Rockfax Description
A nice little route on good rock and with a relatively solid finish. Climb up the left side of the black overhang and continue up the vertical, cracked wall with interest to finish on a good ledge on the right. © Rockfax
FA. Pete Finklaire, B.Etheridge 1976.
Ticklists
Swanage A-Z , Orange Spot Swanage , SW Climbs - Swanage , SPA Training Minimum Requirement , Dorset Routes that are worth doing
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Chriscan'tclimb | 29 Jan, 2022 |
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βeta: I don't see why Tensor II gets Top 50 while this route doesn't - it is far more fun to climb with nice flowy moves unlike its competition. | βeta? | |
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βeta: I don't see why Tensor II gets Top 50 while this route doesn't - it is far more fun to climb with nice flowy moves unlike its competition. |
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| chawn_met | 13 Nov, 2021 |
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βeta: Exciting, sustained route on good rock. I didn\'t see the loose block that some people have been reporting. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Exciting, sustained route on good rock. I didn't see the loose block that some people have been reporting. |
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| mattprince | 19 Apr, 2021 |
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βeta: Loose block around half way - same as other comments. Tried to knock off as someone is going to grab it as a hand hold but still there. Someone needs to ab down with a crowbar as this is going to land on a belayer | ||
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βeta: Loose block around half way - same as other comments. Tried to knock off as someone is going to grab it as a hand hold but still there. Someone needs to ab down with a crowbar as this is going to land on a belayer |
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| Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing | 18 Aug, 2020 |
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βeta: Keep your eyes out for the jutting block at around a third height. It’s extremely loose and moves a lot, but not quite enough to prize it out. Only a matter of time, so any future seconds may wish to give it another wobble, as it’s probably best out. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Keep your eyes out for the jutting block at around a third height. It’s extremely loose and moves a lot, but not quite enough to prize it out. Only a matter of time, so any future seconds may wish to give it another wobble, as it’s probably best out. |
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| Go_Climb_A_Rock | 30 May, 2019 |
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βeta: Loose obvious hold. I tried to free it but no luck. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Loose obvious hold. I tried to free it but no luck. |
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| Katsmiff | 12 May, 2019 |
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βeta: Yeah nice route. Tricky bouldery start. Lots of sound gear to be had. Went straight up the crack at the end instead of to the right, which after reading everyone’s description sounds like a better idea as I belayed from a rock and ledge instead of a chossy ending and belaying from a fence post. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Yeah nice route. Tricky bouldery start. Lots of sound gear to be had. Went straight up the crack at the end instead of to the right, which after reading everyone’s description sounds like a better idea as I belayed from a rock and ledge instead of a chossy ending and belaying from a fence post. |
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| ian bryant | 2 Feb, 2006 |
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βeta: the description in the CC guide is very different to this. i thought i'd done this route at the weekend but it was nothing like this description and was way too far away from the abseil pipe anchor to use as a belay at the top. the route we did was about 10m west of the abseil line and followed a broken crack/groove (as per the CC guide) - it was good all the same! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: the description in the CC guide is very different to this. i thought i'd done this route at the weekend but it was nothing like this description and was way too far away from the abseil pipe anchor to use as a belay at the top. the route we did was about 10m west of the abseil line and followed a broken crack/groove (as per the CC guide) - it was good all the same! |
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| GrahamD | 12 Dec, 2005 |
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βeta: A real gem - sort of Quality Street's baby brother. | βeta? | |
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βeta: A real gem - sort of Quality Street's baby brother. |
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Route of Interest
Freda
Grade: VS 5a ***
(Subluminal and Lighthouse Cliff)