14 pitches. "The best E3 in Europe" - well maybe.

Yves & Claude Remy

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10 Multi-pitch Routes Worth Travelling For, Parois-de-legende, Euro Alpine Rock

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Haf42 10 Sep, 2018 Show βeta
βeta: Not sure on grading- some airy unprotected moves on the 6a+ pitches with last gear no where nearby, was pretty glad I didn't see it coming so there was no turning back... The 6b is a face climb with good holds and protection so not so bad as the 6a+'s. Final 6a+ pitch has a horrible traverse over to the left which when a little damp could end badly. Led the odd pitches 1,3,5,7,9,11
βeta?
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βeta: Not sure on grading- some airy unprotected moves on the 6a+ pitches with last gear no where nearby, was pretty glad I didn't see it coming so there was no turning back... The 6b is a face climb with good holds and protection so not so bad as the 6a+'s. Final 6a+ pitch has a horrible traverse over to the left which when a little damp could end badly. Led the odd pitches 1,3,5,7,9,11
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
murray 30 Aug AltLd O/S Pretty cruisy granite climbing, great fun! Don't think any of the pitches are harder than E2. We abbed the route, but walking off would have definitely been quicker, which was confirmed when we had to re-lead the bottom 6a+ pitch to retrieve a stuck rope.
with Felicity Eperon, Dan
Pretty cruisy granite climbing, great fun! Don't think any of the pitches are harder than E2. We abbed the route, but walking off would have definitely been quicker, which was confirmed when we had to re-lead the bottom 6a+ pitch to retrieve a stuck rope.
with Felicity Eperon, Dan
sparkass 26 Aug AltLd O/S
pie_eater_pete 5 Aug Lead O/S
metrorat 4 Aug AltLd O/S Calling this an onsight despite backing off our first try at the top of pitch 2 due to the amount of water running down the slabs and in the cracks. Came back the next day to climb it the right conditions to do it justice. When dry this route is absolutely stellar: technical and sustained with the full spectrum of granite techniques required. Gear is not bad but there are a few unavoidable big run-outs here and there. A set of c3s helped us a lot. Led pitches 5-8 and 12-14
with Euan Maharg
Calling this an onsight despite backing off our first try at the top of pitch 2 due to the amount of water running down the slabs and in the cracks. Came back the next day to climb it the right conditions to do it justice. When dry this route is absolutely stellar: technical and sustained with the full spectrum of granite techniques required. Gear is not bad but there are a few unavoidable big run-outs here and there. A set of c3s helped us a lot. Led pitches 5-8 and 12-14
with Euan Maharg
innes 1 Aug Lead O/S World class
with Ruth
World class
with Ruth
HollyWood84 ?Aug -
beni 26 Jul AltLd Nice climbing, but not very varied and abit too long, slab, layback or slab with layback. Imho Swastika is better on Etive slabs.
Nice climbing, but not very varied and abit too long, slab, layback or slab with layback. Imho Swastika is better on Etive slabs.
Annika Marie 26 Jul AltLd O/S
with beni
with beni
Stuart Johnston 29 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S Just superb. Just under 6h with a bit of waiting for the party ahead. Walk out felt looooong. Climbing is insecure, but never hard. Protection is almost always good (aside from a run out slab which is not hard). In fact I think possibly too many bolts. A couple of times I notice that there was great gear right by the bolt. Belay anchors in good condition and equipped for rappel.
with Lara Kesterton
Just superb. Just under 6h with a bit of waiting for the party ahead. Walk out felt looooong. Climbing is insecure, but never hard. Protection is almost always good (aside from a run out slab which is not hard). In fact I think possibly too many bolts. A couple of times I notice that there was great gear right by the bolt. Belay anchors in good condition and equipped for rappel.
