13m.

Rockfax Description
A good, technical roof and wall problem that gives by far and away the hardest move (or two) at the cliff. © Rockfax

FA. Mike Vaicaitis 20/Jul/1997

Ticklists

Portland, Portland 7a/+

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UserDateNotes
The Jazz Butcher 18 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Nice moves over the roof, but certainly harder for the tall. However, I can't complain as this is not very often the case.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Nice moves over the roof, but certainly harder for the tall. However, I can't complain as this is not very often the case.
crispygts 21 Sep, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Nice moves over the crux, but what the hell happens at the top? do you go left to the high belay or finish at the double bolts in line with the rest of the route???
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Nice moves over the crux, but what the hell happens at the top? do you go left to the high belay or finish at the double bolts in line with the rest of the route???
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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
NJaycock 9 Jun Lead dog
with Brad Fry, Sean
with Brad Fry, Sean
luke glaister 27 May Lead β First flash of this grade. Jim went first so seen where to go and clips in made it easier. But are take it.
First flash of this grade. Jim went first so seen where to go and clips in made it easier. But are take it.
derryclimbs 27 May TR dog First try on a 7a+. Can certainly see all the moves, just need to be able to piece it all together for the lead.
First try on a 7a+. Can certainly see all the moves, just need to be able to piece it all together for the lead.
CRiddiford 27 May Lead dog
with Katie, ClemB
with Katie, ClemB
edoardogaude 26 May Lead dog
marcb 11 May Lead β Saw the holds lowering off of the 6b+ to the right.
with Michael Moore
Saw the holds lowering off of the 6b+ to the right.
with Michael Moore
pfweller 5 May Lead RP
Guslayton 28 Apr Lead RP
Kike Kikon 3 Nov, 2018 Lead O/S Couple hard moves. Soft
Couple hard moves. Soft
Hidden 16 Sep, 2018 Lead RP
Phippy 16 Sep, 2018 Lead RP
Phippy 9 Sep, 2018 TR β
igola 25 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S
mop449 21 Jul, 2018 Lead RP Second go. Should have flashed. Soft.
Second go. Should have flashed. Soft.
merlin138 21 Jul, 2018 Lead G/U Snagged my belay loop on draw coming over the lip of the roof, dead stop. Finished from there.
Snagged my belay loop on draw coming over the lip of the roof, dead stop. Finished from there.
TravisDean 19 Jul, 2018 -
davidrblakeman 15 Jul, 2018 Lead dog
davidrblakeman 15 Jul, 2018 TR rpt
Ben Harper 16 Jun, 2018 Lead RP
dannyboy83 16 Jun, 2018 Lead RP
slowmotion 16 Jun, 2018 Lead dog
chancer 19 May, 2018 TR dog
with Marc Duhig
with Marc Duhig
Ian MK 19 May, 2018 Lead G/U
Hidden 7 May, 2018 TR dog
Hidden 11 Apr, 2018 Lead RP
Hidden 6 Nov, 2017 TR dog
Kayface42 6 Nov, 2017 TR RP
Jandwilson 4 Nov, 2017 Lead β
Jwatson 4 Nov, 2017 Lead RP 2nd go
2nd go
Maynard 9 Sep, 2017 Lead O/S Felt very soft, but quality route. Roof moves were cool.
Felt very soft, but quality route. Roof moves were cool.
Hidden 19 Aug, 2017 Lead rpt
Kayface42 19 Aug, 2017 TR dog
with Linc
with Linc
Hidden 12 Aug, 2017 TR rpt
Kayface42 10 Aug, 2017 TR dog One rest at the crux.
with Linc
One rest at the crux.
with Linc
ssutton 5 Aug, 2017 TR dog
with Markus
with Markus
Hidden 15 Jul, 2017 Lead rpt
Kayface42 8 Jul, 2017 Lead dog Potential project. Loved it but couldn't figure out what to grab over the roof.
Potential project. Loved it but couldn't figure out what to grab over the roof.
cdpuk 8 Jul, 2017 Lead dog End of day. Repeated the top section 3 times in an attempt to remember it for next time!
End of day. Repeated the top section 3 times in an attempt to remember it for next time!
