45m. A fine route, but has a poorly portected section. Start 3m left of the pillar
then climb up to the base of the arete, befor climbing it.

Andy Nisbet & Rick Allen May/1984

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Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes, UK Holiday Plans, 3 and 4 star E2 5b routes in Scotland

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
pete johnson 29 May Lead O/S
tim whitaker 29 May Lead
Violinist 24 Apr 2nd O/S
fuzzysheep01 24 Apr Lead O/S I think this is arguably better than The Pillar. Tricky near the groove at the bottom (face climbed to the right of the crack) then easier airy moves to the base of the arete. The arete is exceptional - thin, very bold (I got one questionable runner after getting on the arete) and a bit of a climax at the top. Superb, underrated route.
I think this is arguably better than The Pillar. Tricky near the groove at the bottom (face climbed to the right of the crack) then easier airy moves to the base of the arete. The arete is exceptional - thin, very bold (I got one questionable runner after getting on the arete) and a bit of a climax at the top. Superb, underrated route.
LucaC 27 Feb 2nd O/S
ian d f ?Jun, 2017 Lead O/S The initial groove was poorly protected and, as you get increasing run-out, the holds become quite friable. Seemed dangerous and unpleasant to me, not at all recommended. Finished up The Pillar, which is, in contrast, worthy of its stars.
with Pete H
The initial groove was poorly protected and, as you get increasing run-out, the holds become quite friable. Seemed dangerous and unpleasant to me, not at all recommended. Finished up The Pillar, which is, in contrast, worthy of its stars.
with Pete H
Hugh Simons 4 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S Bold in the top half, but there is some gear if you look for it. Equally as good as The Pillar in my opinion, and harder. Good line and great route.
Bold in the top half, but there is some gear if you look for it. Equally as good as The Pillar in my opinion, and harder. Good line and great route.
mzchambers 8 Jun, 2016 Lead O/S Amazing route!! Lead in one pitch
with annep
Amazing route!! Lead in one pitch
with annep
annep 8 Jun, 2016 2nd
roryohm 7 Apr, 2016 -
with gforce
with gforce
gforce 7 Apr, 2016 Lead In the evening sunshine after doing the Liathach traverse in the afternoon.
with roryohm
In the evening sunshine after doing the Liathach traverse in the afternoon.
with roryohm
masa-alpin 18 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S Excellent route! Done in a pure style, following the arete. Enough gear was found.
Excellent route! Done in a pure style, following the arete. Enough gear was found.
Steve Perry 18 Sep, 2015 2nd O/S Masa led it in one pitch. Exceptionally good, not as good as Pillar but still amazing.
Masa led it in one pitch. Exceptionally good, not as good as Pillar but still amazing.
Alex@home 4 May, 2015 Lead dnf Last route of the trip. Reasonable small wires followed by 5m of unprotected tenuous climbing to top of the initial groove led to some hollow and friable holds and no more gear. Eventually climbed a bit higher to find 2 unconvincing wires and more friable holds. Backed off to the rest at top of groove and decided it wasn't worth it so traversed into pillar and down climbed that instead
with The Doctor
Last route of the trip. Reasonable small wires followed by 5m of unprotected tenuous climbing to top of the initial groove led to some hollow and friable holds and no more gear. Eventually climbed a bit higher to find 2 unconvincing wires and more friable holds. Backed off to the rest at top of groove and decided it wasn't worth it so traversed into pillar and down climbed that instead
with The Doctor
harold walmsley 30 Jul, 2014 2nd O/S Forced on to slab finish by the onset of rain, probably E1 like this.
with George Gilmore
Forced on to slab finish by the onset of rain, probably E1 like this.
with George Gilmore
Hidden 12 Mar, 2014 Lead dnf
sparbus 24 Aug, 2013 AltLd Led pitch 2. Got no decent runners till virtually the top.
with dave porter
Led pitch 2. Got no decent runners till virtually the top.
with dave porter
Andy Moles 30 Mar, 2013 Lead O/S
with Iain Murray
with Iain Murray
Hidden 17 Jan, 2013 Lead
mshorter 25 Jun, 2012 Lead O/S
with erika + ry
with erika + ry
Captain Solo 20 May, 2012 Lead A bit hairy up the arete, done as single pitch.
with Heike
A bit hairy up the arete, done as single pitch.
with Heike
henwardian 23 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S Great line, almost as good as the pillar itself. 3 stars, works fine as single pitch.
with Fraser-with-the-beard
Great line, almost as good as the pillar itself. 3 stars, works fine as single pitch.
with Fraser-with-the-beard
Hidden 2 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S
Hidden 11 Apr, 2010 Lead O/S
dominic lee 15 Aug, 2003 TR
with S Hunt
with S Hunt
Chad123 ??, 1999 -
Hidden ?Jun, 1998 Lead
Hidden ?Jun, 1998 AltLd
Cassidy ?Jun, 1997 2nd β
with David Cassidy
with David Cassidy
Dave Musgrove Jnr 12 Jun, 1996 2nd
with Glenn Henry, Nick Ashton
with Glenn Henry, Nick Ashton
Hidden ?May, 1995 AltLd O/S
Hidden 1 Jun, 1993 Lead O/S
andybirtwistle 29 May, 1993 Lead
with Malcolm Rowe
with Malcolm Rowe
Hidden ??, 1993 2nd
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