Rockfax Description
I, 105m, 1 -2 hours. Start where the rock steepens and solidifies. This is just to the left of the ridge crest, on a ledge a couple of metres up and left from the foot of the buttress, at a piece of white tat threaded through a drilled hole.
1) 4a, 18m. Climb an easy slab, step left and follow big flaky holds to two bolts on a ledge.
2) 4b, 20m. Follow the ridge easily from the belay to a small col with a steep 4m corner on the right. Climb this to a sloping ledge with two bolts which, awkwardly enough, are a metre or so apart.
3) 4b, 12m. Take the ramp on the left of the belay to a 5m corner on the right. After climbing this, the belay is 3m further up the ridge on the left.
From here, scramble along the ridge via the odd bolt to where it ends. Drop down left and walk round to the foot of the next pitch, which starts on a slab to the right of a corner.
4) 5a, 18m. The first bolt is hard to spot but it is there, 4m up on the left. Start at the foot of a groove, which you gain via a short slab. Follow this for 8m then step left onto a ledge with another groove above it. Climb this and then the hand-jamming crack and flakes above.
Scramble along the ridge behind and either make a 20m abseil off a metal ring, or continue until the ridge ends after 50m. Come back round onto the Chamonix side and walk to the final pitch, which is 5m onto the far side of a small col. There is an excellent 6a pitch next to the abseil line for those who fancy a bit of tougher climbing. The rock is superb, so hopefully more routes will be bolted on this wall.
5) 4b, 35m. Climb flakes and a vague groove for 15m to a grassy ledge. Follow this left into a grass filled groove which leads to a slab above. The belay is off a single bolt, which also serves as the final belay on Crakoukass (page §§§). © Rockfax

Feedback

UserDateNotes
clokpin 9 Jul Show βeta
βeta: The 4th pitch is fantastic (love the crack jamming) but a bolt seems to be missing in the last move with considerable runout - quickly placed a nut there out of caution.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The 4th pitch is fantastic (love the crack jamming) but a bolt seems to be missing in the last move with considerable runout - quickly placed a nut there out of caution.
clokpin 9 Jul Show βeta
βeta: Hard to locate the last two pitch when there is snow around - 5a pitch was nice bit of crack climbing - didn't do last pitch
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Hard to locate the last two pitch when there is snow around - 5a pitch was nice bit of crack climbing - didn't do last pitch
teh_mark 30 Jun Show βeta
βeta: The last pitch is utter shite, I don't recommend it. The crux pitch is also apparently somewhat hard to find when there's a lot of snow around.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The last pitch is utter shite, I don't recommend it. The crux pitch is also apparently somewhat hard to find when there's a lot of snow around.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Elman 9 Sep Lead O/S Led all pitches.
Led all pitches.
MichealMurphy ?Sep AltLd O/S Went together on most of it. didn't do last pitch. about 1hr. Easiest to approach from brevent crags.
Went together on most of it. didn't do last pitch. about 1hr. Easiest to approach from brevent crags.
lewis_james84 19 Aug AltLd
davelongbottom 19 Aug AltLd
AlexDKLaw 16 Aug AltLd O/S
Kristian1805 13 Aug -
Subseaclimber 11 Aug Lead
Hidden 11 Aug Lead O/S
Gibbs3799 11 Aug Lead O/S
Gibbs3799 11 Aug Lead
Dean.p.92 8 Aug AltLd O/S
Jamiewalkerjones 8 Aug AltLd
Johnathan 3 Aug AltLd O/S Didn't do the complete route. Went onto the wrong ride. Realised at the end and then went back to Mic Et Mousse to do the crux pitch.
Didn't do the complete route. Went onto the wrong ride. Realised at the end and then went back to Mic Et Mousse to do the crux pitch.
Olliequilter123 30 Jul 2nd
GrayGPT 30 Jul -
Hidden 28 Jul Lead
Horatio Everett 27 Jul 2nd β
with Wolfgang
with Wolfgang
Hidden 25 Jul Lead O/S
eliastess 24 Jul -
eliastess 24 Jul -
jim_l 20 Jul AltLd O/S
scottrobertson1990 18 Jul -
with Jack Lydon
with Jack Lydon
Hidden 17 Jul 2nd O/S
MeabhMc 11 Jul AltLd O/S Exactly the kind of day I wanted to have out! Lead pitches 2,3,4 and 5. Pitches 2 and 4 felt very short, decided to link 4 and 5 only to realize that I was finished the route past all the last bolts. Loads of blocks around to provide a great belay though so nothing to be worried about. Such lovely climbing and amazing views!
Exactly the kind of day I wanted to have out! Lead pitches 2,3,4 and 5. Pitches 2 and 4 felt very short, decided to link 4 and 5 only to realize that I was finished the route past all the last bolts. Loads of blocks around to provide a great belay though so nothing to be worried about. Such lovely climbing and amazing views!
