Rockfax Description
Clean climbing throughout. One brief hard move at the top to a massive jug. © Rockfax

FA. J.Parsons 10.8.97 10/Aug/1997

Ticklists: Portland.

bigbobbyking 29/Aug/16 Lead dog

Didn't remember doing this before. Looks like I made the same mistake again.

with Sesh
Hidden 23/Aug/16 Lead β
Carl 21/Aug/16 Lead dnf

Felt some rain and didn't want to abandon any gear, so pulled on a draw to get through the crux then climbed on to the top. Otherwise a really nice route!

with Jessie Reid
Hidden 16/Aug/16 TR dnf
chancer 14/Aug/16 Lead rpt
with Ed Wigmore
hotfeet 14/Aug/16 Lead
Joe Mathers 10/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Aug/16 Lead
td72 30/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Katie
Jen Jones 30/Jul/16 2nd
guy127917 30/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Jen
fharnish13 26/Jul/16 Lead β
with Zee2403
Matt Smith 25/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Emily Brice , Ed Tillard
CamK 17/Jul/16 TR O/S
Linc 16/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Kay
gemmatrickey 18/Jun/16 Lead rpt
tyho 05/Jun/16 Lead O/S
with Toby Evans
Rockmonkey1977 31/May/16 Lead O/S

Enjoyable climbing.

Hidden 28/May/16 TR dog
Chris Sansum 15/May/16 Lead O/S
with Lucy Matthews
tsyrett 07/May/16 Lead rpt

Bit greasy today making the crimps feel pretty poor

Hidden 01/May/16 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/16 -
DorsetGareth 30/Apr/16 Lead β
Martin Bagshaw 06/Mar/16 Lead O/S
with Mullet, Jadey Lewis
Roland stopps ??/2016 Lead
Alkis 24/Oct/15 Lead G/U

The flat ledge and both crimps on the crux were soaked and spat me off. Dried it and it went second go.

with David Noor
cem 27/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with Frederik Seelig
gemmatrickey 20/Sep/15 TR β
tsyrett 06/Sep/15 Lead β
Robmwatt ?/Sep/15 -
Hidden 30/Jul/15 Lead dog
Hidden 28/Jul/15 2nd dog
SDM 18/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Michael
Hidden 18/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Jul/15 Lead β
duncan 04/Jul/15 Lead rpt
with Sean Smith
xiangoh ?/Jul/15 Lead O/S
hervenuttall ?/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Doug
Hidden 06/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Alex Eperon 04/May/15 Lead dnf


Sam4242 06/Apr/15 Lead β
ElArt 06/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Rupey 01/Nov/14 Lead O/S
with alan
RadekNowak 24/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Rosea Day 10/Aug/14 Lead O/S
dready 16/Jul/14 Lead dog

top important holds are polished on this...

Jonathan Emett 15/Jun/14 Lead rpt
with Angela
Dawlish 25/May/14 2nd dnf
with neil
mattgrange 25/May/14 TR β


Laramadness 25/May/14 Lead dog
slugger5uk 24/May/14 Lead dog
Hidden 03/May/14 2nd O/S
sonic46 19/Apr/14 2nd
Hidden 13/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Monkey_Alan 23/Mar/14 Lead dog
Hidden 23/Mar/14 Lead G/U
rd20 15/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Ian Caton, Abi Chard
Hidden 15/Mar/14 Lead O/S
cpoad 15/Mar/14 Lead dog

One tough crimpy move

with Pete M (CC)
kingborris ??/2014 -
bsparky 17/Sep/13 2nd dog
with Markus
James_L88 14/Sep/13 Lead RP

Top roped once first, then led clean.

with Markus
Rafal Malczyk 19/Aug/13 Lead dnf
with Michael Jenei
Paul Hy 10/Aug/13 TR dog
with Becky
Uberpussy 10/Aug/13 Lead RP
Hidden 10/Aug/13 2nd dog
amyrosemason 10/Aug/13 TR dog
with Howett
Hidden 10/Aug/13 TR
Hidden 10/Aug/13 TR dog
Hidden 10/Aug/13 Lead β
TomLanc 04/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Jonathan Emett 04/Aug/13 Lead rpt
with Paul
Hidden 04/Aug/13 Lead dog
trannumrahim 28/Jul/13 Lead dog
with Ewan Panter
philhaigh 18/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Shamina Kapadia, Natalie Haigh
trannumrahim 14/Jul/13 Lead dog
with Rich
JHC 14/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Ian Bell 13/Jul/13 Lead dog

