Rockfax Description
A nice little route on good rock and with a relatively solid finish. Climb up the left side of the black overhang and continue up the vertical, cracked wall with interest to finish on a good ledge on the right. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Finklaire, B.Etheridge 1976

Ticklists: Swanage A-Z, Orange Spot Swanage, SW Climbs - Swanage, SPA Training Minimum Requirement.

Bob M 16/Apr 2nd
Tristan.Stricker 14/Apr Lead O/S

Tricky start. Disgusting chossfest at top.

Conor Nally 14/Apr Lead
with Rosh
sam_craddock 09/Apr Lead
Owen Davies 09/Apr 2nd O/S
steuk92 08/Apr 2nd

First VS, found the bouldery start difficult

mikehenesy 08/Apr Lead rpt

Coxies first VS, the boy done well. Bouldery start demo'd by the c@g before us, was easier than last time I did it. It's not that hard but the middle of this still freaks me out, probably not helped by the previous party's tales of swanage mutilation and death, like going jumping with Mark Davis. Shitty belay hasn't got any better.

with Coxie
Francois R 30/Oct/16 2nd
with Jason
mikehenesy 22/Oct/16 Lead
with Willy
Buccaneerbilly 22/Oct/16 2nd

Dave blew out trying to do the boulder start, Mike then lead it. Whilst Mike was on the route Dave and I sussed the far easier start just to the right of the fault line.

Pete Scott 09/Oct/16 Lead O/S
helkay 11/Sep/16 Lead O/S

Pleasant and easy, although the first move makes it feel impressive.

Pete_Frost 27/Aug/16 Lead rpt

Very wet at the base and hard to protect lower down in the ragged cracks.

with Blake
Hidden 13/Aug/16 2nd β
Hidden 13/Aug/16 Lead β
ssutton 13/Aug/16 Lead
with Andrew
cdpuk 07/Aug/16 2nd O/S
twodada 07/Aug/16 Lead

Finished off the day, nice route, but getting off the ground took some figering out.

with Chris P
Norman_P_W 06/Aug/16 Lead
richardbyrom 30/Jul/16 2nd O/S
with Simon Middleton
el_monty 29/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Jerome
Andrew Sloan 21/Jul/16 2nd O/S

Good value for VS. Pete finished directly up the loose grassy slope rather than heading right......about E3,4a!

with pete
roryferris 03/Jul/16 2nd
with Sam4242
Sam4242 03/Jul/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/May/16 Lead O/S
Headjamm 07/May/16 -
with Geoffers
Geoffers 07/May/16 Lead rpt
with Tim
Jus 30/Apr/16 Lead O/S
mikehenesy 16/Apr/16 2nd rpt

First VS lead for Willy and second outdoor climb from James, sterling display by both of them. Bloody hell I don't remember it being this hard! Thinking about it first swanage outing this year and yeah fair enough.

with Willy, James Mason
Buccaneerbilly 16/Apr/16 Lead

My first ever VS lead and James's second ever trad route, the boy did well on this one as well apart from trying to give me duff directions at the finish!

with James Mason, Michael Henesy
mjeffery 13/Apr/16 2nd O/S
with Rob
LJKing 25/Mar/16 2nd rpt
with Steve Melvin
Bob M 23/Mar/16 2nd
with Harry Cripps
Hidden ??/2016 Lead O/S
DampRice 28/Aug/15 2nd
Robin Woodward 21/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Enjoyed this until the final wide crack which I spent a while trying to work a way around before giving in and thrutching up.

mattprince 21/Aug/15 2nd O/S
with Jon Wilson
Jenny Dart 21/Aug/15 2nd
with Robin
bryan61 02/Aug/15 2nd O/S
with m meaney
Geoffers 29/Jul/15 Lead rpt
with Tim
Steve_T_Taylor 17/Jul/15 2nd O/S
jungle 11/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Paul Mcarthy
jon_gill1 04/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Bob M 30/Jun/15 2nd
with Ket
Hidden 27/Jun/15 Lead O/S
MontyH 20/Jun/15 TR
with Brian and Paul, Paul Milton
Hidden 11/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Monkey_Alan 07/Jun/15 2nd
with Clare Johnson, DAJ Johnson
Paula Ryan ?/Jun/15 2nd
Hidden ?/Jun/15 Lead
Hidden 15/Apr/15 Lead rpt
mishabruml 15/Apr/15 2nd O/S

Did the bouldery start up the black stuff, then its a steep but juggy haul to the top. Nice fun route. Watch the chossy top

with David Gainor
Nigel Coe 01/Feb/15 Lead

Cold! Feeling came back into my fingers as I reached the top.