Orla_Mac 8 Jul AltLd Fun route, you have to walk on down pass it before recognising it. Last pitch isn’t as bad as some have said, a bit run out and a few bolts missing. Good first route with Matt on our own.
Fun route, you have to walk on down pass it before recognising it. Last pitch isn’t as bad as some have said, a bit run out and a few bolts missing. Good first route with Matt on our own.
CB9401 7 Jul Lead
with Cat Walker
with Cat Walker
clokpin 6 Jul Lead RP 1st multipitch - first 3 pitches are fun scrambling - good for beginner to practice alpine ropework. Route finding is bit tough after 3th pitch due to snow. Was going to skip 4th pitch due to time but ended up doing it cause we mis-recognize it as the final pitch. Glad to see the final pitch isn't worth doing so we didnt miss much. Great day for those starting out who want to explore the Brevent area.
with Winnie the Pooh
1st multipitch - first 3 pitches are fun scrambling - good for beginner to practice alpine ropework. Route finding is bit tough after 3th pitch due to snow. Was going to skip 4th pitch due to time but ended up doing it cause we mis-recognize it as the final pitch. Glad to see the final pitch isn't worth doing so we didnt miss much. Great day for those starting out who want to explore the Brevent area.
with Winnie the Pooh
auld al 4 Jul AltLd O/S As others have said, last pitch isn't great
As others have said, last pitch isn't great
martha1121 4 Jul Lead O/S Skipped 2nd last pitch since didn’t want to get feet wet.
with Jamie Macalister
Skipped 2nd last pitch since didn’t want to get feet wet.
with Jamie Macalister
OaHolroyd 2 Jul AltLd
EGriffin 2 Jul AltLd O/S Descent enough route - did it all in mountaineering boots. The first two bolts on the first pitch are loose and there's a bolt missing on the last pitch. It was very useful to take some medium sized cams. Pitches led by: 1 - Oscar, 2 - Ed, 3 - Oscar, 4 - Ed, 5 - Oscar.
Descent enough route - did it all in mountaineering boots. The first two bolts on the first pitch are loose and there's a bolt missing on the last pitch. It was very useful to take some medium sized cams. Pitches led by: 1 - Oscar, 2 - Ed, 3 - Oscar, 4 - Ed, 5 - Oscar.
matthewspence 1 Jul AltLd
Hidden 1 Jul AltLd O/S
Hidden 30 Jun AltLd O/S
olgadapolga 25 Jun AltLd O/S Lovely day, straightforward route - although the last two pitches were difficult to find in the large amount of snow. Skipped the last pitch as we had heard it wasn't worth doing and it was getting very hot by midday. Liam smashed out the 5a pitch, and then we headed back to Cham for much needed ice cream!
with Liam
Lovely day, straightforward route - although the last two pitches were difficult to find in the large amount of snow. Skipped the last pitch as we had heard it wasn't worth doing and it was getting very hot by midday. Liam smashed out the 5a pitch, and then we headed back to Cham for much needed ice cream!
with Liam
Calum3610 25 Jun Lead
with Emma (AMC)
with Emma (AMC)
Hidden 24 Jun AltLd O/S
steve_gibbs 24 Jun AltLd O/S
with Tom Alford
with Tom Alford
Aquinn 19 Jun AltLd O/S
Hidden 19 Jun AltLd O/S
JFT 19 Jun AltLd O/S Really fun apart from the final pitch which was awful... Loose rock and grass/mud. If reading this before doing yourself miss the last pitch and take the nice looking ridge instead !
Really fun apart from the final pitch which was awful... Loose rock and grass/mud. If reading this before doing yourself miss the last pitch and take the nice looking ridge instead !
Bex 18 Jun AltLd O/S Clare - 1,2, Me - 3, Ben - 4,5
with Clare Petrie, Ben Collins
Clare - 1,2, Me - 3, Ben - 4,5
with Clare Petrie, Ben Collins
Ben Collins 18 Jun AltLd O/S Had to down climb bellow the snow to the start of the 4th pitch.