Greased off the holds just as I reached for the jug. Got it 2nd go. Nice.

with Tania T
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 27/May/13 Lead rpt
with Steph
Steph Roberts 27/May/13 Lead RP

First 6b. 4 redpoints.

with Sam
Peter Lovell 27/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/May/13 Lead β
tomB 26/May/13 Lead dog
with Andy Gardiner
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 28/Apr/13 Lead rpt
Steph Roberts 28/Apr/13 Lead dog
with Rob Gates, Sam
will_benfold 28/Apr/13 Lead dnf
Hidden 28/Apr/13 2nd
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 21/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Steph Roberts 21/Apr/13 Lead dog

One rest at the crux.

maybe_si 20/Apr/13 Lead O/S
tiffanykate12 20/Apr/13 2nd
Adam_42 17/Feb/13 Lead O/S
with Tom Stubington
Hidden 29/Sep/12 Lead O/S
robajob 29/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Twisty 07/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Greg Slee
Julesthe1st 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Mike
tom_greenwich 08/Jul/12 Lead dog
UnkArl 08/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Hardest part of this route is getting the last quickdraw in as it's half-way through the 6b crux! (unless you're over 6ft). And that jug is MASSIVE!

with Matt, Des
Louise Hall 19/Jun/12 TR dog

Couldn't quite reach the jug in the middle section so may have slightly pulled on the rope to reach it. Will get it next time :) Lovely climb though!

Hidden 16/Jun/12 Lead β
Hidden 04/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Radical-G 04/Jun/12 Lead β
Patrick Hill ?/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Ian Bell 21/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Lead and then afterwards TR clean to get the gear back as it started raining.

Hidden 07/Apr/12 Lead dog
martin one 25/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with jeremy, Tim
Hidden 25/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Rachel S 02/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Sally
givemetea 02/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Abi Chard
Abi Chard 02/Mar/12 Lead O/S
RichardN 29/Jan/12 Lead dnf

backed off at 4th bolt

dale1968 11/Nov/11 2nd
with Tom
Hidden 11/Nov/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 29/Oct/11 2nd
deejmonkey 18/Sep/11 Lead
Jonathan Emett 17/Sep/11 Lead rpt
with darryl
gibsond 17/Sep/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 04/Sep/11 Lead RP
Monkey_Alan 04/Sep/11 Lead O/S

Crux move is tricky, but nice once you've worked it out.

Bob M 04/Sep/11 2nd dog
louby 13/Aug/11 TR
chris_B 13/Aug/11 Lead dog
dswansonlow 27/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Keith Jackson
Hidden 24/Jul/11 Lead O/S
elCapitano 13/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Jul/11 Lead RP
Danstephens 30/Jun/11 Lead dog
Hidden 19/Jun/11 Lead O/S
adrianj 18/Jun/11 Lead dog
fildac 04/Jun/11 Lead dog
Hidden 22/May/11 Lead O/S
lewiz 22/May/11 Lead O/S

First F6b onsight? Too soft for F6b.

mishtu 22/May/11 2nd
with lewiz
chris sm 14/May/11 Lead rpt
katiep 06/Apr/11 Lead O/S

I was so pleased at the massive jug

with Callan
tradguy 20/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Mark Hazell
wi11 17/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Nat
natalietanzer 17/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with will
Hidden 12/Mar/11 Lead rpt
yarrow 12/Mar/11 Lead
Hidden 17/Oct/10 TR β
Jonathan Emett 17/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with gary
Alex More 30/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Parko
Ben Harper 15/Aug/10 Lead RP
with Cat
duncan 31/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Jan Zapal
andy jennings 31/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Momber
David Alldis 14/Jul/10 Lead RP
with thomas dixon
Hidden 09/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Singleton_Alex ?/Jun/10 Lead
Hidden 23/May/10 TR dog
becster 01/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Apr/10 Lead dog
Didymus 05/Apr/10 Lead dnf
with Marcus
bigbobbyking 04/Apr/10 Lead RP

Missed the crucial side pull on the crux on my first attempt. Clean second go. Nice.