Julian Prieto 30/Nov/14 Lead rpt
Monkey_Alan 30/Nov/14 2nd rpt
mike lawrence? 02/Oct/14 Lead
with Metal
Mike Turner 27/Sep/14 2nd O/S
jasonpm 27/Sep/14 Lead
with Simon Hockin
Different Steve 27/Sep/14 Lead
Cheese Monkey 26/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Really good!

with Ian M
Ian Miller 26/Sep/14 2nd O/S
hotfeet 21/Sep/14 2nd
joeallen28 12/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Sam4242
LaMentalist 05/Sep/14 AltLd dog
with Ed
Bob M 31/Jul/14 Lead
Buccaneerbilly 24/Jul/14 2nd

How can a man with so much gear always forget to bring something with him? At least he remembered his harnes, belay device and helmet, a nut key might have been a usefull addition to his rack on this occasion. I have bought my own one now.

mikehenesy 24/Jul/14 Lead β
with Willy
Sophie Nunn 17/Jul/14 2nd rpt
Julian Prieto 17/Jul/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 16/Jul/14 Lead
sonic46 11/Jul/14 Lead O/S

A great route - good holds, loads of opportunities to rest and great gear.

with Lee Mercer
Monkey_Alan 05/Jul/14 Lead rpt
with James Bridger
mikehenesy 22/Jun/14 2nd O/S

Followed Hannah up after Lee lead. Nice route, good gear too. Did the bouldery start as opposed to stepping off the boulder.

with Lee
Dave Thompson 03/Jun/14 2nd
with Mark Lee
Pero 31/May/14 2nd
Bryan M 30/May/14 -
Hidden 18/May/14 2nd rpt
Headjamm 17/May/14 2nd
with Geoffers
Geoffers 17/May/14 Lead rpt
with Lauren
clipskipper 04/May/14 Lead β

Quality route for the grade. Good holds, good gear and great setting. Belay is rubbish!

with Davey Boy
Bry 04/May/14 Lead O/S
with Caroline Ashman
brian watson 03/May/14 Lead rpt
with Pete Frost
Luxulyan 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Dan Browne
annak 13/Apr/14 2nd O/S
Big Lee 13/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Another Good route. Steep and sustained but with loads of gear and big holds. Small protruding loose block at mid-height. My partner tried to kick it off on second but it is more attached than it looks.

Monkey_Alan 25/Jan/14 Lead rpt
CurlyStevo 11/Jan/14 Lead

nice route, good line and quite sustained climbing

with clipskipper
kenneM 05/Oct/13 2nd
Hidden 29/Sep/13 Lead
Martin Bagshaw 22/Sep/13 2nd O/S

My leader found a rock to throw off. Nice climbing though the belay is a bit fo a ways back

ipegg 22/Sep/13 Lead
mr random 21/Sep/13 -

Pulled off a large block, fortunately my second had an overhang to hide under. Had to be creative with the belay as the rock was very loose.

with Teri chan
mr random 21/Sep/13 -

Pulled off a large block, fortunately my second had an overhang to hide under. Had to be creative with the belay as the rock was very loose.

with Teri chan
Hidden 21/Sep/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 11/Sep/13 Lead rpt
Hidden 08/Sep/13 Lead O/S
francois 08/Sep/13 2nd
with Chawn
Hidden 05/Sep/13 2nd rpt
Wevcore 27/Jul/13 2nd O/S
WalnutHorse 30/Jun/13 2nd
Hidden 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Tightsgirl 20/Apr/13 Lead
with Clare Francis
Monkey_Alan 26/Jan/13 2nd
Lawrence Dudley 26/Jan/13 Lead
Hidden ??/2013 -
ianto ??/2013 -
Monkey_Alan 07/Oct/12 2nd rpt
with Nadine
Rollo 22/Sep/12 2nd rpt

Nearly killed by blocks from the chossy finish!

with Saz
saz_b 22/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Had major major epic after overshooting the finish and almost failing numerous times and dislodging so much rock :s my own doing! Good line and good climbing otherwise!

