16 2nd

On last day of PyB Alpine Essentials Course.

with Anna
Hidden 15/Jul/16 Lead
edhawk21 13/Jul/16 -

With icicle mountaineering. Terrible weather, strong winds and snow but at least it was warm in the hut.

Mr Fuller 09/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

Nice little route, some good positions. This is nowhere near AD though and more like Facile... very short, easy descent, next to a hut, quick access, not very high, requires use of hands on very little of the ridge, good opportunities for protection. Either way, it's a great route.

with Scott
Scott Anderson 09/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

Did this instead of Contamine - Mizaud as conditions weren't favourable. Cracking exposure but not technically hard

with Matt
CameronH 03/Jul/16 -
Hidden 02/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
Rob Pitt 01/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
with Lou
leopolian 01/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

Done on the Conville Course. Very nice and relaxed route. Nice exposure and nothing too technical. Really enjoyed it.

Naomi.P 01/Jul/16 -

Conville course. Moved together. Relaxed and fun route.

with Leo H
Jake397 ?/Jul/16 -
Ed Saint ?/Jul/16 -

A short, fun route leading up the hut. There is one awkward slab, but otherwise the route is quite straight forward.

jamesb101 29/Jun/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Jun/16 -
Michael Bonallie 28/Jun/16 AltLd
with Joe Daly
Martin Haworth 27/Jun/16 Lead O/S
Sarah Roscoe 23/Jun/16 AltLd

conville course

Hidden 23/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
Stuart Hurworth 23/Jun/16 AltLd O/S

On Conville course, moved together. Easy but exposed ridge, fun and apparently a lot of snow making it easier than normal.

Joel Miller 23/Jun/16 -
SWhite10 23/Jun/16 Lead O/S

First alpine route!

BMaybee 22/Jun/16 AltLd
Stephen3005 22/Jun/16 Lead
rosso 20/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
with Alasdair Robertson
Alfie Maun 20/Jun/16 AltLd rpt
JoeMortimer 20/Jun/16 AltLd
with Alfie
Nick Arthur 20/Jun/16 2nd

Day two of the conville course, stunning weather, so much snow!

Hidden 19/Jun/16 Solo
Hidden 19/Jun/16 2nd
JennyBroomby 18/Jun/16 -
Hidden 17/Jun/16 Lead O/S
Ashley King 10/Jun/16 AltLd

First alpine route. Short but very fun, would do again.

with adawson
lucyvass 10/Jun/16 -
JonoDHawkins 10/Jun/16 AltLd O/S

Last day of the Conville Course.

adawson 10/Jun/16 AltLd

First alpine route on the final day of Conville in sunshine and clear skies. Moved together finishing at the Cosmiques hut then back on to the Vallée Blanche to practice crevasse rescue and back up the Midi Arete.

with Ashley King, Conville Dan, Richard Mansfield
teh_mark 06/Jun/16 -

A few mixed steps towards the end, but mostly entirely a snow ridge. Very easy, but felt serious in the conditions.

with Mike Daniels
Claire Noble 06/Jun/16 -

First alpine route on the second day of Conville. Fun route, made easier by the fact it was very snowy. Moved together, placing some runners.

huwaaron ??/2016 -
MichaelGallimore 29/Dec/15 Lead

Moved together then pitched the downward traverse. Cosmiques hut was closed so we had to reverse the route and run across the col and back up the arête du midi to catch the last cable car. Very tiring as it was only our second day at altitude.

JendeHoxar 29/Dec/15 -

Did this twice! Once south to north, moving together for all but the traverse near the end. Got to the platform at the Cosmiques Refuge, and the door was locked and no other way off the platform! So had to do the route again north to south in double quick time then race across the Col du Midi to avoid missing the last cable car.

with Mike
l21bjd 18/Sep/15 AltLd

Climbed as a two, with (unroped) guide giving directions. Lots of fresh snow on route.

Hidden 12/Sep/15 -
steve_gibbs 18/Aug/15 AltLd rpt
zcsharp 18/Aug/15 AltLd
Sam Ash 06/Aug/15 AltLd
Dawn_K_B 06/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Before the Cosmiques. Dry but nice rock.

Zoe Cockburn ?/Aug/15 -
Kinge 14/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Owen Williams
Hidden 03/Jul/15 -
JdotP ?/Jul/15 -
with The innocent one, Magda Borkowska
Hidden 26/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
smithjmw46 26/Jun/15 -
edjenkins 26/Jun/15 -

Final day of Conville

Rebs 22/Jun/15 Lead
with Rob
John1458 22/Jun/15 -

Second day of Conville Course

Hidden 22/Jun/15 -
adam.wood 22/Jun/15 -

Second day of conville with Ponte lachenal for a good acclim day

DanOsb 18/Jun/15 -
Alfie Maun 16/Jun/15 AltLd
with John Kitching, Jocelyn Trottet
Pina 16/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 13/Jun/15 Solo
Hidden 09/Jun/15 AltLd
Hidden 04/Jun/15 -
Hugh Simons 04/Jun/15 -
calumhicks 04/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
with Hugh Simons, Adam Harris
emilyjhunt ?/Jun/15 2nd
with Phil Dowthwaite, Ruth Sullivan
Hidden ?/Jun/15 -
Eagertom ?/Jun/15 2nd
Hidden 06/Jan/15 AltLd O/S
bedsforsleepypeople ??/2015 -
James Charatan 09/Oct/14 -
Simon Gompertz 09/Oct/14 -