with Henry Northern
ThomasB ?/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Dan_Carroll 21/Feb/10 Lead O/S
Jane Weir ??/2010 -
Ed Babs 31/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with Mike Hawkins
pete_fewings ?/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Chris the Tall 27/Sep/09 Lead O/S

Easy until the last move

with Ade Kirk
Jack R-N 12/Sep/09 Lead RP
KarlH 29/Aug/09 Lead dog

One rest at the last bolt.

with Portland Party Group
mattgrange 09/Aug/09 Lead dog

Easy but nicely technical, had to work for the last moves though!

mjeffery 29/Jul/09 Lead
clairejane ?/Jun/09 Lead O/S

first 6b onsight

with simon sharma crook
tobydunford 23/May/09 Lead rpt
with Harry Martin
Sime64 03/May/09 TR dnf
with Janet
embob 13/Apr/09 2nd

Great rock over to huge holds.

with Alex
Hidden 13/Apr/09 Lead
jw231 21/Mar/09 Lead O/S
nblackbeard 21/Mar/09 Lead O/S

& Tom Grant. Quite easy until the top... Not sure if i went too far to the left :-s

Hidden 02/Mar/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Feb/09 Lead O/S
rhino_bill 03/Oct/08 Lead O/S
cliffy 17/Aug/08 Lead dog
PilarMartinez 17/Aug/08 2nd
with cliffy
Julie Carroll 16/Aug/08 Lead dog
with kathie, jan
Kyle F ?/Aug/08 TR
MarkRyder 29/Jun/08 Lead RP
with Rich
vertigo 29/Jun/08 Lead β
Hidden 28/Jun/08 Lead β
98%monkey 14/Jun/08 Lead O/S

Top of this was greasy and some holds had congealed chalk on them. took a move to the left which may be not on spec. Will try direct when I have a brus.

with Flatcap
flatcap 14/Jun/08 TR dog

Not too bad a performance. As for the crux, I nearly managed to work a direct route (but not quite). I'll be back for this one.

with Phil
Sandy Holford 06/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Anthony Allsopp 06/Jun/08 Lead O/S
nevostevo 31/May/08 TR RP
with andy
Hidden 31/May/08 TR RP
Richard Horn 18/Mar/08 Lead O/S
AlexD 25/Feb/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Jan/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Jan/08 Lead O/S
Dandan82 ??/2008 Lead O/S
with Rich
Hidden 15/Sep/07 Lead dnf
dobby 200 09/Sep/07 Lead rpt
Hidden 01/Sep/07 Lead dog
spacey 27/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with jo macey
Jarin 04/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Robin
markju 10/Jun/07 Lead dog

this is a gem!! managed (just) to clip the last bolt and pulled me up... but did the move the second attempt with a heel hook and just reach the jug... will be doing that one again.. thanks Roger for belaying

with Roger
ecowaller 31/Mar/07 Lead O/S
with Paula
timharrison 28/Oct/06 Lead rpt
tobydunford 07/Oct/06 Lead dog

Spent about an hour trying the wrong sequence until i eventually took an awesome whipper! Once i found the correct sequence t'was pretty straight forward!

timharrison 03/Sep/06 Lead rpt
with Suse
timharrison 03/Sep/06 Lead rpt
with Suse
Marq 25/Jun/06 Lead dog

one rest

with Vicky Hill
chris sm 10/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Pippa Froggatt
Rokmunky 14/May/06 Lead O/S
mc1105 ?/May/06 Lead
dannyboy83 ?/May/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Apr/06 Lead dog
Hidden 09/Apr/06 Lead dog
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
Scott N ??/2006 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Oct/05 Lead RP
Hidden ?/Oct/05 2nd O/S
jl 09/Aug/05 Lead dog
with Rachel
timharrison ?/Jul/05 Lead rpt
Stefan Kruger 07/May/05 Lead O/S
with Sarah Porter
homing-penguin 25/Aug/04 Lead dog
Owen W-G 01/Aug/04 Lead O/S
with Wilbur
goi.ashmore 15/May/04 Lead O/S
with Duncan Powell
Hidden 12/Apr/03 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Jun/02 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Apr/02 Lead O/S
Mark A Humphries 21/Apr/02 Lead β
with dean howard
Hidden 31/Dec/01 Lead O/S
The Jazz Butcher ??/1995 -
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High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
Votes cast 39
Votes cast 39
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set