40m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Fine wall climbing on the initial pitch, rounded off by a challenging top pitch. Start just left of a big groove/corner.

1) 5b, 20m. Climb the wall, trending left to a down-pointing spike. Move left and up past a bulge (peg) into a shallow groove. Continue to a belay on the left at the fault-line.
2) 5b, 20m. Trend steeply rightwards under blocks, then over to a small ledge. Move on and rightwards, around an arete, into a corner with a large flake. Finish up this, exiting left. © Rockfax

FA. Richard Crewe, A.Wilde, P.Crewe 03/Apr/1972

Ticklists

Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012

Feedback

UserDateNotes
Marq 10 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Climbed on 8 April 06. First pitch felt more like 5a then 5b. Second pitch was def harder than first. Rockfall may have been the wedged boulder, because there wasn't one! Belayed off the peg and a couple of nuts in the cramped space. Good route though!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Climbed on 8 April 06. First pitch felt more like 5a then 5b. Second pitch was def harder than first. Rockfall may have been the wedged boulder, because there wasn't one! Belayed off the peg and a couple of nuts in the cramped space. Good route though!
clipskipper 20 Mar, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Some rockfall from lower pitch, so it looks like this needs to be regraded. Volunteers?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Some rockfall from lower pitch, so it looks like this needs to be regraded. Volunteers?
Jon Greengrass 22 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Classic E1 a nice wall to start then a cool traverse and some nice technical moves onto a slab. The Belay is indeed cramped but atmospheric, and the anchors seemed to block holds that would have been handy for leaving the tiny ledge, (crux) a scary but adequately protected traverse leads into nowhere but then jugs arrive and you can romp up enormous flakes to the top.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Classic E1 a nice wall to start then a cool traverse and some nice technical moves onto a slab. The Belay is indeed cramped but atmospheric, and the anchors seemed to block holds that would have been handy for leaving the tiny ledge, (crux) a scary but adequately protected traverse leads into nowhere but then jugs arrive and you can romp up enormous flakes to the top.
purple sue 9 Nov, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Yeah, echo Mikes comments about grades. Give it two stars for two really absorbing pitches. A big thankyou to the beneavolent soul who supplied the bomber new belay stake above the top pitch.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Yeah, echo Mikes comments about grades. Give it two stars for two really absorbing pitches. A big thankyou to the beneavolent soul who supplied the bomber new belay stake above the top pitch.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
alvaroBV 14 Sep - Climbed with Giuseppe. First pitch felt okay, second pitch felt quite weird
Climbed with Giuseppe. First pitch felt okay, second pitch felt quite weird
Bruise Apprentice 3 Aug AltLd O/S P2, which has serious fall potential at the start. Would have had a hard time explaining to Matt's partner why his head ended up so far up my arse, that's how close I was to crash landing on him after moving off the belay.
P2, which has serious fall potential at the start. Would have had a hard time explaining to Matt's partner why his head ended up so far up my arse, that's how close I was to crash landing on him after moving off the belay.
matt1024 3 Aug AltLd O/S Led P1. Enjoyable engaging climbing. Less enjoyable watching your partner battle with the stiff moves above your head right off the very cramped stance...
Led P1. Enjoyable engaging climbing. Less enjoyable watching your partner battle with the stiff moves above your head right off the very cramped stance...
afterthesend 24 Mar Lead O/S
paultaylor 26 Sep, 2018 AltLd rpt
Owen Davies 25 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S
with Mum
with Mum
richfitz 15 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S
georgejl 12 May, 2018 AltLd O/S
RangerMcFreindly 12 May, 2018 2nd O/S
mutt 22 Apr, 2018 AltLd dog
with sarah
with sarah
Hidden 23 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S
Horton 10 Jun, 2017 2nd O/S Great route. Would love to come back and lead one day
Great route. Would love to come back and lead one day
islandlynx 10 Jun, 2017 Lead rpt In a single pitch. One of the best routes of the grade at swanage
with Horton
In a single pitch. One of the best routes of the grade at swanage
with Horton
andycash 9 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S followed up Luca on first pitch but belayed to far left and meant for huge rope drag so finished straight up and linked onto Robud
with LucaC
followed up Luca on first pitch but belayed to far left and meant for huge rope drag so finished straight up and linked onto Robud
with LucaC
LucaC 9 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S P1. Easy for 5b but the rock is bit friable and the runners aren't confidence inspiring.
