Rockfax Description
I, 105m, 1 -2 hours. Start where the rock steepens and solidifies. This is just to the left of the ridge crest, on a ledge a couple of metres up and left from the foot of the buttress, at a piece of white tat threaded through a drilled hole.
1) 4a, 18m. Climb an easy slab, step left and follow big flaky holds to two bolts on a ledge.
2) 4b, 20m. Follow the ridge easily from the belay to a small col with a steep 4m corner on the right. Climb this to a sloping ledge with two bolts which, awkwardly enough, are a metre or so apart.
3) 4b, 12m. Take the ramp on the left of the belay to a 5m corner on the right. After climbing this, the belay is 3m further up the ridge on the left.
From here, scramble along the ridge via the odd bolt to where it ends. Drop down left and walk round to the foot of the next pitch, which starts on a slab to the right of a corner.
4) 5a, 18m. The first bolt is hard to spot but it is there, 4m up on the left. Start at the foot of a groove, which you gain via a short slab. Follow this for 8m then step left onto a ledge with another groove above it. Climb this and then the hand-jamming crack and flakes above.
Scramble along the ridge behind and either make a 20m abseil off a metal ring, or continue until the ridge ends after 50m. Come back round onto the Chamonix side and walk to the final pitch, which is 5m onto the far side of a small col. There is an excellent 6a pitch next to the abseil line for those who fancy a bit of tougher climbing. The rock is superb, so hopefully more routes will be bolted on this wall.
5) 4b, 35m. Climb flakes and a vague groove for 15m to a grassy ledge. Follow this left into a grass filled groove which leads to a slab above. The belay is off a single bolt, which also serves as the final belay on Crakoukass (page ยงยงยง). © Rockfax


ClimberDateStyle
BenCollis 11/Jul Lead
Hidden 07/Jul Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Jul 2nd
Ted Stewart 26/Jun AltLd
with Deem
Fentonio 26/Jun AltLd
with Ted, Ben Brady
BradDodd 26/Jun AltLd

Lead 1,3,5. Less like climbing, more like scrambling. 5a pitch in rockfax does not match up with the actual route. Description is wrong and more like 4a.

mattdennies 26/Jun AltLd O/S

Pretty crap climbing, more walking and scrambling with a few bits of climbing thrown in. Wouldn't bother again. Think we missed the 5a section, climbed the bolts where we thought the 5a section should be but it certainly wasn't 5a. Had another look when we got down but couldn't see any other bolts.

Hidden 26/Jun AltLd O/S
dunnyg 26/Jun AltLd

Felt crap when woke up. Ok once at brevent. First on. Two teams arrived within 10 mins of us.

RhysRolfe 24/Jun AltLd O/S
with Lucy H
janegallwey 07/Jan Solo O/S
Hidden 28/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 09/Jul/15 Solo
Marshall ?/Aug/14 AltLd
Hidden ?/Aug/14 AltLd
csalvage ?/Sep/13 AltLd
with Bryan
igneouscarl ?/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
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