UKC Logbook - 'Vikings'

50m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Technical and sustained with small wires essential. Start 20m right of Oceanid at two converging cracks.
1) 5a, 22m. Climb halfway up the right-hand crack, then step left into a scoop. Ascend a short corner to a slab, then traverse along until is possible to reach the higher slab (peg). Continue left to the belay on Oceanid. Friable rock.
2) 5c, 10m. Trend right to the roof (large cam). Move over and undercut right along the lip then move up to belay (peg) below a short corner in the next roof.
3) 6a, 20m. Gain a corner and pull over the roof onto a narrow ledge (peg). Climb the wall just right (bold) to a rest in a flake crack, then tackle the steep white wall on the left. © Rockfax

FA. Martin Crocker, Jim Robertson 21/Aug/1983.

Ticklists

Extreme Rock , Littlejohn South West Climbs , Ultimate E4 ticklist

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User	Date		Notes
Stanners	19 Aug, 2024	Show βeta βeta: A big ask but safest and probably most satisfying in one monster pitch. Rope drag was alright with 120's and 240's put to good use - just got to fight the weight of the ropes a bit! Described 3rd pitch belay would be dangerous I think due to hollow flake and poor peg, with uninspiring RP's protecting the roof move. Despite big fall potential this bit felt alright in one big push due to the air to fall into and utilising some bomber gear out right in the roof (240 extension). Esoteric extremeness but I did enjoy in some sadistic sense.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: A big ask but safest and probably most satisfying in one monster pitch. Rope drag was alright with 120's and 240's put to good use - just got to fight the weight of the ropes a bit! Described 3rd pitch belay would be dangerous I think due to hollow flake and poor peg, with uninspiring RP's protecting the roof move. Despite big fall potential this bit felt alright in one big push due to the air to fall into and utilising some bomber gear out right in the roof (240 extension). Esoteric extremeness but I did enjoy in some sadistic sense.
matt perks	22 Nov, 2004	Show βeta βeta: This description is not accurate. On the first pitch it's not clear what is meant by the converging cracks, though the scoop, and moves left onto the slab, are clear enough. This is all on very friable rock. On reaching the slab just traverse horizontally left to reach the thread belay on Oceanid. The next pitch moves up to the roof and crosses it directly above the belay (no sloping ledge) before undercutting right as described. The third pitch pulls over the roof (totally wild) onto the narrow ledge and then climbs the wall more or less as described, however, the moves to leave the narrow ledge are hard and there is no decent gear (there are wires in a flake on the left but this is detached) though there is good gear again higher up. I'm glad I was seconding this one.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: This description is not accurate. On the first pitch it's not clear what is meant by the converging cracks, though the scoop, and moves left onto the slab, are clear enough. This is all on very friable rock. On reaching the slab just traverse horizontally left to reach the thread belay on Oceanid. The next pitch moves up to the roof and crosses it directly above the belay (no sloping ledge) before undercutting right as described. The third pitch pulls over the roof (totally wild) onto the narrow ledge and then climbs the wall more or less as described, however, the moves to leave the narrow ledge are hard and there is no decent gear (there are wires in a flake on the left but this is detached) though there is good gear again higher up. I'm glad I was seconding this one.