P1. Easy for 5b but the rock is bit friable and the runners aren't confidence inspiring.
rosiehawker 14 Apr, 2017 AltLd I led pitch 1
I led pitch 1
mikeski 14 Apr, 2017 AltLd O/S
manwithacam 24 Feb, 2017 2nd Mark led in one pitch. Nice climb.
with Mark Grist
Mark led in one pitch. Nice climb.
with Mark Grist
The Grist 24 Feb, 2017 Lead O/S Enjoyable climb. A good warm up.
with Dan Metcalfe
Enjoyable climb. A good warm up.
with Dan Metcalfe
Ellis Bird ??, 2017 AltLd O/S
Kirill 8 Oct, 2016 Lead
with EeFu
with EeFu
EeFu 8 Oct, 2016 2nd
with Kirill
with Kirill
Chris Sansum 13 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
with Steve Collard
with Steve Collard
Hidden 13 Aug, 2016 2nd O/S
ian d f 7 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
onlyfoddington 7 Aug, 2016 2nd O/S I found the traverse on the second pitch hard.
with ian d f
I found the traverse on the second pitch hard.
with ian d f
el_monty 29 Jul, 2016 2nd β
with Jerome
with Jerome
Bloke on a Rope 24 Jul, 2016 2nd β Lovely jubilee!
Lovely jubilee!
Hidden 24 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S
mjeffery 30 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S
Hidden 8 May, 2016 2nd
Bernie L 25 Mar, 2016 Lead O/S Really cool route but a bit bold reaching the Downwards spike on first pitch. Might have just missed the runners. Lead in one pitch
Really cool route but a bit bold reaching the Downwards spike on first pitch. Might have just missed the runners. Lead in one pitch
Hidden 25 Mar, 2016 2nd
Sam Head 22 Mar, 2016 AltLd O/S
Graham Westbrook 22 Mar, 2016 AltLd O/S Led 2nd pitch. Quite tough and commiting but not that sustained. Hard E1
Led 2nd pitch. Quite tough and commiting but not that sustained. Hard E1
rajeshwarbisht 4 Jul, 2015 2nd O/S
with Flavio
with Flavio
Flavio 4 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
TomRiddelsdell 27 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S Lead first pitch
Lead first pitch
islandlynx 27 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S Led p2. Tom didn't seem too comfortable on the belay, not sure who was most worried while I made the crux moves.
Led p2. Tom didn't seem too comfortable on the belay, not sure who was most worried while I made the crux moves.
Hidden 11 Jun, 2015 2nd O/S
bryan61 7 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S
with m meaney
with m meaney
Tim_C7 3 May, 2015 AltLd O/S
with Luke Williams
with Luke Williams
London Luke 3 May, 2015 2nd O/S
with Tim_C7
with Tim_C7
Hidden 10 Mar, 2015 Lead O/S
Shane Willis 24 Jan, 2015 Lead O/S Great route! Led both pitches. Tricky swapping with my second on the tiny belay stance! But worth it. The first pitch is good climbing, the second pitch is fun climbing! :P Was a hard E1 though.
Great route! Led both pitches. Tricky swapping with my second on the tiny belay stance! But worth it. The first pitch is good climbing, the second pitch is fun climbing! :P Was a hard E1 though.
kylo-342 ?Nov, 2014 AltLd O/S I led 2nd pitch.