with Lara Kesterton
Haf42 10 Sep, 2018 AltLd Not sure on grading- an unprotected moves on the 6a+ pitches with last gear not nearby, was pretty glad I didn't see it coming so there was no turning back... The 6b is a face climb with good holds and protection so not so bad as the 6a+'s. Final 6a+ pitch has a traverse over to the left which was damp could end badly. Led the odd pitches 1,3,5,7,9,11
with Silvan
Not sure on grading- an unprotected moves on the 6a+ pitches with last gear not nearby, was pretty glad I didn't see it coming so there was no turning back... The 6b is a face climb with good holds and protection so not so bad as the 6a+'s. Final 6a+ pitch has a traverse over to the left which was damp could end badly. Led the odd pitches 1,3,5,7,9,11
with Silvan
Hidden 16 Aug, 2018 AltLd dnf
mBob8 16 Aug, 2018 AltLd dnf Awesome birthday on the wall, started late and got thirsty so abseiled down after 6 pitches. Amazing cracks/laybacks well protected on the whole, just the 5C second pitch felt the scariest with spaced (and sometimes old) bolts. Need to go back to finish it!
Awesome birthday on the wall, started late and got thirsty so abseiled down after 6 pitches. Amazing cracks/laybacks well protected on the whole, just the 5C second pitch felt the scariest with spaced (and sometimes old) bolts. Need to go back to finish it!
Helen Gibson 15 Aug, 2018 2nd
with Graham Hoey
with Graham Hoey
Mihkel 5 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S 14p. A superb route. You don’t need much to supplement the bolts - a set of cams up to Camalot 2, with doubles in the smaller sizes, and a set of wires is fine. Led all pitches. 6hrs.
with Phil Coleby
14p. A superb route. You don’t need much to supplement the bolts - a set of cams up to Camalot 2, with doubles in the smaller sizes, and a set of wires is fine. Led all pitches. 6hrs.
with Phil Coleby
Hidden 26 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
GarethSL 19 Jun, 2018 AltLd Woahh! Stunning climbing, wonderfully sustained! The grade 5 slab pitches do nothing for your head game but the dihedrals are just beautiful. The position of the belays is totally bizarre and the descent (incredibly wet) was hideous.
with Steffan, Einar
Woahh! Stunning climbing, wonderfully sustained! The grade 5 slab pitches do nothing for your head game but the dihedrals are just beautiful. The position of the belays is totally bizarre and the descent (incredibly wet) was hideous.
with Steffan, Einar
George Ponsonby 16 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
GeorgeNunn ??, 2018 -
spidey 25 Sep, 2017 AltLd With Rich Dewer, Excellent route. Lead all bar grade 4 pitches
with Rich
With Rich Dewer, Excellent route. Lead all bar grade 4 pitches
with Rich
Hidden 27 Aug, 2017 2nd O/S
Hidden 21 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
nniff 17 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S Stunning day out. A route that has been on my list for 30 years and didn't disappoint. Took a proper UK rack - a full set of wires and cams and used the lot. E2, I suppose, but mostly milder than that
Stunning day out. A route that has been on my list for 30 years and didn't disappoint. Took a proper UK rack - a full set of wires and cams and used the lot. E2, I suppose, but mostly milder than that
Tim Sparrow 17 Aug, 2017 AltLd Best route of my year, by a long way. Nice mix of natural gear and bolts. We now have a Layback Proficiency Certificate.
with nniff
Best route of my year, by a long way. Nice mix of natural gear and bolts. We now have a Layback Proficiency Certificate.
with nniff
Hidden 1 Aug, 2017 AltLd
katy_abra 29 Jul, 2017 AltLd
Little AndyH 19 Jul, 2017 AltLd dnf
with joe.91
with joe.91
joe.91 19 Jul, 2017 AltLd dnf So hot, about 35 in the sun. Had a big lob off the top of pitch 3, then ran away. Didn't feel too bad as 2 other parties bailed!
So hot, about 35 in the sun. Had a big lob off the top of pitch 3, then ran away. Didn't feel too bad as 2 other parties bailed!
Paul Eckton 7 Jul, 2017 AltLd
with Kevster
with Kevster
Kevster 7 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S I thought the leader placed pro sections were probably E1 if climbed independently. Small to mid cams and a smattering of nuts. The more run out sections on bolts again were no more than a slate E1 really. Think gnat attack or looking the tube. Abbed down the line for descent was ok but took time. We did really enjoy the route. What more to say?
I thought the leader placed pro sections were probably E1 if climbed independently. Small to mid cams and a smattering of nuts. The more run out sections on bolts again were no more than a slate E1 really. Think gnat attack or looking the tube. Abbed down the line for descent was ok but took time. We did really enjoy the route. What more to say?
