30m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A much-attempted route that features a spectacular and powerful top pitch. Start beneath a huge rectangular depression that meets the overhangs at the fault-line.
1) 4b, 18m. From right of the low overhangs, move leftwards above them and climb the steady wall, with little in the way of gear, to a thread and nut belay in the rectangular depression.
2) 5b, 16m. Gain the fault-line beneath the overhang and move left to an arete (large cam useful). Pull over the roof (2 pegs) to reach the next roofs. Traverse rightwards underneath these and finish up a crack, past a bulge to the top. © Rockfax

FA. G.Smith, K.Winkworth 03/Apr/1972

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, Ultimate E1 ticklist, SW Climbs - Swanage.

Katsmiff 10/Jun AltLd O/S

Watched two guys having an epic so thought that looks fun let's do that route. Harder than the The Spook. Cursed my helmet when trying to traverse under the roof as it was preventing me from moving easily underneath. I did the second pitch which was fun. Only negative the route was quite dirty/sanding otherwise would have been awesome.

Horton 10/Jun 2nd dog

Lost my feet above the sandy break... Twice...

with Shane
islandlynx 10/Jun Lead O/S
with Horton
Rafal Malczyk 10/Jun AltLd dog
mikeski 14/Apr Lead O/S
richsmithinbristol 08/Apr Lead O/S

Think I backed off this years ago! Crux made harder cos the holds are covered in sand.

Hidden ??/2017 2nd
Ellis Bird ??/2017 AltLd O/S
mikeyjbs 10/Oct/16 Lead dog
with Idoia
Martin Cooper 24/Sep/16 2nd O/S

As 1 pitch. Tough

with Stan
Nick Russell 21/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Led as one pitch. Tough for the grade... constricted and a bit awkward under the overhang, and sandy. Peg above the roof looks pretty new.

with Tony
Bloke on a Rope 24/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Well happy to do this one, probs the hardest crux move I did on a E1 on this trip. The start was quite pleasant too if a bit run out, shame about how sandy it gets under the roof would be easy to peel off there. Was expecting the bit after the roof to be harder but was just nice climbing really.

tim.fairhall 24/Jul/16 2nd O/S

As 1 pitch

with Ian
Andrew Sloan 21/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Had planned to do it as one pitch; wishful thinking! Rebelayed in sentry box. First pitch very thinly protected. Second pitch quite daunting; first overhang on the left is the crux. Pleased to get it clean as overhangs aren't my forte.

with pete
thomb 14/May/16 AltLd
with Pete
Pete Scott 14/May/16 AltLd

Led p2, was great! little dusty below the big roof.

Hidden 08/May/16 2nd
La Mont 27/Feb/16 Lead
with Ellis
ricci.andrea86 ??/2016 -
clmacdonald 04/Oct/15 2nd
tskelhon 04/Oct/15 Lead
climbomaniac 27/Sep/15 Lead O/S

The roof is actually a little tricky, definitely on the hard side for E1 5b. Then just very exposed, a little powerful, and supercool!! Loved it!!! Much cooler than the Spook IMO.

Tubs 12/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
with AJM
AJM 12/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

Good route...

kenneM 22/Aug/15 Lead O/S

2nd pitch

with Chris
rajeshwarbisht 04/Jul/15 2nd dog
with Flavio
FlavioL1989 04/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Done in a single pitch. The roof was intense, knee bar helps. Thanks to whoever replaced the peg.

Hidden 27/Jun/15 2nd O/S
Jan.Hrb 27/Jun/15 AltLd
with Ales
Monkey_Alan 07/Jun/15 AltLd rpt
with DAJ Johnson
felixizzy 24/May/15 Lead O/S

One pitch, nearly didn't do this but so glad we did.

with Bernard
Hidden 18/Sep/14 Lead
jacobjlloyd 13/Sep/14 Lead rpt
with Peach
andycash 06/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Ash
mike mo 20/Jun/14 Lead
with Edd
Dave Thompson 03/Jun/14 Lead

done as one pitch. used 120cm sling on fixed cam under roof above sentry box- no issues with rope drag.

with Mark Lee
funsized 01/Jun/14 2nd O/S

Such a good effort from fi!

with Fi
mc fifi 01/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Tried to link as one pitch. Got scared swinging onto the arete so went back to belay ledge and brought JP up. Gave it another go. Got scared. Got sandy hands. Got over the roof! The crux is the scary sand covered move under the first roof. the roofs themselves are good.

bede.west 25/May/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 19/May/14 AltLd
Tom Livingstone 07/May/14 AltLd rpt


Alex Hallam 07/May/14 AltLd β

P1, glad I didn't lead P2 not ard but scary. BACK UP.

Stuart Johnston 04/May/14 AltLd O/S

Lead p2. Will be scary when the pegs have gone!

adam 24 04/May/14 AltLd O/S

Lead P1. The moves on the second pitch were exciting.