I led 2nd pitch.
julesmckim 31 Oct, 2014 AltLd Two great contrasting pitches. Looks loose on the top pitch but is mostly solid. Good gear throughout
with Rob Smart
Two great contrasting pitches. Looks loose on the top pitch but is mostly solid. Good gear throughout
with Rob Smart
steveb2006 9 Sep, 2014 Lead Another good repeat from 25 years ago. Led in one long pitch - as David not keen on the belays.
with David Andrew
Another good repeat from 25 years ago. Led in one long pitch - as David not keen on the belays.
with David Andrew
Rachel Slater 24 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S P1
P1
Duncan Campbell 24 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S Led P2 which had a tricky/slopey crux section.
Led P2 which had a tricky/slopey crux section.
mikeyjbs 1 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
with mat downes
with mat downes
adam 24 4 May, 2014 AltLd O/S Lead P1. Very contrasting pitches, open wall climbing to exciting exposure on P2.
Lead P1. Very contrasting pitches, open wall climbing to exciting exposure on P2.
Stuart Johnston 4 May, 2014 AltLd Lead p2. Awesome!
with adam 24
Lead p2. Awesome!
with adam 24
mike lawrence? 11 Apr, 2014 Lead
with Paul
with Paul
Andrew Sloan 15 Mar, 2014 AltLd dog Led second pitch. One fall on initial traverse, quite a stiff move across. Fortunately soft landing on top of martin!
Led second pitch. One fall on initial traverse, quite a stiff move across. Fortunately soft landing on top of martin!
Martin Haworth 15 Mar, 2014 AltLd O/S
Hidden 24 Oct, 2013 AltLd O/S
Nick Clement 6 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
with mandy clement
with mandy clement
Sophie Nunn 27 Jul, 2013 2nd rpt
Luxulyan 27 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 24 Jul, 2013 AltLd
crossdressingrodney 23 Jun, 2013 2nd O/S In one pitch.
with AlexM
In one pitch.
with AlexM
Hidden 23 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S
Stroppy 30 Apr, 2013 2nd dog Well... we did P1 then Rog went pretty far off route and I finished up the top of Batt crack. Hold snapped off in my hand (fell) whilst on second.
with RKirke
Well... we did P1 then Rog went pretty far off route and I finished up the top of Batt crack. Hold snapped off in my hand (fell) whilst on second.
with RKirke
RKirke 30 Apr, 2013 AltLd O/S
with Stroppy
with Stroppy
ianto ??, 2013 -
Hidden 2 Dec, 2012 AltLd
Justin T 2 Dec, 2012 AltLd O/S
with Nick B
with Nick B
Hidden 15 Sep, 2012 AltLd O/S
AlexD 30 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S
with Ed Babs
with Ed Babs
Alor_lab 26 Aug, 2012 2nd O/S
3 Names 6 Aug, 2012 2nd
with Dan Craig
with Dan Craig
pelvoux 4 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S Second the first pitch and lead the second. Long traverse after the belay not well protected then plenty of gear.
with Chris Bull
Second the first pitch and lead the second. Long traverse after the belay not well protected then plenty of gear.
with Chris Bull
Hidden 3 Aug, 2012 Lead O/S
paultaylor 29 May, 2012 AltLd O/S Top pitch is poo
Top pitch is poo
will moy 29 May, 2012 AltLd O/S
with paul taylor
with paul taylor
Hidden 11 Mar, 2012 Lead O/S
Monkey_Alan 11 Mar, 2012 2nd rpt Gave it everything on the start of P2, got totally pumped and let Tom lead it. Was still pumped when I was seconding it!
Gave it everything on the start of P2, got totally pumped and let Tom lead it. Was still pumped when I was seconding it!
clipskipper 19 Feb, 2012 2nd β
Alan100 22 Jan, 2012 AltLd Lead p2. Briefly strenuous but well protected with rests.
Lead p2. Briefly strenuous but well protected with rests.
