42m, 4 pitches.
Gets the 3 stars with the flake start. Sustained with involving moves on all of the pitches. May make more sense to climb this in 2 longer pitches with a competent second.
1. 9m. The short crack (or, better, the technical flake just to the left - the Flake Start) to small ledge.
2. 15m, Move left and up the crack, hand traverse left into next crack and up to comfy belay ledge.
3. 9m The obvious short overhanging corner crack to ledge, then up easy flakes for a few metres to good ledge atop pedestal (this is where the route joins the top of Sultan).
4. 9m A couple of unprotected slabby moves off belay ledge onto to the summit, walk up this.
Rap station down back of summit into chasm.
1. 9m. The short crack (or, better, the technical flake just to the left - the Flake Start) to small ledge.
2. 15m, Move left and up the crack, hand traverse left into next crack and up to comfy belay ledge.
3. 9m The obvious short overhanging corner crack to ledge, then up easy flakes for a few metres to good ledge atop pedestal (this is where the route joins the top of Sultan).
4. 9m A couple of unprotected slabby moves off belay ledge onto to the summit, walk up this.
Rap station down back of summit into chasm.
John Ewbank, John Worral 09/Dec/1968.
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Route of Interest
Where Angels Fear to Tread
Grade: 17 ***
(Mt Buffalo)