UKC

100m, 4 pitches.

SMC Description
90m. A sustained but well protected test piece. The highlight is the unique torquing crack right of Genie main corner; it is strenuous to climb and even more strenuous to place the excellent protection. Descent is by a 50m, then a 40m abseil.
1) 25m. As for The Genie; gain the lower and left of two ramp-lines and follow this over a bulge and continue left.
2) 25m. As for The Genie; following two corners which curve up leftwards to the stance below the main corner. Make a thin move right to gain a ledge at the base of a right-slanting crack.
3) 20m. Follow the crack to a ledge on the left.
4) 20m. Go up a continuation crack to an overlap. Above, is a difficult right-slanting crack which leads to an easier left-slanting one and a tricky move to reach easier ground and the abseil point. © SMC

UKC Logbook Description
The crack is strenuous and it is even more strenuous to place the excellent protection that it provides! Finish up the summer line adding another hard pitch of climbing. Harder than White Magic.

Ticklists: Cairngorm Winter Climbs.


ClimberDateStyle
Adam Booth 12/Feb AltLd O/S

Absolutely amazing crack pitch! One of the best.

Ramon Marin 12/Feb Lead

Incredible main pitch, Adam let me have it as he had the main pitch on travesty last week.

Jamie Skelton 10/Jan AltLd O/S
with Jack Morris
Marek Raganowicz 10/Mar/16 Lead
with Magda
petralina 04/Aug/15 AltLd

Did lead the easy pitch at the bottom.

with Shane
Brian Pollock 24/Jan/15 AltLd O/S

Excellent sustained route and eats up gear. More bulldogs would help in the crack. Led 2, 3 & 4. Bit of faffing on the last pitch trying to find the "easy left trending crack" to exit.

with Craig
Timothy Miller 24/Jan/15 AltLd O/S
KKilroy 01/Mar/14 2nd O/S
with McCune
Hidden ??/2014 -
Harry Holmes 07/Dec/13 AltLd O/S
with Pete Holder
Peter Holder 07/Dec/13 AltLd
Stuart the postie 07/Dec/13 AltLd
with Andy Clark
andyinglis 10/Nov/13 AltLd O/S

Good fun route, tricky footwork.

Neil Adams 10/Nov/13 AltLd O/S

Surprisingly tricky top pitch! Fair for VII,7 but very thin for feet and required some excavation to find the decent hooks & torques

el cholo 06/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Brilliant route, super safe. I did it in two long pitches joining 1-2 and 3-4, continuing then to the top of Aladdin's buttress and down Aladdin's couloir.

with Andy Laing
Hidden ??/2011 -
Franco Cookson 20/Feb/10 Lead O/S

led all 4 pitches. First Scottish Lead.

MouseHunter ??/2010 -
akhughes ??/2010 AltLd
rclarke 07/Dec/09 AltLd
with THOM SIMMONS, DJayB
Hidden 07/Dec/09 AltLd dog
DJayB 07/Dec/09 AltLd

Best winter day yet! Top pitch by far the hardest pitch. The crack was amazing, and easier than expected! And to add to the excitement took my first winter whipper, choking myself with my bandolier!!

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