Dave89 22 Jan, 2012 AltLd Led first pitch Alan Second. Had to rest on rope to get gear out on 2nd pitch
with Alan100
Led first pitch Alan Second. Had to rest on rope to get gear out on 2nd pitch
with Alan100
PAJames ??, 2012 -
Kirill 13 Nov, 2011 AltLd dog led p2, dogged the start of it
with cem
led p2, dogged the start of it
with cem
cem 13 Nov, 2011 AltLd rpt Led p1. Can't understand the votes for E2. Start of p2 is potentially thuggy but it's possible to use a bit of finesse making the move across under the O/H (don't go up too high)
with Kirill
Led p1. Can't understand the votes for E2. Start of p2 is potentially thuggy but it's possible to use a bit of finesse making the move across under the O/H (don't go up too high)
with Kirill
Monkey_Alan 6 Nov, 2011 AltLd O/S Led P1. Nice and technical, unlike the thuggy P2.
Led P1. Nice and technical, unlike the thuggy P2.
WB 25 Sep, 2011 AltLd O/S frightening. tricky climbing and lots of loose holds. harder than the e2s!
with GuyM
frightening. tricky climbing and lots of loose holds. harder than the e2s!
with GuyM
Dan Lane 17 Sep, 2011 2nd O/S In one pitch, good climbing and not as hard as it looks, still hard though!
with Martin Kocsis
In one pitch, good climbing and not as hard as it looks, still hard though!
with Martin Kocsis
GuyM ?Sep, 2011 AltLd First pitch good - second pitch a bit serious and loose..
with WB
First pitch good - second pitch a bit serious and loose..
with WB
dswansonlow 2 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S
with John Tanner
with John Tanner
John Tanner 1 Aug, 2011 2nd O/S
with Dougie Swanson-Low
with Dougie Swanson-Low
benjino 6 May, 2011 AltLd O/S Lead Second Pitch
Lead Second Pitch
jezb1 26 Apr, 2011 2nd Good meaty middle
Good meaty middle
colkurtz 23 Apr, 2011 2nd
with Robb
with Robb
Hidden 23 Apr, 2011 Lead
Hidden 2 Apr, 2011 Lead rpt
Hidden 19 Feb, 2011 AltLd O/S
Hidden 19 Feb, 2011 AltLd dog
cymjt ??, 2011 -
Hidden 7 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S
Hidden 13 Jun, 2010 AltLd O/S
The Jazz Butcher 7 Mar, 2010 Lead
with Bern
with Bern
Hidden 7 Mar, 2010 2nd rpt
Ceridwen 8 Jun, 2009 AltLd dog The second pitch was brutal! The first was exactly what it says in the guide, nice wall climbing. The second pitch was scary, thuggy, steep and the start was frankly dangerous (potential fall strait onto the belayer). I hung around securing a decent nut on in situe and crap gear before setting off to prevent a potential factor 2 fall onto the belay. Did the rest clean. Very enjoyable once away from belay.
The second pitch was brutal! The first was exactly what it says in the guide, nice wall climbing. The second pitch was scary, thuggy, steep and the start was frankly dangerous (potential fall strait onto the belayer). I hung around securing a decent nut on in situe and crap gear before setting off to prevent a potential factor 2 fall onto the belay. Did the rest clean. Very enjoyable once away from belay.
Sophie Nunn 8 Jun, 2009 AltLd
petegruf 10 May, 2009 AltLd O/S My first Swanage E1. Lead P1. Felt easy for 5b though the gear wasn't great. P2 strenuous but not that difficult. Great route and I'm well chuffed.
with chris b
My first Swanage E1. Lead P1. Felt easy for 5b though the gear wasn't great. P2 strenuous but not that difficult. Great route and I'm well chuffed.
with chris b
Mr Tickle 9 May, 2009 Lead O/S start of 2nd pitch was hard, felt harder than E1. First pitch was lovelt though.
with davenev
start of 2nd pitch was hard, felt harder than E1. First pitch was lovelt though.
with davenev
davenev 9 May, 2009 2nd dog Start of Second pitch felt very, very hard
Start of Second pitch felt very, very hard
jacobjlloyd 28 Feb, 2009 Lead O/S one pitch
with feilx
one pitch
with feilx
feilx 28 Feb, 2009 2nd rpt
scott titt ??, 2009 -
Hidden 28 Sep, 2008 Lead
Ed Babs 21 Sep, 2008 Lead O/S + AltLd (P2) with Iain Moodie 07/Aug/10
with John Vet
+ AltLd (P2) with Iain Moodie 07/Aug/10
with John Vet
tobydunford 23 Aug, 2008 Lead O/S Lovely sustained first pitch and a nice belay stance. almost lost it going over the bulge on second pitch thanks to a crumbling hand hold, the rest was pretty nice and on big holds!!