Kirill 30/Mar/14 Lead

Intended to do it in one pitch, got to the first roof, but could not arrange the gear I'd be happy with to commit to the step onto the arete. Got lowered back to the sentry box and brought Graham up for moral support. Went up again, this time with a bit more resolve. All good, but traversed too far left and had to abandon a wire and a sling to be able to reverse back to under the crux. From there on all went fine, just a few strenuous pulls on good holds. Not my best performance.

with Berta Lopez, Graham Dolman
Hidden 19/Jan/14 Lead O/S
sarpedon 29/Sep/13 Lead dog

Fell after clipping the peg past the crux, too pumped. The crux section is too sandy. (Also, don't climb trad with new shoes till they soften)

Martin Bagshaw 22/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

very sandy and a bit greasy

ipegg 22/Sep/13 AltLd
Hidden 26/Jul/13 AltLd dnf
crossdressingrodney 22/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Dusty bottom half, greasy upper half (although it might be OK with a bit of chalk).

Hidden 22/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 09/Jun/13 Lead
ChrisBrooke 02/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

P2. Sandy. Moves to the arete felt insecure because of the sand on all the holds. Found good small gear in the roof (by the rusted peg), then you can reach through to a good (looking) peg. Enjoyable crux moves. Second crux was fun and well-protected too. An enjoyable steep route. Well done to Colin for P1 with one piece of gear :)

with Colin Peck, Nadir Khan
Monkey_Alan 01/Jun/13 AltLd rpt

Led P2 after backing off two years ago. Move left under the roof still feels committing.

Georgia H ?/Jun/13 2nd
Stroppy 30/Apr/13 AltLd O/S

Led P2 went a little off route after pulling through but what can you do? Read the guidebook I guess.

RKirke 30/Apr/13 AltLd

Fell when a rock broke off.

ianto ??/2013 -
misterb 02/Dec/12 Lead O/S

in 1 pitch , easy for e1 and mostly solid apart from the very top

with justin
Justin T 02/Dec/12 2nd
with Nick B
tonevert 30/Sep/12 2nd
Kevster 30/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Graham Westbrook 28/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
jcooper8 10/Sep/12 2nd
Tom Livingstone 10/Sep/12 Lead O/S
ellis 02/Sep/12 2nd rpt

Rained off The Heat, led second pitch of Spooks, but not much left in the arms on day 2 of the annual outing!

with Tom Holdsworth, Tom Bridgeland
jcook1980 29/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
with Dan Moore
LukeyG 23/May/12 Lead

Not much peg left take big cam

paultaylor 17/May/12 AltLd O/S

P2 Needed the guns. Great route.

3 Names 17/May/12 Lead O/S
with Ed Bulman
will moy 16/May/12 AltLd O/S
with paul taylor
Mark Warnett ?/May/12 Lead dog

Beta warning - there is a lot of gear under the roof but you need to extend it massively to get around the roof. the break is sandy and damp and although the move onto the arete is quite easy it is insecure. i slipped trying to back climb to a rest having placed gear. i ended up lobbing about 6m to land below the belayer and just missing the ledge. felt like a lucky escape. having a really big cam would help avoid this risk

Hidden 24/Apr/12 AltLd dog
Simon Allcock 12/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
with Wilki
Alan100 22/Jan/12 AltLd

Had a good faff moving onto the arete once i got there and discovered a lack of gear and slightly damp, sandy holds. Once i committed tho it was easier than i thought and had satisfying exposure.

Dave89 22/Jan/12 AltLd

Led first pitch Alan Second. 1st Peg below roof in 2nd pitch totally knackered now.

with Fat Al
PAJames ??/2012 -
sparkass 26/Nov/11 Lead O/S
mikeyjbs 01/Oct/11 2nd β
with Roger Hamilton-Smith
riddle 01/Oct/11 Lead dog

One rest on a very hot day

Dean Russell 05/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
dswansonlow 02/Aug/11 2nd
with John Tanner
John Tanner 01/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Dougie Swanson-Low
rd20 17/Jul/11 AltLd O/S


with Patrick
james.pilbeam 02/Jul/11 Lead O/S
bigie bob 21/Jun/11 Lead O/S
brian watson 19/Jun/11 2nd O/S
Sophie Nunn 19/Jun/11 AltLd rpt

led 2nd pitch

with Alan, Brian
Monkey_Alan 19/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

Led P1. Shook myself up leading the first pitch, and backed off the second. Awkward moves under the roof to gain the slab above the arete.

uncontrollable 09/Apr/11 AltLd dog

lead first pitch, came off on pitch 2

with Daj
steveb2006 06/Apr/11 Lead

Meant to be in Scotland, but change direction with the forecast. Ian leads first pitch. Awkward overlap on pitch 2

with Ian Cartwright
martinazando 02/Apr/11 2nd
al99 02/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Sophie Nunn 08/Nov/10 Lead O/S
with Alex
AlexD 08/Nov/10 2nd
with Sophie
Hidden 18/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
jtree03 15/Aug/10 Lead
with dazza
Hidden 07/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Owen W-G 24/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