Carnie Lisa 8 Jul, 2017 2nd dnf
Connorolfe 14 May, 2017 Lead RP
fatchild 19 Mar, 2017 Lead dnf
tonevert 25 Sep, 2016 Lead rpt
with Paloma
with Paloma
Chops 24 Sep, 2016 Lead dog
with Derryn
with Derryn
La benya 21 Aug, 2016 Lead β
marcduhig 31 Jul, 2016 Lead RP 2nd go
2nd go
td72 30 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S good route fun pulling over the overhang, soft?
with katie93
good route fun pulling over the overhang, soft?
with katie93
Hidden 30 Jul, 2016 Lead β
La Mont 19 Jul, 2016 Lead rpt
with Abi
with Abi
Hidden 16 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S
Kap 30 May, 2016 TR RP
tsyrett 7 May, 2016 TR dog Had a quick go at the end of the session as the rope was up. Climbed in 2 halves so feels doable as long as i can stick the move after the roof
Had a quick go at the end of the session as the rope was up. Climbed in 2 halves so feels doable as long as i can stick the move after the roof
Hidden 30 Apr, 2016 Lead dog
Flavio 30 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S
Hidden 9 Dec, 2015 Lead O/S
wyzfen 27 Sep, 2015 TR dog
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 19 Jul, 2015 Lead rpt
Hidden 18 Jul, 2015 Lead dnf
SDM 18 Jul, 2015 Lead dog May have gone a bit far right at the top?
May have gone a bit far right at the top?
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 11 Jul, 2015 Lead rpt
hervenuttall ?Jul, 2015 Lead O/S very very very soft, not 7a+ any day of the week
with Doug
very very very soft, not 7a+ any day of the week
with Doug
James_L88 6 Jun, 2015 Lead dog
with Debbie Hoskins, UnkArl
with Debbie Hoskins, UnkArl
mdjb 31 May, 2015 -
James_L88 31 May, 2015 Lead dog Worked moves - didn't manage to squeeze in an RP attempt.
with mdjb
Worked moves - didn't manage to squeeze in an RP attempt.
with mdjb
Hidden 26 Oct, 2014 Lead RP
EleanorWOY 26 Oct, 2014 2nd dog Powerful, bold moves over and above the roof.
Powerful, bold moves over and above the roof.
RadekNowak 23 Aug, 2014 Lead RP 1st RP. failed one move before he chains on OS attempt.
1st RP. failed one move before he chains on OS attempt.
samparsons 15 Aug, 2014 Lead rpt Got it! After having 2 weeks off it I walked up to it Friday and got it clean as a whistle putting the draws in as I went, great climb. First tried 27 Jul 2014
Got it! After having 2 weeks off it I walked up to it Friday and got it clean as a whistle putting the draws in as I went, great climb. First tried 27 Jul 2014
drcorbasisgod 19 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
richardashe 8 Jun, 2014 Lead RP Thought the move getting through the roof was tough enough, though maybe that's a consequence of my lanky legs and too many possible small holds all over the place. Good route.
Thought the move getting through the roof was tough enough, though maybe that's a consequence of my lanky legs and too many possible small holds all over the place. Good route.
Cheese Monkey 9 May, 2014 Lead dnf
Alex Winter 9 May, 2014 Lead RP Nearly flashed. Got is easily first RP.
with Ben's stag
Nearly flashed. Got is easily first RP.
with Ben's stag
rhoslynfrugtniet 16 Nov, 2013 -
Adam_42 16 Nov, 2013 Lead β Bit soft for 7a+? Thanks go to Beth for pre-route psyching up.
with Beth Frugtniet
Bit soft for 7a+? Thanks go to Beth for pre-route psyching up.
with Beth Frugtniet
James_L88 14 Sep, 2013 TR β
with UnkArl
with UnkArl
UnkArl 14 Sep, 2013 Lead RP
Hidden 20 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 10 Aug, 2013 Lead RP
joshchalke 4 Aug, 2013 TR bit of tight rope :)
bit of tight rope :)
Jonathan Emett 4 Aug, 2013 Lead rpt 2nd go
with Paul
2nd go
with Paul
Dave138 ?Aug, 2013 TR O/S Really wish i had lead this instead of toproping it first - as ran out of time, light and energy to lead afterwards.