Lovely sustained first pitch and a nice belay stance. almost lost it going over the bulge on second pitch thanks to a crumbling hand hold, the rest was pretty nice and on big holds!!
LiLaMont 23 Aug, 2008 2nd β
Hidden 17 Aug, 2008 AltLd O/S
Tobes ?Aug, 2008 AltLd O/S
with Oli
with Oli
Owen W-G 4 May, 2008 Lead O/S Led both pitches. P1 pleasantly enjoyable but first 5m of P2 felt well hard, straight from the belay. Had a bit of a moment after mounting the bulge - scared, gripped, too pumped to place pro, you know the feeling. Tony looked a bit worried too, especially since I'd ignored instruction to belay on L, such that he was right underneath a wobbling leader! A bit E2ish?
with Tony Seale
Led both pitches. P1 pleasantly enjoyable but first 5m of P2 felt well hard, straight from the belay. Had a bit of a moment after mounting the bulge - scared, gripped, too pumped to place pro, you know the feeling. Tony looked a bit worried too, especially since I'd ignored instruction to belay on L, such that he was right underneath a wobbling leader! A bit E2ish?
with Tony Seale
pezzerrr 24 Mar, 2008 Lead O/S Jenga finish.
Jenga finish.
sadams 23 Feb, 2008 AltLd Led second pitch 5b
with Eric Hildrew
Led second pitch 5b
with Eric Hildrew
clipskipper 19 Aug, 2007 AltLd O/S My first E1. Seconding the wall on the first pitch the 'downward-pointing spike' came off in my hand. Leading the top pitch a foot-hold broke off as I mantled over the roof. Great atmospheric climbing that I enjoyed immensely!
with Davey Boy
My first E1. Seconding the wall on the first pitch the 'downward-pointing spike' came off in my hand. Leading the top pitch a foot-hold broke off as I mantled over the roof. Great atmospheric climbing that I enjoyed immensely!
with Davey Boy
tonanf ?Aug, 2007 AltLd O/S
with Pep
with Pep
dan gibson 15 Mar, 2007 AltLd O/S
with helen gibson
with helen gibson
Richard Horn 10 Mar, 2007 AltLd O/S
chrisbevins ??, 2007 Lead O/S
The Jazz Butcher ??, 2007 -
Different Steve 29 Jul, 2006 AltLd dog Led P1 clean - nice climbing after initial sandy section. Fall 2nding pitch 2 - loose rock?
Led P1 clean - nice climbing after initial sandy section. Fall 2nding pitch 2 - loose rock?
Marq 8 Apr, 2006 2nd DD, Mark backed off 2nd pitch
with Daniel Dennehy
DD, Mark backed off 2nd pitch
with Daniel Dennehy
Hidden ??, 2006 -
jamieevans ?Aug, 2005 AltLd O/S
feilx ??, 2005 -
Jon Greengrass ??, 2004 -
with Paul H
with Paul H
cem 28 Sep, 2003 Lead O/S Led both pitches
with Rod Strachan
Led both pitches
with Rod Strachan
tapley 26 Oct, 2000 2nd
Marti999 ??, 2000 Lead
kylo-342 ?Jul, 1991 -
with Paul
with Paul
MikePycroft 11 Feb, 1989 AltLd
steveb2006 11 Feb, 1989 AltLd I lead second pitch. My first Swanage route
I lead second pitch. My first Swanage route
Nigel Coe 2 May, 1987 -
with Tim Dunsby
with Tim Dunsby
turnerk ??, 1979 Lead O/S
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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 45
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 44
Votes cast 41
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Not Set