with Rollo
Sam Husband 16/Sep/12 2nd O/S


with Ed
Stroppy 16/Sep/12 Lead O/S
cpoad 19/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Really nice

with Neil C
duncan 17/Aug/12 2nd O/S

One legged ascent

Hidden 17/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Aug/12 2nd rpt
therat 04/Aug/12 Lead
Monkey_Alan 29/Jul/12 Lead rpt
uncontrollable 29/Jul/12 2nd rpt
with Alan B
Julian Prieto 28/Jul/12 Lead rpt
with Andy Combes, Ollie Dorrell
Hidden 26/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
tradguy 22/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Rob Munday
Monkey_Alan 05/Jul/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 05/Jul/12 2nd rpt
Hidden ?/Jul/12 2nd O/S
paultaylor 21/May/12 Lead O/S
with Stu
Geoffers 25/Mar/12 2nd rpt
with Jo, Tim
Ali.B 22/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with PeterRobers
LukeyG 20/Mar/12 -


Hidden 11/Mar/12 Lead rpt
Monkey_Alan 11/Mar/12 2nd rpt
Hidden ?/Mar/12 -
louby 28/Jan/12 Lead
chris_B 28/Jan/12 2nd

Second time I've done this and it still feels tough.

manwithacam 21/Jan/12 AltLd

nice little VS but horrible belay options at top, best bet to go back to the fence posts.

with Mike R
Ian JL ??/2012 -
Kirill 13/Nov/11 Lead O/S
cem 13/Nov/11 2nd rpt
Monkey_Alan 06/Nov/11 Lead rpt
Amy Kilpin 05/Nov/11 2nd
Hidden 05/Nov/11 Lead rpt
AlexD 20/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Darren
Ciderslider 06/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Glad I had some big gear to protect the top crack !

with Rich
eroica64 24/Sep/11 2nd O/S

Briliant line. Essier than Zo Zo.

jasonpm 31/Jul/11 2nd
with Simon Chandler
chris_B 19/Jun/11 Lead

Good value for VS, or maybe I was having a bad day.

louby 19/Jun/11 2nd
matt.jj 30/May/11 2nd O/S
risby 08/May/11 Lead rpt
with James Bisset, Alan Blanchflower
Hidden 08/May/11 2nd O/S
Monkey_Alan 08/May/11 2nd rpt
L.miura 06/May/11 2nd
with Ali Bahar
Ali.B ?/May/11 Lead O/S
Dave Mahon ?/May/11 Lead O/S
Chris Ebbutt 27/Apr/11 Lead
with Dave R.
Tightsgirl 09/Apr/11 2nd
with DAJ
Ali.B ?/Apr/11 Lead O/S
The Ivanator 10/Mar/11 Lead rpt

Fun, great holds all the way, steep exit is a cheeky sting in the tail.

with Jez
jezb1 10/Mar/11 2nd

Nice route. Good big solid holds all the way.

Marti999 06/Mar/11 2nd rpt
with Steve Taylor, Mick Cooke
steve taylor 06/Mar/11 Lead

a very good climb

with Mick Cooke, marti hallett
Monkey_Alan 30/Jan/11 2nd
risby 30/Jan/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 30/Jan/11 Lead O/S
Monkey_Alan 07/Nov/10 Lead rpt
with Mark James
Hidden 18/Sep/10 Lead O/S
risby 18/Sep/10 2nd rpt
with Neil Weymouth, Tom Thorne
gibsond 18/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Thought this was easy for the grade. Nothing too technical, lots of gear and plenty of big jugs.

Hidden 29/Aug/10 2nd O/S
riddle 29/Aug/10 Lead

Another cracking route

with Yasmina
Mr Tickle 16/Aug/10 Lead rpt
with Neal Burton
Bob M 05/Aug/10 Lead
Tightsgirl 03/Jul/10 2nd
with DAJ, Clare Francis
jamespilgrim 26/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Mark
Monkey_Alan 23/May/10 Lead rpt
with Anne-Marie Shepherd, Ris Wright
Hidden 23/May/10 Lead O/S
risby 23/May/10 2nd O/S
with Alan Blanchflower, Anne-Marie Shepherd
tscoobydoo ?/May/10 2nd
with phillip belcher
mattkemp70 ?/Mar/10 2nd
with Westy
Graham Westbrook ?/Mar/10 Lead
davenev 17/Jan/10 2nd O/S
with luke
Mr Tickle 17/Jan/10 Lead O/S

couple of large wobbly blocks...take care. Nice route though

with davenev
eroica64 18/Oct/09 2nd

Steep, sustained, delightful.