Really wish i had lead this instead of toproping it first - as ran out of time, light and energy to lead afterwards.
farley-hulse89 21 Jul, 2013 TR dog
with Wayne Murphy
with Wayne Murphy
Hidden 23 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S
Sami Mandeel 21 Jun, 2013 Lead RP
Sami Mandeel 13 Jun, 2013 Lead dog Didn't stick the crimp for making the next clip after coming out of the roof. Bollocks.
with Shamina
Didn't stick the crimp for making the next clip after coming out of the roof. Bollocks.
with Shamina
philhaigh 13 Jun, 2013 2nd dog
Hidden 4 Jun, 2013 Lead RP
LucasHarazin 27 May, 2013 Lead O/S
ambrooker 5 May, 2013 Lead RP
with Zappa, chiverstom
with Zappa, chiverstom
sammo247 4 May, 2013 Lead RP
Hidden 28 Apr, 2013 TR dog
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 28 Apr, 2013 Lead rpt Nice route - was mega greasy on the middle section over the roof, the top went straight up the arete and didnt sneak off into the corner by the other lower offs.
Nice route - was mega greasy on the middle section over the roof, the top went straight up the arete and didnt sneak off into the corner by the other lower offs.
Sami Mandeel 21 Apr, 2013 2nd dog
chiverstom 17 Feb, 2013 Lead RP
ambrooker 17 Feb, 2013 TR dnf Plan to go back to RP
Plan to go back to RP
Twisty 7 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S Nice route, went left at the top as straight up looked a little easy (it wasn't) but going left was nails and well off route, well away from the bolt. 2nd go clean.
with Greg Slee
Nice route, went left at the top as straight up looked a little easy (it wasn't) but going left was nails and well off route, well away from the bolt. 2nd go clean.
with Greg Slee
joe1joe1joe2 20 Jun, 2012 Lead β All these routes were climbed between 15th-22nd June 2012. Fantastic climbing. I was given Beta for this route to get through the roof, but when it came to the roof move I completely ignored the beta and put the other heel up! First ever route I have flashed in the grade of 7. And it was a 7a+, once you get through the roof and climb past a few crimps the jug of glory saved me, so I could get rid of the pump!
All these routes were climbed between 15th-22nd June 2012. Fantastic climbing. I was given Beta for this route to get through the roof, but when it came to the roof move I completely ignored the beta and put the other heel up! First ever route I have flashed in the grade of 7. And it was a 7a+, once you get through the roof and climb past a few crimps the jug of glory saved me, so I could get rid of the pump!
Hidden 4 Jun, 2012 Lead RP
Hidden 8 Apr, 2012 -
efrance24234 8 Apr, 2012 Lead RP bolt to bolt then pulled rope and did first go
bolt to bolt then pulled rope and did first go
elCapitano 4 Apr, 2012 Lead dog
with Keendan
with Keendan
elCapitano 4 Apr, 2012 TR rpt Dogged the onsight lead attempt then sent the top rope redpoint. Then rained off.
with Keendan
Dogged the onsight lead attempt then sent the top rope redpoint. Then rained off.
with Keendan
Keendan 4 Apr, 2012 Lead dog Had a great redpoint session, then got to the top crux, not even pumped. Threw it away after losing focus on the long rest. Then it hailed... Good effort for the clean sequence from Sutty
Had a great redpoint session, then got to the top crux, not even pumped. Threw it away after losing focus on the long rest. Then it hailed... Good effort for the clean sequence from Sutty
givemetea 2 Mar, 2012 TR dog Getting over the overhang is OK but then the holds run out and the balance is tricky to get established on the wall above. Had one go at it but didn't find a sequence that worked. Seemed doable though ... one to go back for.
with Abi Chard
Getting over the overhang is OK but then the holds run out and the balance is tricky to get established on the wall above. Had one go at it but didn't find a sequence that worked. Seemed doable though ... one to go back for.