Pleasant scramble with a bit of protection needed along the way. Crampons off.

marr.simon 10/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

First alpine route! Really nice way to get into it. WMAM 14

Jordangask 10/Sep/14 Lead
hp8g12 10/Sep/14 AltLd
DigitalSteak 06/Sep/14 Lead O/S
jhobbs 18/Jul/14 -
Michael 17/Jul/14 -
Hidden 27/Jun/14 Lead
Hidden 15/Jun/14 2nd β
s.tietz 12/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Climbed route during Conville Course (our guide was Dave). Moved together for most of it. Rock traverse towards the end required a bit of belaying. Had half of an 8€ omelette in the Cosmique hut afterwards, which didn't stay down due to altitude sickness.

with Klaudia Konkolova, Heather Rumble
heathergotrumbled 12/Jun/14 2nd O/S

First rock outing in crampons. Exposed and scary but will probably end up being type 3 fun.

with ST
Hidden 09/Jun/14 2nd O/S
Iain_L_32 09/Jun/14 -
Hidden ?/Jun/14 2nd
Hidden ?/Jun/14 -
adamwesthead 20/Sep/13 Lead rpt

Totally different to last time now snow covered

with Dad, Forshaw
Mick Riley 19/Sep/13 2nd

Winter conditions and high wind

morpcat 11/Sep/13 2nd

Moved together with rock spikes for pro. Nice route if you like crazy amounts of exposure.

wilkinscl 11/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Very snowy, very easy going for the most part with the odd 'move'. Exposure is fantastic in sections. Especially as snow bridges had formed between the boulders leading to my second post holing into space more than once.

adamwesthead 07/Sep/13 Solo O/S

No snow at all. Just a scramble. Did an awkward abseil down the slab traverse.

with Zeb
zebster 07/Sep/13 Solo O/S
with Adam
jack.williams1 05/Sep/13 AltLd
masmith 05/Sep/13 AltLd
with Cathy Burke, Jack Williams
c357 27/Jul/13 -
Hidden 19/Jul/13 Lead
Hidden 13/Jul/13 2nd
BoulderyDave 13/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Very lean but a great route.

Alpenglow 05/Jul/13 AltLd

Moved together. Done with Conville course.

OwenDT 05/Jul/13 AltLd
Hidden 05/Jul/13 -
Hidden 05/Jul/13 AltLd
Hidden 05/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 02/Jul/13 -
steve_gibbs 02/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
with Ali D
KatOstrich 28/Jun/13 2nd


Hidden 28/Jun/13 2nd O/S
2010_graham 28/Jun/13 -
Charlotte Nelson 17/Jun/13 -
Brian Pollock 11/Jun/13 Lead O/S
rashwell ?/Jun/13 2nd

First Alpine route

AdamH ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
Jordangask 07/Sep/12 AltLd
Jordangask 05/Sep/12 2nd
Ashley Hold ?/Sep/12 AltLd
Hidden ?/Sep/12 AltLd
wendynicholls 18/Jul/12 AltLd

Led the arête as far as hut.

with Dominic Saul, Richard DuPont
Hidden 08/Jul/12 Lead
jimmatthews 05/Jul/12 Lead

Conville Course Day 2

masmith 05/Jul/12 AltLd
with Michael Mason, Jamie Roberts
AMJ098 03/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
android_lloyd ?/Jul/12 -
OwenF ?/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Stormed over it in a huff, sorry James!

franksnb ?/Jul/12 Lead O/S

nice way to get to the cosmique hut. 1 hour

stewart100 30/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
AMJ098 30/Jun/12 AltLd
trivett 26/Jun/12 -

On the conville course in awful weather!

with Luke Davies, Luke Dyer
jon_ridley 22/Jun/12 AltLd
becoming-stranger 22/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
Emily Cropton 22/Jun/12 AltLd
Hidden 21/Jun/12 2nd
Hidden 16/Jun/12 -
Hidden 16/Jun/12 -
K Mckay 16/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 05/Jun/12 2nd
barneythevelociraptor ?/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

Definetly harder than PD+, exposure was immmense and wouldn't have wanted to do the moves without protection. Amazing climb but completed in about an hour being chased from a storm of Tacul

Flett ??/2012 -
The Bad Cough 31/Jul/11 Lead O/S
jon22 31/Jul/11 2nd
Strachan ?/Jul/11 -


Petarghh 12/Jun/11 -
perfectvirus 15/Sep/09 -
with MountainMing
MountainMing 15/Sep/09 Lead

Rigde of death! 60m wind, snow and huge exposure

with perfectvirus
Ross L 07/Sep/09 2nd O/S
with Ian, Jon Bracey
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High AD-
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High PD+
Mid PD+
Low PD+
High PD
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Low PD
High PD-
Mid PD-
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Votes cast 15
Votes cast 13
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set