Monkey_Alan 18/Oct/09 2nd rpt
uncontrollable 18/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with Alan B
silhouette 15/Oct/09 2nd
with tonanf
The Ivanator 04/Oct/09 2nd O/S
with Stewart
DaNo123 26/Sep/09 2nd
with martin
Monkey_Alan 12/Sep/09 Lead rpt
leonjones 24/Aug/09 2nd
with Phil Barley
Dizz 09/Aug/09 2nd
with hugh
timharrison 03/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Jo Chia
cayteye 02/Aug/09 2nd O/S
with Brian Mead
dan gibson 26/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with helen gibson
Monkey_Alan 18/Jul/09 2nd rpt
Indy Nile 18/Jul/09 Lead O/S

Lovely route, deserves 2 stars

Different Steve 12/Jul/09 Lead rpt
with Clare
PilarMartinez 04/Jul/09 Lead β
with MungoE2
Rollo 29/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Mike
mike.moss 29/Jun/09 2nd
MarkRyder 30/May/09 Lead O/S
with Lee
Ceridwen 20/May/09 2nd O/S
Sophie Nunn 20/May/09 Lead O/S
Monkey_Alan 26/Apr/09 2nd rpt
with Paul Stevens, Jill Stevens
TiffTiff 10/Jan/09 2nd O/S
with Heather
Hidden ??/2009 -
Hidden 28/Sep/08 Lead
Bob M 01/Sep/08 2nd
with Stewart Walker
Tom Gadsden 30/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Ben Williams
Monkey_Alan 24/Aug/08 2nd
tobydunford 23/Aug/08 Lead rpt
LiLaMont 23/Aug/08 2nd β
mikehenesy 30/Jul/08 2nd O/S
with Chris Lodge
MontyH 11/Jun/08 Lead

Felt alot better than the first time I climbed it.

with Paul Milton
JDSwain 11/May/08 2nd O/S
with Julian Prieto
Julian Prieto 11/May/08 Lead O/S
Merlin 10/Feb/08 2nd O/S
with Lloyd Ayres
Lloyders 10/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with Merlin
Hidden ??/2008 -
Ed Babs ?/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Kate
Different Steve 05/May/07 2nd rpt
with Simon Curtis
timharrison 08/Apr/07 2nd
trevor macalonan 08/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Tim
Bob M 02/Apr/07 Lead
Norman_P_W 02/Apr/07 2nd
with Bob M
timharrison 24/Mar/07 Lead O/S
with Seb
timharrison 24/Mar/07 Lead O/S

Had to do it again to get the gear out which Seb couldn't get first time

with Seb
LiLaMont 04/Feb/07 2nd
tobydunford 04/Feb/07 Lead O/S
winter_burn 04/Feb/07 Lead O/S

Seemed steep for entire route. Easy moves but the sustained steepness made it a little tricky

with andy
Andre Clarke ??/2007 2nd
with Weagie
Bob M 05/Nov/06 Lead
with Robert Floyd, Paul Rigg
MontyH 14/Oct/06 Lead O/S

Felt pretty steep, good route though.

with Mandy and Paul
Different Steve 23/Sep/06 2nd rpt


Hidden 11/Sep/06 Lead
Hidden 10/Sep/06 Lead O/S
givemetea 09/Oct/05 2nd O/S
with Craig Jenkins
Geoffers ??/2005 AltLd O/S
with Simon, Tim
feilx ??/2005 -
Bob M 16/May/04 2nd
with Pete Sedgwick
Hidden ??/2004 2nd O/S
cem 28/Sep/03 2nd
with Rod Strachan
Bob M 30/Aug/02 Lead
with Julian Taylor
Mark Stevenson 18/Aug/02 Lead O/S

Escaped up here after major rockfall on Oceanid.

with Nick Fisher
Hidden 02/May/02 AltLd
Bob M 08/Apr/00 2nd
with Jill Stevens
Marti999 ??/2000 Lead
Bob M 27/Jun/99 2nd
with Jill Stevens
Hidden 08/May/99 2nd O/S
Bob M 09/Jul/98 2nd
with Pam Jolliffe
Bob M 10/May/98 Lead
with Colin Setterfield
Budge 13/Apr/97 Lead
with Mike Oates
pezzerrr ?/Apr/97 Lead O/S
kp64zl ?/Mar/97 2nd
with Kirsten
Nigel Coe ??/1985 Lead

Approx date

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High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 53
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 49
Votes cast 44
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set