50m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Three fine pitches right of Warlord. Technical and sustained with small wires essential. Start 20m right of Oceanid at two converging cracks. The finish to the top pitch needs care.
1) 5a, 22m. Climb halfway up the right-hand crack, then step left into a scoop. Ascend a short corner to a slab, then traverse along until is possible to reach the higher slab (peg). Continue left to the belay on Oceanid. Friable rock.
2) 5c, 10m. Trend right to the roof (large cam) then move over this. Undercut right along the lip then move up to belay (peg) below a short corner in the next roof.
3) 6a, 20m. Gain a corner and pull over the roof onto a narrow ledge (peg). Climb the wall just right (bold) to a rest in a flake-crack, then tackle the steep white wall on the left. © Rockfax

FA. Martin Crocker, Jim Robertson 21/Aug/1983

Ticklists

Extreme Rock, Littlejohn South West Climbs, Ultimate E4 ticklist

Feedback

UserDateNotes
matt perks 22 Nov, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: This description is not accurate. On the first pitch it's not clear what is meant by the converging cracks, though the scoop, and moves left onto the slab, are clear enough. This is all on very friable rock. On reaching the slab just traverse horizontally left to reach the thread belay on Oceanid. The next pitch moves up to the roof and crosses it directly above the belay (no sloping ledge) before undercutting right as described. The third pitch pulls over the roof (totally wild) onto the narrow ledge and then climbs the wall more or less as described, however, the moves to leave the narrow ledge are hard and there is no decent gear (there are wires in a flake on the left but this is detached) though there is good gear again higher up. I'm glad I was seconding this one.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This description is not accurate. On the first pitch it's not clear what is meant by the converging cracks, though the scoop, and moves left onto the slab, are clear enough. This is all on very friable rock. On reaching the slab just traverse horizontally left to reach the thread belay on Oceanid. The next pitch moves up to the roof and crosses it directly above the belay (no sloping ledge) before undercutting right as described. The third pitch pulls over the roof (totally wild) onto the narrow ledge and then climbs the wall more or less as described, however, the moves to leave the narrow ledge are hard and there is no decent gear (there are wires in a flake on the left but this is detached) though there is good gear again higher up. I'm glad I was seconding this one.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Tom Livingstone 24 Oct, 2018 AltLd O/S Led P2 and P3, in one.
with Marti Hallet
Led P2 and P3, in one.
with Marti Hallet
Marti999 24 Oct, 2018 AltLd O/S Both roof are reachy. Luckily had a rope gun to get me up the top pitches.
with Tom Livingstone
Both roof are reachy. Luckily had a rope gun to get me up the top pitches.
with Tom Livingstone
JendeHoxar 15 Oct, 2017 AltLd
with Flavio
with Flavio
Flavio 15 Oct, 2017 AltLd O/S Thought top pitches had better climbing than Warlord p2, I didn't trust that thin peg but it helped knowing that Richard took a lob on it. Better get on it soon before the top (and bottom) ends in the sea!
Thought top pitches had better climbing than Warlord p2, I didn't trust that thin peg but it helped knowing that Richard took a lob on it. Better get on it soon before the top (and bottom) ends in the sea!
Richard Kendrick 14 Oct, 2017 AltLd dog
with Misha
with Misha
Misha 14 Oct, 2017 AltLd O/S Good route with some great moves. First a heel hook to get over the roof, then a Tarzan style swing round the second roof (pretty much kept the feet on but still wild, not too hard though). The real crux in on the headwall after the peg. Only led P1 - the start is indistinct and a bit crumbly, nice delicate traverse to finish though. Richard linked P2 and 3 which is logical. Very hot!
Good route with some great moves. First a heel hook to get over the roof, then a Tarzan style swing round the second roof (pretty much kept the feet on but still wild, not too hard though). The real crux in on the headwall after the peg. Only led P1 - the start is indistinct and a bit crumbly, nice delicate traverse to finish though. Richard linked P2 and 3 which is logical. Very hot!
Ramon Marin 22 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S Dan took the top crux pitch
with Dan Gibson
Dan took the top crux pitch