JuneBob 5 Jul, 2017 AltLd Led the easy pitches (up to 5b) First climb since November. Had the wrong shoes for smearing, so even the easy pitches were tricky. 2 falls on second, both foot slips. 7hrs to complete. Wasted about an hour due to going the wrong way on 2 pitches and a rope tangle. Nevertheless, a great day out.
with Odd Rune
Led the easy pitches (up to 5b) First climb since November. Had the wrong shoes for smearing, so even the easy pitches were tricky. 2 falls on second, both foot slips. 7hrs to complete. Wasted about an hour due to going the wrong way on 2 pitches and a rope tangle. Nevertheless, a great day out.
with Odd Rune
bompibjorn 5 Jul, 2017 AltLd dog This is to remind myself never to climb anything above grade 5 in tarantulas again.
with JuneBob
This is to remind myself never to climb anything above grade 5 in tarantulas again.
with JuneBob
DavidEvans ?Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S Got stormed off - completed first 6 pitches and rapped off. Led crux pitch onsight - pleased as it felt quite hard. E3.
with Bernd Stahl
Got stormed off - completed first 6 pitches and rapped off. Led crux pitch onsight - pleased as it felt quite hard. E3.
with Bernd Stahl
Tom Ripley 6 Oct, 2016 AltLd Brilliant
Brilliant
Hidden ?Oct, 2016 AltLd O/S
Fragmod 13 Sep, 2016 AltLd
James Oakes 13 Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S
with Fragmod
with Fragmod
ferdia 23 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
Andy Moles 23 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S Lovely. As others have said, the crux is probably not the crux, some of the laybacks and slabs are quite pokey.
with ferdia
Lovely. As others have said, the crux is probably not the crux, some of the laybacks and slabs are quite pokey.
with ferdia
tomdude 17 Aug, 2016 AltLd Waited about 1.5 hours at base for unexpected rain to dry out. Got to top of pitch 8 to be greeted by thunder, lightning and heavy rain. Never abseiled so fast!
Waited about 1.5 hours at base for unexpected rain to dry out. Got to top of pitch 8 to be greeted by thunder, lightning and heavy rain. Never abseiled so fast!
robertmichaellovell 17 Aug, 2016 AltLd dnf too much water, thunder and lightning for my liking (at the top of pitch 8)
with tomdude
too much water, thunder and lightning for my liking (at the top of pitch 8)
with tomdude
Hidden ?Aug, 2016 Lead
Nemmie ?Aug, 2016 AltLd
Chris_barr 28 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S Incredible. 7th day on at the end of an amazing week. Took about 7 hours P2, 4 - 13
with Jo
Incredible. 7th day on at the end of an amazing week. Took about 7 hours P2, 4 - 13
with Jo
richiebongo 9 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S One of the best routes of my life.
with Rameau
One of the best routes of my life.
with Rameau
Hidden 1 Jul, 2016 AltLd
Alex@home 1 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S What Tony said. Great climbing up to there
with TonyM
What Tony said. Great climbing up to there
with TonyM
tom.m ??, 2016 -
with Tom Coney
with Tom Coney
Andy Lagan 1 Nov, 2015 AltLd O/S
dicky79 9 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S
with Pete
with Pete
Hidden 7 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S
Hidden 7 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S
Hidden 4 Sep, 2015 AltLd
smokeyj 21 Aug, 2015 AltLd P 1,3,5,7,9,11,13 Grabbed a quickdraw 3 times
P 1,3,5,7,9,11,13 Grabbed a quickdraw 3 times
Pete Scott 21 Aug, 2015 AltLd dog
PTatts 3 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S Felt about E2.
with Oli
Felt about E2.
with Oli
Hidden 3 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S
Hidden 3 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S
soph 2 Aug, 2015 AltLd
with Gary Smith, Blair Fyffe
with Gary Smith, Blair Fyffe
davebrox 18 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
with Luke
with Luke
LucaC 14 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S Lead pitches 3,5,7-14. Thought the top 6a pitch, and some of the 5c slabs were harder/bolder than the 6b face climb breaking out from the crack corner. The plasir guide is wrong only recommending friends 1-3, many small cams required!
with Tom
Lead pitches 3,5,7-14. Thought the top 6a pitch, and some of the 5c slabs were harder/bolder than the 6b face climb breaking out from the crack corner. The plasir guide is wrong only recommending friends 1-3, many small cams required!
with Tom
Hidden 11 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S
George Reeder ?Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S Exceptional climb, maybe not E3, but great climbing nonetheless.