with Abi Chard
Wil Treasure ?Nov, 2011 Lead
Tom Livingstone 25 Jul, 2011 Lead RP
with Will Grill
with Will Grill
Hidden 11 Jun, 2011 TR dog
Hidden 11 Jun, 2011 TR dog
Hidden 13 May, 2011 TR dnf
Hidden ?May, 2011 Lead O/S
Jonathan Emett 24 Apr, 2011 Lead RP 3rd go. first 7a+
3rd go. first 7a+
Hidden 24 Apr, 2011 2nd
Hidden 9 Apr, 2011 Lead RP
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 12 Feb, 2011 Lead O/S
with Langer
with Langer
Ed Babs 12 Feb, 2011 Lead RP
with Magnus
with Magnus
Hidden 3 Feb, 2011 TR dog
Emma-Louise Anderson 18 Sep, 2010 TR dog Went really well, loved the roof. Tried to lead it afterwards and fell moving to the second bolt over the box.
with Dave Parsons, Chris Bailey
Went really well, loved the roof. Tried to lead it afterwards and fell moving to the second bolt over the box.
with Dave Parsons, Chris Bailey
willbatho 18 Sep, 2010 Lead RP
Spence22 11 Sep, 2010 Lead RP
Hidden 2 Sep, 2010 Lead O/S
ThomasB ?Sep, 2010 Lead RP
Daniel Wicks 10 Sep, 2009 Lead RP Flash, tried the route a year ago but diddn't get past the roof.
with Alice
Flash, tried the route a year ago but diddn't get past the roof.
with Alice
Hidden 29 Aug, 2009 Lead dnf
Justin T 29 Aug, 2009 Lead dog Failed to commit on onsight attempt, one redpoint attempt which got through crux then got cack-handed and grabbed a draw. Confusing at the top as there's a lower lower-off (two big staples in vertical configuration) which isn't (apparently) the one - look left for a final bolt which leads to the actual lower-off past some final interest.
Failed to commit on onsight attempt, one redpoint attempt which got through crux then got cack-handed and grabbed a draw. Confusing at the top as there's a lower lower-off (two big staples in vertical configuration) which isn't (apparently) the one - look left for a final bolt which leads to the actual lower-off past some final interest.
Hidden 15 Aug, 2009 TR dog
Marti999 12 Jul, 2009 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Jun, 2009 TR
hamish2016 3 May, 2009 Lead Did the crux move after the overhang, clipped the bolt then fell off due to pump...gutted!
with matt savage
Did the crux move after the overhang, clipped the bolt then fell off due to pump...gutted!
with matt savage
Dandan ?May, 2009 Lead RP
with Rich
with Rich
keithpeck 4 Apr, 2009 TR dog that will go on lead next time!
that will go on lead next time!
Sandy Holford 4 Apr, 2009 TR dog
w.pettet-smith 24 Aug, 2008 TR worked on top rope. the move above overhang is tricky- ignored thr crappy intermediate holds and reached for goodish slopey crimp with right then flinty jug with lift. no juice left for lead.
with oli tilbury
worked on top rope. the move above overhang is tricky- ignored thr crappy intermediate holds and reached for goodish slopey crimp with right then flinty jug with lift. no juice left for lead.
with oli tilbury
Mark Stevenson 14 Jun, 2008 Lead RP
with Tom Odling
with Tom Odling
Hidden 9 Jun, 2008 Lead dnf
Castleclimber 25 Feb, 2008 Lead RP Not completely sure that I followed the right line at the top. Crux was just after the roof.
with Leeloo
Not completely sure that I followed the right line at the top. Crux was just after the roof.
with Leeloo
nicktr ??, 2008 -
Jarin 4 Aug, 2007 TR RP
with Robin
with Robin
Jonny_86 15 Jun, 2007 Lead RP First of grade
First of grade
Joe Marsh 12 Jun, 2007 Lead dog Minging slimey holds. The pull round the roof is ok, then moving up is hard
with NJSharp
Minging slimey holds. The pull round the roof is ok, then moving up is hard
with NJSharp
Somerset swede basher 10 Jun, 2007 Lead O/S
with Linus Whitmarsh
with Linus Whitmarsh
bigie bob 25 Jul, 2006 Lead O/S
ASchwirtz 25 Jun, 2006 Lead dog 1 fall just after overhang
1 fall just after overhang
Hidden 7 Apr, 2006 Lead RP
Hidden 6 Apr, 2004 Lead RP
Hidden ??, 2000 Lead
Hidden ??, 1995 -
8 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
Votes cast 29
Votes cast 37
Style of ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set