Rockfax Description
90m. A fine little route which is easily escapable throughout. Start at the foot of a lichen-covered slab which is invisible until you're right below it.
1) 5a, 15m. Follow the slab to a belay on a block.
2) 5c, 12m. Step across the gap behind the belay to a groove. Getting into it is tricky but staying there is even trickier! Follow it to a slab and climb this to a belay on top of a pinnacle.
Abseil 10m into the gully and belay at the highest point. It is possible to scramble up the first 3m of the next pitch to a belay but the ledge above the gully is more comfortable.
3) 5a, 25m. Climb out of the gully and up the ridge just to the right of the crest to an excellent short corner. Belay above that on a large ledge. In the unlikely event that the route is busy, there is a second belay 3m higher.
4) 5b, 25m. Continue on the right of the ridge crest on superb, positive flakes. When directly under the summit tower, step up to a ledge. Follow this to its right-hand end and swing round in a fantastic position onto the top of the Rébuffat-Terray. Follow this to the summit. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
(aka La Biscant)
Ticklists
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Webster | 17 Jul, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: i guess the step across the gap would be very difficult for the short, but appart from that the route is 5a max imo | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: i guess the step across the gap would be very difficult for the short, but appart from that the route is 5a max imo |
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Trompe l'oeil
Grade: 5c ***
(La Balme de Thuy)