J.G. Trumper, Mike Lewis 21/Sep/1997.
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Roxyclimbs | 19 Apr, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: A thrilling and exciting route all in all on good holds and some nice commiting moves! You can't beat the "in the middle of nowhere" feel the Rhinogs has. The gear that's there is bomber and your spoilt with super grippy rock. Although beware this route has a reputation for eating gear it seems, makes sense with the way quartzite bites, watch your nuts! (below)... Route subject to interpretation, did an alternative start "donkey style" up the flake, then traversed over the slab and rocked over to the first possible belay stance (@~10 metres). Decided to carry on past this. Followed the rock up slightly (chasing gear...) before moving to the outside face. A wicked exposed pitch, good gear throughout with a couple of delicate pinchy moves just below the second notable ledge (slanted i.e. awkward belay). Didn't go to the tree for the second belay as it was too overgrown. Pretty sure we ended up joining onto the last pitch of 'Maes B' as the pitch directly up was too overgrown! Although I do love a bit of gardening from time to time this was just not worth it... 3 nuts (1 DMM offset!), 1 cam, two quickdraws, a sling and several carabiners all removed from the route. Mysterious yellow & red tape was a consistent theme throughout. | ||
Show beta
βeta: A thrilling and exciting route all in all on good holds and some nice commiting moves! You can't beat the "in the middle of nowhere" feel the Rhinogs has. The gear that's there is bomber and your spoilt with super grippy rock. Although beware this route has a reputation for eating gear it seems, makes sense with the way quartzite bites, watch your nuts! (below)... Route subject to interpretation, did an alternative start "donkey style" up the flake, then traversed over the slab and rocked over to the first possible belay stance (@~10 metres). Decided to carry on past this. Followed the rock up slightly (chasing gear...) before moving to the outside face. A wicked exposed pitch, good gear throughout with a couple of delicate pinchy moves just below the second notable ledge (slanted i.e. awkward belay). Didn't go to the tree for the second belay as it was too overgrown. Pretty sure we ended up joining onto the last pitch of 'Maes B' as the pitch directly up was too overgrown! Although I do love a bit of gardening from time to time this was just not worth it... 3 nuts (1 DMM offset!), 1 cam, two quickdraws, a sling and several carabiners all removed from the route. Mysterious yellow & red tape was a consistent theme throughout. |
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Grade: VS 4c ***
(Craig Yr Ysfa)