UKC Logbook - 'Too farr for the bear'

15m. A remorselessly strenuous route, perhaps the best here. A vertical crack line with a porthole near its base and finishing at a chain lies 3m left of the step. Climb the crack past twin peg runners and the overlap, with a move right and back left near the top. Graded for an onsight lead.

Andy Cunningham, Andy Nisbet 1985.

Ticklists

Highland Outcrops South *** , Ultimate Scottish Trad Ticklist E1 to E5

Feedback Always Hide βeta

User	Date		Notes
Andy Moles	12 Aug	Show βeta βeta: Take at least two small silver Dragon/Camalot size cams. It's also possible to place three good blue wallnut 5s, though other options are available. As back-up/replacement for the remaining peg, there are a couple of weird shallow big blue cam placements just to the right, a fiddly micro-wire up right in a hold used on Farrter, plus possibly a very small micro-cam or slider just left of that. It's a committing couple of moves before you can get good gear above.
Show beta βeta: Take at least two small silver Dragon/Camalot size cams. It's also possible to place three good blue wallnut 5s, though other options are available. As back-up/replacement for the remaining peg, there are a couple of weird shallow big blue cam placements just to the right, a fiddly micro-wire up right in a hold used on Farrter, plus possibly a very small micro-cam or slider just left of that. It's a committing couple of moves before you can get good gear above.
Andy Moles	12 Aug	Show βeta βeta: There is now only one peg. See gear beta in my other comment for some back-up suggestions.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: There is now only one peg. See gear beta in my other comment for some back-up suggestions.
John Aisthorpe	16 Sep, 2020	Show βeta βeta: Yes there is gear but its fiddly to place well and not that obvious. On closer inspection, the left side of the cam slot before the crux is actually detached and the wire below is not overly inspiring. Good route but I wouldn't say its well protected.
Show beta βeta: Yes there is gear but its fiddly to place well and not that obvious. On closer inspection, the left side of the cam slot before the crux is actually detached and the wire below is not overly inspiring. Good route but I wouldn't say its well protected.