Rockfax Description
A hard climb up the central pillar of the cliff. The original route took a direct line up the lower face but, owing to consistent problems with rockfall, this is not recommended. There is an easier variant on the fifth pitch, which Heinz Mariacher climbed in error when attempting the first free repeat of Messner's 'impossible' climb. Only after talking with Messner afterwards did he realise he had in fact skipped the 'impossible' four metres, and so returned a year later, climbing the original route free and claiming the much-coveted first free repeat.
Climb the first five pitches of Mayerl Corner to the large ledge, then traverse this easily left, passing the arete of the right pillar, to reach the base of the central pillar. The route begins next to a crack with pegs, to the right of a low cave.
1) IV, 50m. Climb cracks direct then move slightly right then back left on a slab. Climb direct to a stance on top of a pillar.
2) IV+, 25m. Climb direct towards a series of roofs then traverse right beneath them to a stance below a niche.
3) VI-, 25m. Continue right, moving up a few metres above a roof then down climbing the other side of this. Then continue the traverse on better holds to a small corner.
4) VIII, 45m. Climb the corner and follow a crack system up and right to reach a horizontal break. Continue direct past some very technical climbing, to overcome Messner's infamous 'impossible' four metres to a well-protected stance.
4a) VII-, 80m. Mariacher Variant. Climb the corner and follow a crack system up and right to reach a horizontal break. Follow the horizontal break right for 15m then climb direct for 4m to a small roof (belay). Traverse back left under this with easier climbing to rejoin the original route.
5) VI, 35m. Climb the flake above direct, move left and continue up cracks trending slightly right to a good ledge.
6) VI, 30m. Climb an overhang direct and follow the slab above to reach a well-pegged corner-crack. Follow this back left to a roof, and move right under this to a stance below a corner-crack.
7) VI-, 50m. Climb the corner-crack leftwards, passing a roof on the right and continue between two bulges to exit more easily onto the summit plateau. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Previously thought to be one of the hardest routes in the dolomites. A very nice route up solid rock. The difficulties are concentrated in the middle section. Highly reccomended to traverse in from the right rather than climbing the first 5 pitches of Very loose (understatement) rock.

Reinhold & G?nther Messner.

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