with Dan Gibson
dan gibson 22 Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S
Jack Geldard ?Sep, 2016 AltLd
La Mont 27 Feb, 2016 2nd lead first pitch, Ellis linked 2nd and 3rd in-one. near slip at the start due large foot hold breaking, left hanging on arms.
with Ellis
lead first pitch, Ellis linked 2nd and 3rd in-one. near slip at the start due large foot hold breaking, left hanging on arms.
with Ellis
Ellis Bird ?Feb, 2016 Lead O/S
eel ??, 2016 2nd O/S
with Caff, Jack
with Caff, Jack
WB 31 Oct, 2014 AltLd O/S
with Andy M
with Andy M
AlexD 25 Oct, 2014 2nd dog Reachy through the two rooves and on top wall. Quality though!
with Ed Babs
Reachy through the two rooves and on top wall. Quality though!
with Ed Babs
Ed Babs 25 Oct, 2014 Lead O/S Great. First pitch much more enjoyable than expected. The second and third pitches are excellent. Ran them together as suggested below. Tried to go straight up the head wall for a while before I remembered the guidebook description. Doh.
with AlexD
Great. First pitch much more enjoyable than expected. The second and third pitches are excellent. Ran them together as suggested below. Tried to go straight up the head wall for a while before I remembered the guidebook description. Doh.
with AlexD
ianto ??, 2013 -
nickdonohue ?Sep, 2012 2nd Quite nervy to second due to long traverse on 1st pitch, also a traversey bit on the 2nd pitch.
with Frank ?, Ian Bryant
Quite nervy to second due to long traverse on 1st pitch, also a traversey bit on the 2nd pitch.
with Frank ?, Ian Bryant
Hidden 22 Jan, 2012 2nd dog
jacobjlloyd 22 Jan, 2012 Lead β Seconded this in 2009, as my first proper trad experience. Felt great to get back on it for the lead! Can't claim the onsight, but it wasn't much help as i misremembered where i was meant to go and ended up on the top face for two hours trying to force a direct line through hard ground above a dodgy peg and a nest of shallow microwires. Bumped the loose block off and all, knocked it with my foot! What a punter. Still a big loose flake above the second roof to watch out for. Wont hit the belay if it comes off, and you dont need to go near it, but dont try to put gear behind it or you'll likely get hurt. When I gave up with my mis-remembered beta and followed the natural line, it gave brilliant climbing that didn't disappoint! A genuinely very worthwhile route. Classic Swanage esoterica at the start and finish, a glorious sequence through the upper roof, and really good climbing on the top face with just enough gear uncertainty to keep you focussed. No point doing this in three pitches. Running the top two pitches together makes more sense, safer for the second (not under any loose rock) and there are no issues with rope drag to worry about.
with Jenni
Seconded this in 2009, as my first proper trad experience. Felt great to get back on it for the lead! Can't claim the onsight, but it wasn't much help as i misremembered where i was meant to go and ended up on the top face for two hours trying to force a direct line through hard ground above a dodgy peg and a nest of shallow microwires. Bumped the loose block off and all, knocked it with my foot! What a punter. Still a big loose flake above the second roof to watch out for. Wont hit the belay if it comes off, and you dont need to go near it, but dont try to put gear behind it or you'll likely get hurt. When I gave up with my mis-remembered beta and followed the natural line, it gave brilliant climbing that didn't disappoint! A genuinely very worthwhile route. Classic Swanage esoterica at the start and finish, a glorious sequence through the upper roof, and really good climbing on the top face with just enough gear uncertainty to keep you focussed. No point doing this in three pitches. Running the top two pitches together makes more sense, safer for the second (not under any loose rock) and there are no issues with rope drag to worry about.
with Jenni
jacobjlloyd 28 Feb, 2009 2nd dog
with feilx
with feilx
feilx 28 Feb, 2009 Lead O/S
Hidden 28 Sep, 2008 Lead
Hidden ??, 2006 -
ellis ?Sep, 2000 AltLd O/S
with Pete Collins
with Pete Collins
Tim M ??, 2000 2nd
The Jazz Butcher ??, 1998 Lead O/S
with Matt King
with Matt King
Hidden 12 Jun, 1995 Lead O/S
keefe ??, 1995 -
Glenn Sutcliffe ??, 1995 -
with keefe
with keefe
Robmwatt ??, 1994 -
keefe ??, 1990 -
William Robertson ??, 1987 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 9
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 10
Votes cast 9
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Not Set