UKC

40m. No description has been contributed for this climb.

FA. Ken Palmer 2009.

Ticklists

Devon DWS progression , Deep Water

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User Date Notes
remus 4 Aug Show βeta
βeta: I found it kinda hard to work out where this was meant to go based on existing descriptions, so here\'s a bit of a spraydown in the hopes it\'ll make it a bit easier to get on. It\'s an amazine route. Per the guide, traving in via the rope and the cauldron is the easiest approach, this\'ll land you in a comfy cave with enough space for two or three people. From here you take a rising leftward line on undercuts to get to a massive undercut flake before the roof really steepens up. Kneebar here where you can sit and admire the wild moves you\'re about to do. Through the roof looks outrageous but isn\'t actually too hard but is pretty 3D and easy to get wrong handed. You\'re aiming up and rightwards into the pod which makes up the roof of the cave. In the pod there\'s various decent rests, the best is just before you start the downclimb. From the pod you do a little downclimb which takes you out and round onto the face. It starts kicking in here so get psyched. You pull round from the bottom of the downclimb into good understcuts, then reach over with your right to a surprisingly good pocket. From there you do a long move left into the base of the crack (surprisingly good, apparently) and then a few more tricky moves in the crack to victory.
Show beta
βeta: I found it kinda hard to work out where this was meant to go based on existing descriptions, so here's a bit of a spraydown in the hopes it'll make it a bit easier to get on. It's an amazine route. Per the guide, traving in via the rope and the cauldron is the easiest approach, this'll land you in a comfy cave with enough space for two or three people. From here you take a rising leftward line on undercuts to get to a massive undercut flake before the roof really steepens up. Kneebar here where you can sit and admire the wild moves you're about to do. Through the roof looks outrageous but isn't actually too hard but is pretty 3D and easy to get wrong handed. You're aiming up and rightwards into the pod which makes up the roof of the cave. In the pod there's various decent rests, the best is just before you start the downclimb. From the pod you do a little downclimb which takes you out and round onto the face. It starts kicking in here so get psyched. You pull round from the bottom of the downclimb into good understcuts, then reach over with your right to a surprisingly good pocket. From there you do a long move left into the base of the crack (surprisingly good, apparently) and then a few more tricky moves in the crack to victory.

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Guidebooks for Berry Head - The Old Redoubt

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Voting
High 8a
Mid 8a
Low 8a
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
Votes cast 3
High S1
Mid S1
Low S1
High S0
Mid S0
Low S0
Votes cast 2
Style of Ascent
DWS
Soloed
Not Set
DNF
Ground Up
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Threadbare

Grade: 7c+ ***
(Torbryan Quarry)

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