UKC

3798m. This is now the standard approach route, and can be varied to include the Salm hutte. Excellent path to Studlhutte. Follow traverse path NE to cross Kodnitzkees glacier (crevasses, though not too bad but rope up). Short section of ferrata spot of scrambling lead to Erherzog Johannhutte. Glacier NW leads steeply up gully to superb summit ridge (belay poles, many sloppy complacent accidents here, use them). Reach foresummit of Kleinglockner and one of the worst traffic jams in the alps caused by narrow snow ridge and dif-ish wall scramble out of it. Summit marked by large ornate cross. Fit mountaineers with alpine start can crack this 1880m of ascent easily in one day getting back across galcier before 1pm). More common to take two staying one of the huts.

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