Had been intimidated by this route for years for no good reason. Not particularly hard for Swanage E1 (felt easier than The Spook) and pretty safe on whole with great exposure on the steep bits. I received a good tip to rack a friend 4 to back up the first (and worst) of the three pegs without which the sandy traverse under main roof would be quite scary. 2 pegs above in reasonable condition, a decent breather then an easier-than-expected juggy romp through the upper bulge. Pitch 1 is one to let your mate lead - thanks Andy!

with Andy G
manwithacam 18/Jul/10 2nd

Excellent climb

with Mike R
Different Steve 20/Jun/10 Lead rpt
with Emma Hawkins, Clio Jameson
Clee 20/Jun/10 2nd
with Steve
breed 17/Apr/10 AltLd O/S

led 1st pitch

with Ellis Bird
Hidden 13/Mar/10 AltLd O/S
The Jazz Butcher 07/Mar/10 2nd
with Bern
Hidden 07/Mar/10 Lead rpt
Tommy Harris ?/Mar/10 AltLd O/S
with phillip belcher
colkurtz 07/Feb/10 AltLd
with Robb
Hidden 07/Feb/10 AltLd
petecallaghan 17/Jan/10 AltLd O/S

Lead first pitch - not really an E1 pitch, but a pleasant warm-up. Second pitch was tricky approaching the crux. Would recommend replacement of the peg underneath the roof. Failed to remove David's cam from the roof and the RP next to the peg. David later abseiled down to retrieve the gear but had to abandon the cam.

Hidden 29/Aug/09 AltLd
Hidden 26/Jul/09 2nd O/S
Ceridwen 19/Jun/09 2nd O/S
with Jacob
jacobjlloyd 19/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Ceri Hutchinson
jezb1 13/Jun/09 AltLd

lead the easy first pitch. second pitch was fierce enough just following!

clipskipper 13/Jun/09 AltLd dog
with Jez B
Elliot King LC&CC 10/Jun/09 2nd O/S
Bob M 20/May/09 2nd dog
with Mick Ryan
metal arms 27/Dec/08 Lead O/S

Both pitches in 1 runout

Hidden 11/Oct/08 Lead O/S
GPN ?/Oct/08 AltLd
Ed Babs 21/Sep/08 Lead O/S

+ 2nd with Iain Moodie 07/Aug/10 + Matt Perks 17/Mar/11

with John Vet
Hidden ?/Sep/08 -
Brown 24/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Henry
tobydunford 07/Aug/08 Lead O/S

I think Jamie you will remember I lead both pitches!!

jamie ward 07/Aug/08 AltLd O/S
with Toby Dunford
dan gibson 01/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with anna barnes
Hidden 23/Feb/08 Lead dnf
Marq 30/Sep/07 AltLd O/S

MD Dan fell off top pitch

with Daniel Dennehy
dan gibson 19/Jul/07 Lead O/S
cem 29/Apr/07 AltLd rpt

Led p2

with Clive Marston
Hidden 08/Apr/07 Lead dnf
tonanf ?/Apr/07 Lead dog

second climb of the year, better than first,fell off crux, pulling flat hand under undercut flake, hand slipped out. Didnt enjoy.

with burt
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
chrisbevins ??/2007 Lead O/S
The Jazz Butcher ??/2007 -
Ramon Marin 08/Oct/06 Lead O/S
with Salomon Fernandez
Different Steve 23/Sep/06 Lead dog

1 rest on the crux - Damn!

Hidden ??/2006 -
cem 11/Dec/05 AltLd rpt

Led p2

feilx ??/2005 -
Hidden 05/Sep/04 Lead O/S
pezzerrr 19/Aug/02 Lead O/S
steveb2006 22/Jun/02 2nd

Lead pitch 1 (4b)

with Roy Ruddle
cem 10/Nov/01 Lead O/S

Led both pitches

with Ian Folcard
lost.arrow 26/May/01 Lead dnf

E1 4b, 5a, ** in my book. Wet dirty sand.

with Paul Palfreyman
Ian JL ??/2001 Lead O/S
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
Marti999 ??/2000 Lead
Hidden 08/May/99 Lead O/S
WB 19/Nov/98 AltLd O/S
with Guy
Roget 01/Aug/98 Lead O/S
with jon
migs493 14/Apr/98 AltLd O/S
Ally Smith ??/1998 Lead O/S
Mark Kemball 22/Aug/96 AltLd
with Lee Bartrop
TonyF 15/Oct/94 AltLd O/S
with Pete Scott
Robmwatt ??/1994 -
Hidden 14/Aug/93 Lead O/S
sdht ??/1993 -
kp64zl ?/Oct/91 AltLd
with Simon T
Hidden 03/May/90 -
Nigel Coe 03/May/90 -
with Scott Titt, Tim Dunsby
steve taylor ?/Aug/88 AltLd

pulled on peg!

with mark grover
Hidden ??/1988 Lead O/S
Nigel Coe 14/Aug/83 AltLd
with Pete Oxley
Dave Musgrove 21/Feb/81 AltLd
with Mike Butler
Nigel Coe 15/Jun/80 AltLd dog

3 pts aid

with Dave Kyle
Chris Terrey ?/Apr/80 2nd
with Mike Morrison
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