Exceptional climb, maybe not E3, but great climbing nonetheless.
chris_B 27 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S
with louby
with louby
GeorgeNunn ?Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S
with George Reeder
with George Reeder
Hidden 25 Jul, 2014 AltLd
AJM 17 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S Excellent route. Led all the pitches. I'm sure both 6a+ pitches are harder than the "6b" pitch crossing the wall of the corner.
with AllyBee
Excellent route. Led all the pitches. I'm sure both 6a+ pitches are harder than the "6b" pitch crossing the wall of the corner.
with AllyBee
Neil ??, 2014 Lead O/S
Sir Pilade 16 Sep, 2013 AltLd
dan gibson 2 Sep, 2013 Lead O/S
with andrew porter
with andrew porter
Hidden 22 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S
colesy ?Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S One of the best climbs I've ever done superb quality. Used an 80m rope to link pitches and got to the top in under 3 hours, great day totally spent at the end of it.
with Ged Desforges
One of the best climbs I've ever done superb quality. Used an 80m rope to link pitches and got to the top in under 3 hours, great day totally spent at the end of it.
with Ged Desforges
colesy ?Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S One of the best climbs I've ever done superb quality. Used an 80m rope to link pitches and got to the top in under 3 hours, great day totally spent at the end of it.
with Ged Desforges
One of the best climbs I've ever done superb quality. Used an 80m rope to link pitches and got to the top in under 3 hours, great day totally spent at the end of it.
with Ged Desforges
Chad123 30 Jul, 2013 AltLd A great climb though not quite in the Vestpillaren/Luna Nascente/Salbit West Ridge category. Probably one of the easiest routes of the trip which made it funnier when I slipped off the first 4b moves and returned to the ground quickly. Also went off route onto something hard near the top and took a good lob. If you follow the actual line it's about E1, though you might find the cruxes being the E1 4c slab pitches (5c+ and 5b+) rather than the E1 5c (6a+ and 6b) pitches. You'll be good at laybacking by the top too and leave plenty of time and daylight for the descent, it goes on a bit! Great end to a great week and stunning alpine views all day....
with sgl
A great climb though not quite in the Vestpillaren/Luna Nascente/Salbit West Ridge category. Probably one of the easiest routes of the trip which made it funnier when I slipped off the first 4b moves and returned to the ground quickly. Also went off route onto something hard near the top and took a good lob. If you follow the actual line it's about E1, though you might find the cruxes being the E1 4c slab pitches (5c+ and 5b+) rather than the E1 5c (6a+ and 6b) pitches. You'll be good at laybacking by the top too and leave plenty of time and daylight for the descent, it goes on a bit! Great end to a great week and stunning alpine views all day....
with sgl
sgl 30 Jul, 2013 AltLd Chad led hard pitches
with chad
Chad led hard pitches
with chad
edek_w 22 Aug, 2012 -
with Blazej
with Blazej
Hidden 15 Aug, 2012 AltLd
Hidden 27 Jun, 2012 AltLd
Hidden ?Jun, 2012 AltLd
charles-green ??, 2012 AltLd O/S
jfmchivall 26 Aug, 2011 Lead dnf Went wrong way at end of P6, climbed 6c groove for 15 metres. Ab back to P7 belay, went the right way. Heavy rain started at end of P7! Must go back to finish.
with Ole Kemi
Went wrong way at end of P6, climbed 6c groove for 15 metres. Ab back to P7 belay, went the right way. Heavy rain started at end of P7! Must go back to finish.
with Ole Kemi
olekemi 26 Aug, 2011 AltLd Aborted after the crux due to rain.
with John C
Aborted after the crux due to rain.