Had to down climb bellow the snow to the start of the 4th pitch.
alixfelly 13 Jun AltLd First alpine route at altitude after the conville course. Fab day out! Beautiful views over the Aguilles and Mont Blanc and the perfect way to round up a great week with some new friends.
with TimG
First alpine route at altitude after the conville course. Fab day out! Beautiful views over the Aguilles and Mont Blanc and the perfect way to round up a great week with some new friends.
with TimG
Ruaraidh 13 Jun AltLd O/S Missed final pitch, half under snow
Missed final pitch, half under snow
wnicholson 13 Jun AltLd O/S
HamishCarter 13 Jun AltLd O/S
Hidden 13 Jun AltLd O/S
TimG 13 Jun AltLd O/S
Webster 12 Jun AltLd easy and enjoyable, except for the utterly unnecessary bolting! nearly every bolt is right next to a perfect crack or spike :(
easy and enjoyable, except for the utterly unnecessary bolting! nearly every bolt is right next to a perfect crack or spike :(
Schaps 8 Jun Lead β Easy route. Plenty of snow made it more interesting to find the starting bolts
Easy route. Plenty of snow made it more interesting to find the starting bolts
Hidden 2 Sep, 2018 AltLd O/S
flanyolo 30 Aug, 2018 AltLd
Steely12 30 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
lo22 30 Aug, 2018 AltLd G/U
Hidden 29 Aug, 2018 AltLd
caron gaisford 29 Aug, 2018 AltLd
JezzaCat 29 Aug, 2018 AltLd
with Richard L, caron gaisford
with Richard L, caron gaisford
Ollie B 2 Aug, 2018 Solo O/S
with J.Williams
with J.Williams
JoeWilliams 2 Aug, 2018 Solo O/S
fellgazelle 31 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
with Jono Hatton, Sam Ward
with Jono Hatton, Sam Ward
Richard Alderton 24 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Cameron
with Cameron
Hexman 16 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S Easy intro climb
Easy intro climb
jcoup 10 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S Good fun. Too much snow at the base of the last pitch so we climbed some other line of bolts. Was very easy!
Good fun. Too much snow at the base of the last pitch so we climbed some other line of bolts. Was very easy!
Aimee Elliott Demay ?Jul, 2018 AltLd
with jcoup
with jcoup
Alex.De ??, 2018 -
davelongbottom 13 Sep, 2017 AltLd
Cillian 20 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
Hidden 19 Aug, 2017 -
67hours 8 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
drdave 1 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Ben Proudman
with Ben Proudman
the.proud.man 1 Aug, 2017 Lead β Lead all the hard bits. Big boots on a glorious summer alpine day.
with David hall
Lead all the hard bits. Big boots on a glorious summer alpine day.
with David hall
stratandrew 25 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S Sleet, hail. Snow, wind rain and sun. No pushover in big boots in mixed conditions but the guidebook was right - it will go in any condition. Just dont underestimate hoe much harder it is...we pretty much pitched the lot!
with Shaun Grommell, Philip Jarvis
Sleet, hail. Snow, wind rain and sun. No pushover in big boots in mixed conditions but the guidebook was right - it will go in any condition. Just dont underestimate hoe much harder it is...we pretty much pitched the lot!
with Shaun Grommell, Philip Jarvis
Hidden 21 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S
BenCollis 11 Jul, 2017 Lead
Hidden 7 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S
Hidden 7 Jul, 2017 2nd
DaveLeonard ?Jul, 2017 -
with Emily Roo, Peter McCarthy
with Emily Roo, Peter McCarthy
Ted Stewart 26 Jun, 2017 AltLd
Fentonio 26 Jun, 2017 AltLd
with Ted, Ben Brady
with Ted, Ben Brady
BradDodd 26 Jun, 2017 AltLd Lead 1,3,5. Less like climbing, more like scrambling. 5a pitch in rockfax does not match up with the actual route. Description is wrong and more like 4a.
Lead 1,3,5. Less like climbing, more like scrambling. 5a pitch in rockfax does not match up with the actual route. Description is wrong and more like 4a.
mattdennies 26 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S Pretty crap climbing, more walking and scrambling with a few bits of climbing thrown in. Wouldn't bother again. Think we missed the 5a section, climbed the bolts where we thought the 5a section should be but it certainly wasn't 5a. Had another look when we got down but couldn't see any other bolts.
Pretty crap climbing, more walking and scrambling with a few bits of climbing thrown in. Wouldn't bother again. Think we missed the 5a section, climbed the bolts where we thought the 5a section should be but it certainly wasn't 5a. Had another look when we got down but couldn't see any other bolts.
Hidden 26 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26 Jun, 2017 AltLd
Lucy Honychurch 24 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S
RhysRolfe 24 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S
janegallwey 7 Jan, 2017 Solo O/S
Hidden 28 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
Hidden 10 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S
Hidden 9 Jul, 2015 Solo
slw86 ?Aug, 2014 AltLd
Hidden ?Aug, 2014 AltLd
YellowFellow 2 Sep, 2013 Lead O/S
with Olga
with Olga
Hidden ?Sep, 2013 AltLd
igneouscarl ?Sep, 2010 AltLd O/S
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Voting
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High AD
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Votes cast 4
High 5b
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High 5a
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Votes cast 3
Votes cast 4
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