400m, 10 pitches. The new guide route and most popular way up the mountain. Takes the fluting directly below the summit. Cross the glacier to the base of the face, cross the bergshrund and two pitches of snow gets you to the ice. Six pitches of ice, usually with in-situ abalaklovs will see you to the summit. Abseil back down the route to descend.

Simon Allcock ?/Jun/16 2nd dnf

not acclimatised. barely started

Mr. K 26/Jul/15 AltLd dnf

Started late due to malfunctioning stove and questionable weather, turned back four pitches from the top so about half-way due to time and cold.

with Urs Musch
Nelson Pelson ?/Aug/12 -
Ed Lau 27/Jul/12 2nd O/S

Not hard or technically difficult, but lots of falling ice and dinner plating. Wasn't as busy as feared as we had the whole face to ourselves.

tskelhon 18/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Absolutely sick! Not to technically challenging, ice never steeper than 80degrees. 14hrs rtn from moraine camp

with Tim Slater, chris davis
Hidden 18/Aug/11 AltLd
Hidden ?/Aug/11 2nd O/S
les_phoques ?/Aug/11 2nd
DrJon 27/Jun/11 2nd O/S

Ladder needed over bergshrund, straihgforward from there but lots of ice falling!

with JG
Hidden ?/Jul/09 2nd
jonnie3430 ?/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
with Stu
Julli 22/Jul/07 2nd O/S

Running belay

with Arri Leino
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