with John C
JMarkW 12 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S Fanstastic day
Fanstastic day
Hidden 11 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S
noskki 28 Jun, 2011 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??, 2011 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2011 Lead O/S
drew8connelly ??, 2011 -
Mattyk 19 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S Really pleased as this was the route i came to do. Quality granite and an afternoon ascent after walking in after the rain gave in. Learnt that somebody had fallen off earlier in day and hurt themselves quite badly - helicoptered out. glad we didn't know. Was a bit wet but not too bad. Some waulity pitches. E1?
with ali k
Really pleased as this was the route i came to do. Quality granite and an afternoon ascent after walking in after the rain gave in. Learnt that somebody had fallen off earlier in day and hurt themselves quite badly - helicoptered out. glad we didn't know. Was a bit wet but not too bad. Some waulity pitches. E1?
with ali k
Hidden 19 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S
richgac 7 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S Lead it all. Immaculate rock. Was first in line on a day that started out wet and had a few teams behind us.
with Charlie
Lead it all. Immaculate rock. Was first in line on a day that started out wet and had a few teams behind us.
with Charlie
Hidden 31 Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S
Ben Briggs ?Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Toby
with Toby
Tobias at Home ??, 2010 -
Tobias at Home ??, 2010 AltLd dog
rippinlines ?Jul, 2009 Lead dog
Hidden ??, 2009 2nd
Dave Searle ?Jul, 2008 Lead best granite climb ive done
with jim
best granite climb ive done
with jim
mike mo ??, 2008 Lead
Kopo ??, 2008 -
with Olli
with Olli
Si dH 27 Jul, 2006 AltLd O/S Probably the best rock route I have ever done, in just 4.5 hours! Absolutely superb, a shame it isn't in the UK. It is actually only 6a+ (6a obl), not 6b, but is really more like E1/2 - the bolts are only every 15m or so and you need a trad rack.
with Kane Chandler
Probably the best rock route I have ever done, in just 4.5 hours! Absolutely superb, a shame it isn't in the UK. It is actually only 6a+ (6a obl), not 6b, but is really more like E1/2 - the bolts are only every 15m or so and you need a trad rack.
with Kane Chandler
Hidden ?Aug, 2005 AltLd
Bruce Kerr 28 Jul, 2005 AltLd
with Trevor Carpenter
with Trevor Carpenter
tom.e ?Aug, 2004 AltLd dnf
with Charlie Everett
with Charlie Everett
Mike_Hayes ?Aug, 2004 - Awesome
with James Graham
Awesome
with James Graham
alpinist63 3 Sep, 2003 Lead O/S
ian bryant ?Aug, 2003 AltLd O/S
with rod
with rod
andy_pemberton ?Jul, 2003 Lead Awesome climb. It keeps on coming.
with Katharine Pemberton
Awesome climb. It keeps on coming.
with Katharine Pemberton
Hidden ??, 2003 Lead O/S
gergosantha ?Jul, 1999 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Jun, 1999 AltLd
John H Bull (tcfka Bullybones) ?Jul, 1998 -
tjekel ??, 1996 -
Rob Davies 3 Aug, 1995 2nd A bit damp on P2 & P3. Long day - walk in starting before 7 am, started climbing at 8:45 am, got down at 5 pm, walked out
with Pete Hemmings
A bit damp on P2 & P3. Long day - walk in starting before 7 am, started climbing at 8:45 am, got down at 5 pm, walked out
with Pete Hemmings
Hidden 24 Jun, 1994 Lead
Hidden ?Jul, 1991 -
SB_NWUK_99 ??, 1990 AltLd O/S It is a great area to climb in.
It is a great area to climb in.
jcw ??, 1990 - An amusing and somewhat competitive fast ascent staying ahead of Simon Richardson and Guy Mullermamn
with Dore Green
An amusing and somewhat competitive fast ascent staying ahead of Simon Richardson and Guy Mullermamn
with Dore Green
Hidden ??, 1986 AltLd
Neil McA 7 Aug, 1984 AltLd O/S Fantastic route, even for someone who does not like slab climbing! Interesting that is now called 'The best E3 in Europe' as we climbed it as an E1 in '84 in EB's. Lets settle on E2.
with Jim Dockery
Fantastic route, even for someone who does not like slab climbing! Interesting that is now called 'The best E3 in Europe' as we climbed it as an E1 in '84 in EB's. Lets settle on E2.
with Jim Dockery
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Voting
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 18
Votes cast 20
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Dogged
Not Set